Question about working on dash.

[jmbass98]

Fairly new to this. But I want to start working on my gauge cluster and dash (fixing speedometer light, upgrading voltage limiter, messing around with radio [adding speakers or even replacing the radio], replacing ignition switch) mainly.

Can I do all of those things without removing the dash entirely (which if I'm correct, requires pulling the windshield)? I really want to avoid this.

 

[440 4 speed]

Those will come out with the dash still in the car.

 

[JimCoronette]

Skinny forearms and fingers makes it much easier, but yes, it can all be done with the dash in place.

Maybe you already know, but 66-7 Charger dash lighting is different than all the rest.

 

[jmbass98]

And I have both... cool, thanks guys.

 

[Hilljack68]

Good question. Glad you could get an answer. Now, if I may divert the question just slightly... Can the same be done on a 68 Coronet without yanking the dash??

 

[WesleyK]

Good question. Glad you could get an answer. Now, if I may divert the question just slightly... Can the same be done on a 68 Coronet without yanking the dash??

Radio and ignition switch stuff ,yes. Some dash bulbs are reachable with previously mentioned skinny arms and long fingers. Same goes for the voltage meter. Most of the bulbs, at least on a rallye dash are along the top of the cluster. If you have a/c it'll be a little more crowded. I'm installing the dash in my 68 Bee as we speak and I did everything I could before I put it in. Its getting crowded real quick behind the dash.

 

[jmbass98]

Skinny forearms and fingers makes it much easier, but yes, it can all be done with the dash in place.

Maybe you already know, but 66-7 Charger dash lighting is different than all the rest.

Also yes I am aware of the dash lighting being EL on Chargers. My speedo light and tach arm light do not function, but all others do (the speedo light actually works sometimes for like 3 seconds before fading)... This sound like a simple fix?

 

[jmbass98]

Also... I read a lot about bypassing ammeter, upgrading voltage limiter, etc.. Can I get a quick laymen's rundown on what these things mean? Are they simple procedures that I can do?

 

[Mike67]

You can pull the instrument cluster and it will give you access to everything without having to lay on your back.
It will only come out and go back in one way so be careful. You could damage the circuit board.

 

[Ron H]

Also... I read a lot about bypassing ammeter, upgrading voltage limiter, etc.. Can I get a quick laymen's rundown on what these things mean? Are they simple procedures that I can do?

There's been a TON of posts on this with expert advice, go to forums under electrical...

 

[jmbass98]

Okay I will, thank you.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your doing a lot of working under the dash might what to remove front seat, easy if a bucket seat. Check for build under carpet while your there. On bench seat I unbolt it and move it halfway out passengers door.

 

[gibber]

Hi,

I have a small business rebuilding the instrument clusters in the First Gen Chargers, www.thegaugedoc.com. I've done well over 600 dash restorations in the 10 plus years I've had my business open, about 90 percent have been 66/67 Chargers. To answer a couple of you questions:

The dash can be removed without too much trouble once you drop the steering wheel. I have instructions on my website on how to remove the dash.

The face connector for the EL uses conductive silver epoxy. DO NOT use solder as it will ruin the EL layer.

In order to upgrade the voltage limiter you would first need to remove or disable the points style limiter inside your fuel gauge.

To upgrade the ammeter requires soldering the terminals from the inside. Not for the faint of heart...

Hope that helps,

Mark

 

[Skatpak]

Hi Mark. Where does a person get conductive silver epoxy for the el parts on a 66 charger?

 

[Fran Blacker]

If this isn't what you google it. https://www.amazon.com/Electrically-Conductive-Adhesive-Temperature-AA-DUCT/dp/B00EPYCIGQ

 

[Skatpak]

If this isn't what you google it. https://www.amazon.com/Electrically-Conductive-Adhesive-Temperature-AA-DUCT/dp/B00EPYCIGQ

Thank you. Where do you apply this exactly when repairing the el lighting?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Thank you. Where do you apply this exactly when repairing the el lighting?

I just answered where to get it. The #13 posts may help where to use it. 66/67 electro luminescent gauges I know zero about.

 

[Skatpak]

I just answered where to get it. The #1 and #13 posts may help where to use it. 66/67 electro luminescent gauges I know zero about.

Thank you,

 

[Skatpak]

I must be a idiot, I see a ton of stuff on el I'm not sure I understand how to find #1 and #13, I have typed in every possible combination of anything el related and electrical and don't see those specific posts,
Any recommendations on a soldiering gun or torch to repair the el power pack, it needs to get hot enough to melt the solder off the case to replace the capacitor. My gun does not get hot enough.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Sorry those are post numbers in this thread. This is post #20. There are 20 posts to a page, so next post will start page 2 And will be post#21. See your new I didn't see that. Start at top of page 1 the guy who posted #13 works on those gauges.
Note there is a web address in high lighted in those two posts click on it.. thegaugedoc.com

I screwed up gibber post #13 is the one to look at.