QA1 Tubular K Member

[robinsonwr]

Guys,
I have almost completed the rear suspension of my 1966 Satellite. Now I am looking toward the front of the car. Are any of you running the QA1 K member? Is there any real weight savings? What are your thoughts on using this component on a designated street car?

I was thinking about purchasing the following major components for the ole 66' Sat:
QA1 K member
QA1 Lower Control Arms
QA1 Upper Control Arms
90/10 or three way adjustable shocks
MP .920 torsion bars
Disc Brake Conversion
Manual Steering box, (have one on 67' donor car, "maybe")

 

[wedge69]

I am useing there upper and lower control arms. I would be useing there K member also But I have already bult a custome one for the car. I would recomend it as it is Strong and alot litter than stock for sure ! Very good tech support and well known company to deal with also.

 

[robinsonwr]

It looks like the QA1 K Member weighs 18.5lbs. Does anyone know what an OEM 66-70 K member weighs?

 

[eagleone1983]

a heck of a lot more than that. I don't know the exact weight but it isn't 20lbs. If I were to guess I'd say probably double.

 

[robinsonwr]

a heck of a lot more than that. I don't know the exact weight but it isn't 20lbs. If I were to guess I'd say probably double.

I think 20lbs would be a great weights savings off the front of the vehicle. Probably another 5-8lbs for changing from power steering to manual. We will not even mention the weight savings for aluminum intake, aluminum water pump housing, aluminum heads, and headers. The engine components conservatively have a weight savings of 70-100lbs, what do you think?

 

[71charger_fan]

I put in the whole kit. The upper control arms have been re-engineered since, which is good as I never liked them. I'm redoing the car again and reusing everything but the UCAs. Instead, I bought a set of Hotchkis this time around.

 

[Budnicks]

sounds like you have a good plan, I've recently purchased the new QA1 K-member for my 68 RR project {still need to install, I have other irons in the fire right now, will install this late spring or probably summer}, will be using a Capps Auto. tubular control arms & SPC fully adjustable UCA's, with Capps Auto. adj. Dynamic strut-rods, Unisteer Rack & Pinion {I wouldn't recommend}... I've run the old Capps Automotive stuff, on a few cars now, Capps is who is the company QA1 purchased a while back, that use to make them exclusively, it was their original design... Mine have worked well on the street/strip app., the complete front end suspension weight savings depending on steering box size of sway bar, torsion bar sizes etc. is "about something like realistically 50#'s total weight savings over all", compared to the stock stamped steel OEM stuff IIRC {don't quote me on that}, I never weighed just the suspension change or just the K-member, or just the CA's... more than a 20# savings thou, especially with all the tubular stuff... The stamped CA's are about a wash as far as weight differences, just slightly lighter, but way better for adjustability ride height changes, caster & camber changes, all for better handling... I also moved the battery to the pass side trunk to help weight transfer & distribution, also a bunch of aluminum parts too, intake, water pump housing, radiator, electric w-pump & fans, over 200#+ off the nose... much better front to rear weight bias, doesn't hurt... Good luck with your 66 Satty suspension project

 

[robinsonwr]

sounds like you have a good plan, I've recently purchased the new QA1 K-member for my 68 RR project {still need to install, I have other irons in the fire right now, will install this late spring or probably summer}, will be using a Capps Auto. tubular control arms & SPC fully adjustable UCA's, with Capps Auto. adj. Dynamic strut-rods, Unisteer Rack & Pinion {I wouldn't recommend}... I've run the old Capps Automotive stuff, on a few cars now, Capps is who is the company QA1 purchased a while back, that use to make them exclusively, it was their original design... Mine have worked well on the street/strip app., the complete front end suspension weight savings depending on steering box size of sway bar, torsion bar sizes etc. is "about something like realistically 50#'s total weight savings over all", compared to the stock stamped steel OEM stuff IIRC {don't quote me on that}, I never weighed just the suspension change or just the K-member, or just the CA's... more than a 20# savings thou, especially with all the tubular stuff... The stamped CA's are about a wash as far as weight differences, just slightly lighter, but way better for adjustability ride height changes, caster & camber changes, all for better handling... I also moved the battery to the pass side trunk to help weight transfer & distribution, also a bunch of aluminum parts too, intake, water pump housing, radiator, electric w-pump & fans, over 200#+ off the nose... much better front to rear weight bias, doesn't hurt... Good luck with your 66 Satty suspension project

Budnicks,
I sure appreciate the input. I am hoping with all the little weight savings tactics the car may get down to a curb weight 3500-3600lbs and still look stock. I will be moving the battery to trunk in the future. I am not planning on running a front sway bar as of right now but that may change in the future. The drag racer in me says no to the sway bar. You know what I mean.

