Race season is coming. It's scramble time

[dvw]

How are you preparing for the season? Our season starts 1 month from today. We will be on vacation for a week this month, so only 3 weeks to get it done. Last year my 1000+ pass used T&D rockers developed a crack in one rocker. Over the winter T&D made a new set. Cam has over .825 " lift on the intake. Springs have 300 runs. The fuel pump that failed last year has been rebuilt. Alternator that kept failing regulators has been repaired. Duct for the trans cooler was done over the winter to address temp issues on round robin runs. Fuel pump was an easy swap as the spare is the same. Pulled the trans shield to swap the filter and fluid. All looked good. Adjusted the KD band and checked the shift cable adjustments at the same time. Hopefully repaired a small nagging drip at the park cable while I was there. Rewired the output cable from the alternator all the way to the battery. My thought was maybe flyback from when the two high amp fans (on the same power feed last year) when shut down were spiking the regulator. Also swapped the two fans so the left fan is the primary when using only one fan. There is a better path for air flow in the enginge compartment on the left. Reconnected the wire that was left off during the intitial alternator upgrade last year. Now the headlights work. The car has a pretty agresive cam, 285/296 .830"/.810". So lah is checked every 20-25 passes. Springs checked 2-3 times a season. Tested all the existing valve springs. On the car, and off the car. Learning a lot about testers. As it turns out all but one were with in spec. However I have a second set with 200 runs on them. They all tested about 25-30 lbs better than spec. Since the rockers were already off it wasn't that big a deal to swap them. The only issue is the published coil bind is 1.100". The intakes really need 1.080" to have .050" coil bind. So each spring has to be fully compressed and measured. All coil bind tighter than spec. The tightest were used on the intakes. The exhaust only lifts .800" so 1.100" will work. Each spring was pressure tested both on the bench and with the on the car tester. Since both read slightly different now I know what the true number is. That will make monitering pressures more accurate. During the swap 2 of the 8 rocker shafts were worn. So have to wait for them to complete the repair.Took about 30 minutes to inspect the underside of the car. Welds, heims, lines, tires. all looks great. Have 20 events planned for this season wit hsome 10 hours one way. Being it runs close to 150 It's got to be safe and reliable. Bought a Necks Gen head/neck device also. We will see if this 70 year old can turn on some win lights.
Doug

 

[padam]

I’ve really been slacking this winter.

I got the battery situation handled.

I have to get under there for a clutch change.
I will have to get the flywheel ground, but my guy does it while I wait.
I want to open up the adjustment hole in the bellhousing also, make adjustments a little quicker and easier. I got a new style clutch, so I will have a learning curve.

I have a bad feeling I may be losing a cam lobe, so I have to get in there and check that.

Most of the little things I wanted to do may have to wait another season lol.

I got a new (used) motorhome that I can tow my trailer with, and it needs completely checked out and setup with a brake controller.

 

[Darter6]

Good luck to all you Racers out there this season !

 

[Fran Blacker]

You guys show that there's more than showing up at the track to win.

 

[malex]

My preparation for the season usually starts at the end of the previous season as I’m sure it does for most of us. I didn’t have any planned changes to start with but things came up..
The fuel cell mounts ended up being modified for easier servicing of the 100 micron fuel filter. While in the trunk I ended up re fabricating one battery box to the same dimensions as the other. That led to cleaning up the rear wiring harness in the trunk which included removal of #8 gauge cable that previously ran up to the alternator that no longer exists. Once I was happy with the trunk area I got looking around the interior. Noticed that the top of the rear seat was getting quite sun faded and that’s when all the seats came out. They went back into place with a fresh coat of SEM and looking like new. While the seats were out the top of dash mounted tach got relocated to mid dash. The reverse lights and interior fan toggle switches also found a new home on the lower rear of the shifter riser. The decision to lower the tach is due to the air shifter and digital delay box upgrade. That pretty much takes care of off season changes. Routine stuff included Engine & Trans oil & filter changes. Also noticed a few drops of coolant on the floor over time and that led to the motor plate coming off and resealed to the block. It probably only required the water pump bolts snugged up but I had all winter so.. Had all the wheels off and a close inspection of - everything, ended up finding a right rear caliper lock nut missing. WTH. A good find. Also serviced the vacuum pump, the canister was clean & dry. The baffle that was added into the valve cover is doing it’s job. Valve lash checked, no changes req’d - good news. High speed air bleeds checked & cleaned and something a guy needs to check frequently. And just the other day now I’ve lowered the front ride height 5/8”, checked camber and tow-in with a minor adjustment. About the biggest change for this season will be the rear tire size. Previously running 29.5/11.5W-15’s. New size: 30.5/10.5W-15’s. Less tread width, a touch taller and slightly harder compound. Looking forward to a good season.

