Qa1 Kmember

[Pool Fixer]

68 Charger
After 10 years of it sitting collecting dust, My Qa1 kmember is going to be installed. all of the front suspension components as well. I'm not going coil over- retaining stock config but all new and in some cases upgraded parts.

-FF tubular UCA's
-Qa1 tubular LCA's
-Idler
-Pitman
-Inner tie rod ends
-outer tie rod ends
-FF adjustable strut rods
-new 1" torsion bars

I have a B body hellwig antisway bar on the stock K now. While the new LCA's have the mounts for the end links, it looks like the mounting points for the bar on the neww K member won't work. The way the b body bar is bent, the existing k member mounts are almost dead even with the front k member bolts. new K member has those mounts set back further.

I've read that an E body bar works. Looking for a recommendation/part number for a bar that will fit. I looked on youtube and the web and a lot of people who put this kmember in go full balls coil overs. I don't see many installs where they use this K and retain the torsion bars. car is a cruiser so i don't need some super canyon carving bar...

 

[Jerry Hall]

I think the 70-72 B, and 70-74 E body sway bars are the same.

 

[Pool Fixer]

All my new parts are 8-9 years old but I basically put together what qa1 now calls the Level 1 kit. I see the sway bar they list for it in the parts breakdown is #52860 so I ordered that one.

 

[QuebecRollin]

I just did this setup on my 69’ Coronet R/T

 

[Pool Fixer]

Still haven't installed it.. running out of gas, I'm gettin freakin old lol. prob now a winter project. I have a lift in my shop and heat so it's not so bad.
trying to work out a way to do this out the bottom with a 4 post lift. Rollin's pic has me a little rejuvinated though. I did get 2" drop spindles, new old stock ball joints, and the proper fitting qa1 sway bar so I'm all ready to go as far as parts.

 

[QuebecRollin]

Glad I brought your excitement level back up a notch.
On the 4-post you are going to have to get the front lifted off the suspension regardless. You will probably need a cross beam to hang the engine and the rest won’t be a huge deal.

I pre-assembled everything including the brakes and steering parts.
In my situation I also bolted the engine and trans to the K-member and put it all in from the bottom.

I have 2-post lifts and a bobcat with forks. It is also a fresh build that has a new motor/trans so I had a little more going on than you do.

If you get the front of the car high enough off the deck of the lift and the engine hung from above I don’t think it will be a big deal to slip the stock front end out and the new one back in.

 

[Pool Fixer]

Glad I brought your excitement level back up a notch.
On the 4-post you are going to have to get the front lifted off the suspension regardless. You will probably need a cross beam to hang the engine and the rest won’t be a huge deal.

I pre-assembled everything including the brakes and steering parts.
In my situation I also bolted the engine and trans to the K-member and put it all in from the bottom.

I have 2-post lifts and a bobcat with forks. It is also a fresh build that has a new motor/trans so I had a little more going on than you do.

If you get the front of the car high enough off the deck of the lift and the engine hung from above I don’t think it will be a big deal to slip the stock front end out and the new one back in.

what I’m thinking is exactly what you are saying. Hold the engine up with a beam across shock towers. I’ve seen this done in a couple of you tube videos of this swap. Back car into lift up to rear of kframe. Tie down rear end with chain/HD straps. This all taking place at work and I have a fork lift too. I also plan on assembling most of it since I have all new parts