- - - Updated - - -

View attachment 183152

I put in the whole kit. The upper control arms have been re-engineered since, which is good as I never liked them. I'm redoing the car again and reusing everything but the UCAs. Instead, I bought a set of Hotchkis this time around.

Wow, that sure does look sweet. Only way it would look better is to be under my 66' Sat.

 

[Budnicks]

weight loss is a good thing, I also have lighter alum. wheels, 6061 alum. 3" driveshaft {still not installed}, ProCar Elite 1100 bucket seats, saved something like 50#'s there {stock bench weighed 111#'s}, then fiberglass front & rear bumpers w-alum. brackets {not installed yet}, maybe 40#'s savings & an A12 lift off hood, maybe another 50#'s on mine too, I think I've lost about, guessing 400-425#'s in total MAX, but added back some weight with, heavy sway bars 1-3/8" front & 1" rear {disconnect front at the track} & sub-frame connectors, 3" exhaust, 6bbl carbs... probably bring the savings back to about 300#'s {guessing}... will be adding a CalTracs, also custom made bolt-in 4pt. roll bar too down the road, 7075 alum. drive shaft safety loop weights almost nothing, other small things to help stiffen the car for handling & safety, further reducing the weight savings, but I will have a far better weight distribution, far better handling, lower center of gravity now, it will be even better when it's finally done... I'm not going to, but you could go even farther, with fiberglass doors & trunk lid, save another 100#'s maybe... Even going to a coil over suspension {ladders or 4 link} compared to the heavy leafs, or heavy torsion bars, replaced with coil over fronts, could save even some more weight maybe another 100#'s... depends on how light you want to go, it's all about power to weight ratio, sometimes the weight loss/redistributed is a great way to gain seat of the pants feel & noticeably better performance too, especially on these heavy cars...

 

[robinsonwr]

I thought about a bolt on fiberglass hood. I even thought about fiberglass bumpers and have them overlaid with chrome vinyl wrap. Did you make the aluminum bumper brackets yourself? I have the weld in subframe connectors along with torque boxes.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Glad I found this thread, I was considering buying the QA1 k-frame but have now pretty much decided on fabricating my own next winter. Hey Wedge69, you have any pics of yours? It'd be cool to see what you came up with.

And another good point brought up with the power to weight ratio, planning on putting my car on a serious diet next winter as well. Probably going to take a shot at molding my own decklid, maybe hood, and probably bumpers now that you brought up the chrome vinyl wrap- great idea! the main thing that was keeping me away from fiberglass bumpers was that I didn't like the idea of body color bumpers on my car but that would be a cool way to go. After all the different things I have planned, if I can get my Charger down to 3,400 or less I would be happy as hell haha

 

[robinsonwr]

Glad I found this thread, I was considering buying the QA1 k-frame but have now pretty much decided on fabricating my own next winter. Hey Wedge69, you have any pics of yours? It'd be cool to see what you came up with.

And another good point brought up with the power to weight ratio, planning on putting my car on a serious diet next winter as well. Probably going to take a shot at molding my own decklid, maybe hood, and probably bumpers now that you brought up the chrome vinyl wrap- great idea! the main thing that was keeping me away from fiberglass bumpers was that I didn't like the idea of body color bumpers on my car but that would be a cool way to go. After all the different things I have planned, if I can get my Charger down to 3,400 or less I would be happy as hell haha

Mr. Speedfreak,
The chrome wrap idea came to me after seeing entire cars being wrapped with chrome vinyl. I watched a few videos on the application of the product. It looks as if the process is time consuming and a little tedious but very doable. I was going to find someone in my area to apply the product for me. I thought about using some tubing to reinforce week areas of the bumper to keep it from sagging. Budnicks said he had made aluminum brackets for his fiberglass bumpers. I really wanted a fiberglass hood but I have not found anyone that makes a complete bolt on hood for my car.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Yeah that's a great idea! I've seen those cars too and from what I've seen the bumpers should end up looking just like chromed steel ones, but a fraction of the weight haha.