Well of course there’s a few pics!

Trunk area changes made in off season


Seats freshened up. Top of rear seat bleached out from years of sun exposure at the track.


Tach lowered to mid dash and some switch relocating.


Ride height, strg alignment check.


New tire size for ‘25

 

[Budnicks]

My preparation for the season usually starts at the end of the previous season as I’m sure it does for most of us. I didn’t have any planned changes to start with but things came up..
The fuel cell mounts ended up being modified for easier servicing of the 100 micron fuel filter. While in the trunk I ended up re fabricating one battery box to the same dimensions as the other. That led to cleaning up the rear wiring harness in the trunk which included removal of #8 gauge cable that previously ran up to the alternator that no longer exists. Once I was happy with the trunk area I got looking around the interior. Noticed that the top of the rear seat was getting quite sun faded and that’s when all the seats came out. They went back into place with a fresh coat of SEM and looking like new. While the seats were out the top of dash mounted tach got relocated to mid dash. The reverse lights and interior fan toggle switches also found a new home on the lower rear of the shifter riser. The decision to lower the tach is due to the air shifter and digital delay box upgrade. That pretty much takes care of off season changes. Routine stuff included Engine & Trans oil & filter changes. Also noticed a few drops of coolant on the floor over time and that led to the motor plate coming off and resealed to the block. It probably only required the water pump bolts snugged up but I had all winter so.. Had all the wheels off and a close inspection of - everything, ended up finding a right rear caliper lock nut missing. WTH. A good find. Also serviced the vacuum pump, the canister was clean & dry. The baffle that was added into the valve cover is doing it’s job. Valve lash checked, no changes req’d - good news. High speed air bleeds checked & cleaned and something a guy needs to check frequently. And just the other day now I’ve lowered the front ride height 5/8”, checked camber and tow-in with a minor adjustment. About the biggest change for this season will be the rear tire size. Previously running 29.5/11.5W-15’s. New size: 30.5/10.5W-15’s. Less tread width, a touch taller and slightly harder compound. Looking forward to a good season.

Well of course there’s a few pics!

Trunk area changes made in off season
View attachment 1831660

Seats freshened up. Top of rear seat bleached out from years of sun exposure at the track.
View attachment 1831659

Tach lowered to mid dash and some switch relocating.
View attachment 1831662

Ride height, strg alignment check.
View attachment 1831658

New tire size for ‘25
View attachment 1831667

Beautiful as always, nice job & write up...
Good luck this coming season

may all 'the race-days' be mineshaft air & slight overcast,
not too hot not too cold

 

[Darter6]

Beautiful as always

X10 !! Sooo good looking and neat as a pin...

 

[padam]

I could make a hobby out of cleaning up my garage.

 

[dvw]

Pretty much wrapped up. Waiting for the rocker shafts which should be here Wednesday. Took the time to clean up the bottom. Not to shabby for 13 years and 1000+ passes.
Doug

 

[malex]

Pretty much wrapped up. Waiting for the rocker shafts which should be here Wednesday. Took the time to clean up the bottom. Not to shabby for 13 years and 1000+ passes.
Doug

View attachment 1832090

Looks fantastic and a very winning car. I presume those are Hedman Headers? And I notice your trans cooler nicely tucked under there. Any difference in trans temp there vs in front of the rad? Good luck this year!

 

[dvw]

That's actually the old trans cooler location. Headers are Hooker Super Comp 2 1/8". Here's the new cooler location and duct.
Doug

 

[malex]

That's actually the old trans cooler location. Headers are Hooker Super Comp 2 1/8". Here's the new cooler location and duct.
Doug

View attachment 1832389

View attachment 1832390

View attachment 1832391

Wow is that impressive! Quality methodical workmanship that matches the entire car.
I’d bet my pension cheque that the trans temp is also lower in this spot. In fact with it not against the rad your engine temp is likely lower too.

 

[peabodyracin]

You guys never cease to amaze me with your attention to detail. I’ve still got pistons and rods to install in the fresh 440 block, just got valve springs for the new aftermarket aluminum heads, finally found my extra windage tray misplaced last fall. Then to pull the trusty 426 from the car, remove cam/lifters and reinstall in the 440 and drop that back in the car. Just remembered I still need to order new seat belt. Current expired last fall. Shoot, still need to order head gaskets and bolts and a lightweight starter. Glad I typed this all as it jogged my feeble brain. Good luck everyone!

