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Pulling a seized engine.

Doba76

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So I'm pulling the 400 out of my Cordoba as it's dry seized after sitting for 26 years and replacing it with a running one, but as I was working on it last night it occurred to me, what do I do about the torque converter to flexplate bolts as I can spin the engine? How risky is it to take the engine out with the TC still attached? Would it be better to take the engine and trans out together and separate it on the floor as I can pull it straight out?
 
I would pour trans fluid down the cylinders and let sit a day or two and slowly try to break it loose. It will eventually break free, you might get a quarter turn the first time, a little more the next until you are able to spin it 360.
Its a lot easier when the head is off . .
 
I've had everything down the holes that you could think of, from PB Blaster, to ATF, to MMO and she still won't break loose. I've already got a good running 400 ready to go in, just concerned about the torque converter is all. I'm hoping the "bad" engine is just REALLY stuck as I'd like to build a stroker out of it as it'll most likely need a bore anyway lol.
 
So I'm pulling the 400 out of my Cordoba as it's dry seized after sitting for 26 years and replacing it with a running one, but as I was working on it last night it occurred to me, what do I do about the torque converter to flexplate bolts as I can spin the engine? How risky is it to take the engine out with the TC still attached? Would it be better to take the engines on and trans out together and separate it on the floor as I can pull it straight out?

I'm not sure what kind of room the Cordoba engine bay has but I'm thinking you could pull it with it on (just ave to get the right angle to get it out). Just make sure the conv is tightly plugged/capped. It's not a risky job. Again, just have to figure out if you have the clearance for it to come out.
 
How long of a breaker bar are you using? Used a pipe on one that was about 3' long and ready didn't have to lean on it very much and it turned over. That very large harmonic balancer bolt will take a good deal of torque before it breaks but I've never broke one before. Thing is, you will probably need a good impact wrench to get it off when the time comes.
 
You can pull the converter with it, but you should support the transmission when you do so the converter slides out without any weigh to the snout. You don't want to screw up the input or converter snout, or the pump bushing. You may need to pull the water pump too, because the engine will need to move straight forward an extra 4-5" when you slide it off the trans.
 
The oil pan is more likely to catch than the water pump. Remember Cordoba with the shroud and radiator out there should be room to put another engine in there.
 
How long of a breaker bar are you using? Used a pipe on one that was about 3' long and ready didn't have to lean on it very much and it turned over. That very large harmonic balancer bolt will take a good deal of torque before it breaks but I've never broke one before. Thing is, you will probably need a good impact wrench to get it off when the time comes.
Mine's a 3 footer, but I might have been being a bit gentle as I was afraid of breaking the balancer bolt lol. I got the "new" engine for 300 bucks with only 77,000 miles on it and I got to hear it run, so I figured this would be the way to go. Still going to keep the stuck one around, I'd really like to build a stroker out of it someday.
 
You need the cheater for sure but when I was working on another seized motor I could not just pull on it to break it loose, I had to take a a dead blow and keep hitting it until it moved. It finally broke free a little and then a little more until it was free...
 
Mine's a 3 footer, but I might have been being a bit gentle as I was afraid of breaking the balancer bolt lol. I got the "new" engine for 300 bucks with only 77,000 miles on it and I got to hear it run, so I figured this would be the way to go. Still going to keep the stuck one around, I'd really like to build a stroker out of it someday.
Give it a good go and see what it does. It's also difficult to take one apart if it doesn't turn....
 
My thought is the height will be such that when the engine is lifted to get the pan to clear the K frame, the nose of the pump will be headed towards the upper tie bar. No need to pull the trans IMO. Much more mess for what's basically a service replacement job.
 
Leave the converter on the motor pull the trans out first to get it out of the way might as well put a new front seal in why it's out I've stood on a long braker bar the bolt didn't brake give it hell
 
Jack the trans and engine up as far as you can then pull it. Just use a lot of cardboard or rags cause it will make a mess. I would at least replace the front transmission seal too, you can do that whill it's still hanging there. My first big block was a 400 and I really liked it. Good luck
 
Here I go again. The service manual says you can damage pump bushing. If you can't get it to turn I'd take them both out like you said. Does it matter if you break the balancer bolt on a seized engine?
 
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Here I go again. The service manual says you can damage pump bushing. If you can't get to turn I'd take them both out like you said. Does it matter if you break the balancer bolt on a seized engine?
Very good point.
 
The manual is right. If one is not careful, and if one does not support the transmission while it's being separated. The manual says a lot of things that are meant to save the novice trouble. This is not a novice move. But it's not hard, and not dangerous if things are done with care. It will be messy though...
 
Whether the transmission is removed from the car with the engine or left in the car replaceing the 2 lower bell bolts with some 6 inch dowels will help support and guide the transmission during separation. A large pan will contain any fluid lost if placed right.
 
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