That reminds me, not sure where you'll be getting your fiberglass panels, but before (if) you order from Unlimited make sure you take a good hard look at their reputation and buy at your own risk. There's a lot of people out their complaining about their customer service and quality control.

Seems like a pretty huge project, but I was considering making my own fiberglass hood based off a mold of my stock steel one. I'd be building a completely separate mold (not just laid on top of a donor hood), but for what it's worth here's the DIY article that got me thinking about giving it a shot:
http://midwestattachments.com/hood.htm

 

[Budnicks]

Yeah that's a great idea! I've seen those cars too and from what I've seen the bumpers should end up looking just like chromed steel ones, but a fraction of the weight haha.

That reminds me, not sure where you'll be getting your fiberglass panels, but before (if) you order from Unlimited make sure you take a good hard look at their reputation and buy at your own risk. There's a lot of people out their complaining about their customer service and quality control.

The last bumpers I got from Unlimited Fiberglass Products, last year, they were utterly crappy workmanship, crooked cuts, holes for the marker lights were hacked out, poor/very ruff/porous finish, I would NOT recommend them any more at all, years ago they weren't like they are now... IMHFO quality control has gone to total crap... It's all stuff I can fix, but I should NOT have had too either... I was intending on modifying them anyway, but If your a business owner, you shouldn't let product go out the door the way my bumpers came...

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Wow sucks to hear you got stiffed by them, too, Bud. Screw all that, I'll just mold my own off my original bumpers haha that's pretty crappy business. Plus pretty much any racing/pro-touring forum is lit up with people saying the exact same thing as you. What did you do to reinforce the bumpers exactly?

 

[cbodybob]

Ok I can help on this one. I have a 69 Satellite dedicated bracket car. I did many of these changes to my car & recored the weights & results. Here go's
Stock drive shaft with yokes & small u joints 18 #s
p/s pump drained of fluid 11.5 #s
p/s hoses .5#s
p/s gear box 31 #s
pitman arm 2 #s
Flaming River steel manual box 16.1 ratio 17 #s
stock small block starter 15 #s
Mopar Perf mini starter 8 #s
stock rear bumper 35#s
fiberglass rear bumber 5#s
both rear 1/4 glass 10#s total
lexan 1/4 glass 5#s
both rear 1/4 glass regulators 16#s
drilled out both front glass regulators 4 #s total
drilled out 2 front bumper brackets 2#s total
stock radiator 22#s
aluminum radiator 15#s
fiberglass MAS 6 barrel hood pin on saved 40#s
stock hood hinges 10#s
drilled out e brake 1.5 #s
removed stock dash & made my own custom saved 8#s
I did many more things that saved a pound here & an ounce there. too much to list.
I have scalled the car at several tracks & it falls between 2940 & 2960 without driver
steel head 318/904 8/34 rear with spool

 

[robinsonwr]

Yeah that's a great idea! I've seen those cars too and from what I've seen the bumpers should end up looking just like chromed steel ones, but a fraction of the weight haha.

That reminds me, not sure where you'll be getting your fiberglass panels, but before (if) you order from Unlimited make sure you take a good hard look at their reputation and buy at your own risk. There's a lot of people out their complaining about their customer service and quality control.

Seems like a pretty huge project, but I was considering making my own fiberglass hood based off a mold of my stock steel one. I'd be building a completely separate mold (not just laid on top of a donor hood), but for what it's worth here's the DIY article that got me thinking about giving it a shot:
http://midwestattachments.com/hood.htm

I haven't bought anything from Unlimited in years. I have purchased from VFN and US Body Source though. I have been contemplating Sled City Glass. They seem to have alot of stuff for our vehicles. I cannot remember the name of the company but I have been looking at their 66-67 RO23 scoop.

 

[wedge69]

I will try and get some pics this weekend of my front K frame and post it here for you SpeedFreak.
All and all weight saveing is a good thing AS Long as you don't forget Strienght !!
I also was talking to a guy up in NY that said his buddy was Chrome Plateing fiberglass.
I will get ahold of him and see if I can get some more info and a pic or two.

 

[71charger_fan]

QA1 has added attachment points for sway bar brackets that CAP didn't have, and I had to have welded in, when I bought mine.

 

[wedge69]

Here is my own set up I made. It's not painted yet as I am haveing it powder coated after the mock up in finished. It works well so far . Note the torque strut's to the motor mount pad's. Keeps the whole front end tied in as one.
There is one on both sides but hard to see in the pic the right one.