 

[malex]

You guys never cease to amaze me with your attention to detail. I’ve still got pistons and rods to install in the fresh 440 block, just got valve springs for the new aftermarket aluminum heads, finally found my extra windage tray misplaced last fall. Then to pull the trusty 426 from the car, remove cam/lifters and reinstall in the 440 and drop that back in the car. Just remembered I still need to order new seat belt. Current expired last fall. Shoot, still need to order head gaskets and bolts and a lightweight starter. Glad I typed this all as it jogged my feeble brain. Good luck everyone!

——
Sometimes anality is better known as attention to detail, or OCD, at least in my case haha. Good luck to you as well on your upcoming assembly.

 

[RonnieK]

How are you preparing for the season? Our season starts 1 month from today. We will be on vacation for a week this month, so only 3 weeks to get it done. Last year my 1000+ pass used T&D rockers developed a crack in one rocker. Over the winter T&D made a new set. Cam has over .825 " lift on the intake. Springs have 300 runs. The fuel pump that failed last year has been rebuilt. Alternator that kept failing regulators has been repaired. Duct for the trans cooler was done over the winter to address temp issues on round robin runs. Fuel pump was an easy swap as the spare is the same. Pulled the trans shield to swap the filter and fluid. All looked good. Adjusted the KD band and checked the shift cable adjustments at the same time. Hopefully repaired a small nagging drip at the park cable while I was there. Rewired the output cable from the alternator all the way to the battery. My thought was maybe flyback from when the two high amp fans (on the same power feed last year) when shut down were spiking the regulator. Also swapped the two fans so the left fan is the primary when using only one fan. There is a better path for air flow in the enginge compartment on the left. Reconnected the wire that was left off during the intitial alternator upgrade last year. Now the headlights work. The car has a pretty agresive cam, 285/296 .830"/.810". So lah is checked every 20-25 passes. Springs checked 2-3 times a season. Tested all the existing valve springs. On the car, and off the car. Learning a lot about testers. As it turns out all but one were with in spec. However I have a second set with 200 runs on them. They all tested about 25-30 lbs better than spec. Since the rockers were already off it wasn't that big a deal to swap them. The only issue is the published coil bind is 1.100". The intakes really need 1.080" to have .050" coil bind. So each spring has to be fully compressed and measured. All coil bind tighter than spec. The tightest were used on the intakes. The exhaust only lifts .800" so 1.100" will work. Each spring was pressure tested both on the bench and with the on the car tester. Since both read slightly different now I know what the true number is. That will make monitering pressures more accurate. During the swap 2 of the 8 rocker shafts were worn. So have to wait for them to complete the repair.Took about 30 minutes to inspect the underside of the car. Welds, heims, lines, tires. all looks great. Have 20 events planned for this season wit hsome 10 hours one way. Being it runs close to 150 It's got to be safe and reliable. Bought a Necks Gen head/neck device also. We will see if this 70 year old can turn on some win lights.
Doug

The amount of work I did this winter I felt was very productive.

New paint and cleaner interior on my Charger. New shifter (PPP) and mount. New dash. Completely rewired. New converter. New tach. Prepping for a cage next year.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Meanwhile I am just trying to keep up with the traffic on the highways. Most everything is faster than us.
Good luck to you guys going to the drag strip. Hope it is a good year for you.

 

[malex]

The amount of work I did this winter I felt was very productive.

New paint and cleaner interior on my Charger. New shifter (PPP) and mount. New dash. Completely rewired. New converter. New tach. Prepping for a cage next year.

View attachment 1832472

You’ll like that new shifter.

 

[RonnieK]

The amount of work I did this winter I felt was very productive.

New paint and cleaner interior on my Charger. New shifter (PPP) and mount. New dash. Completely rewired. New converter. New tach. Prepping for a cage next year.

View attachment 1832472

Added a new fiberglass hood too. Six pack scoop. Starting its diet

You’ll like that new shifter.

I’m excited for it. We’ve run a PPP autoshift on my Dad’s Daytona for years now. I needed a rear entry after burning up a bunch of cables with my old hurst.

 

[malex]

Added a new fiberglass hood too. Six pack scoop. Starting its diet

I’m excited for it. We’ve run a PPP autoshift on my Dad’s Daytona for years now. I needed a rear entry after burning up a bunch of cables with my old hurst.

Oh bummer, that used to happen to me too but I run the cable around the right side of the trans now. A 5’ cable will work with a front exit shifter but 6’ cable is best.

 

[RonnieK]

Oh bummer, that used to happen to me too but I run the cable around the right side of the trans now. A 5’ cable will work with a front exit shifter but 6’ cable is best.

View attachment 1832494

I ran mine similar with heat guards and built a custom housing that went between it and the header. Still ruined two cables so finally decided it was time to switch. Wish I would’ve coated these hesders like yours. You got a nice setup!