Radiator Upgrade

[Bigal75]

Am I right to think that I require a rad upgrade when at idle the engine cools fine however when driving the temp just slowly rises?

I'm using a clutch fan and shroud factory rad (large). Tried 2 thermostat. Flushed and changed the coolant. Engine is a 572 Hemi with locked timing at 34.

I'm looking at a new Griffin Rad.

Thoughts?

 

[HYRDGOON]

I'm rally happy with my Wizard set-up and they were top notch guys to deal with. Just call them and tell them engine/horsepower and what it's going in and they'll build to suit what you need. Upgraded core size or a integrated fan package made to measure if necessary.

 

[Bigal75]

Wizard? Never heard of them. I'll check it out.

 

[WileERobby]

Wizard? Never heard of them. I'll check it out.

I've used a number of different aluminum radiators over the years.. I picked one up by Wizard at Carlisle for my personal car.. great fit, good price, works great !

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I would think at idle would be hotter...if you do a rad upgrade you can't go wrong with a Griffin. I have one and everyone I know running one loves it. Get a 2 row with 1.25" diameter tubes. A 22" with fixed steel fan and no shroud and 160F stat keeps my mild 451 at 170-180 around town and on highway, 190-200 at idle

- - - Updated - - -

Check your hoses too and make sure they're not collapsing

 

[Bigal75]

Right now my idle is at 175 or so. Mechanical clutch fan with shroud. I drive around and it will slowly climb...I've only let it climb to 210. Don't want to risk anything more...

Hoses are fine and I still have the spring in the lower hose.

 

[Dennis H]

The 26" factory copper in the 440 was repaired with a 4 row core. No problem now at idle and runs 175 on freeway with 180 Stant Superstat. I feel no need to deviate from Ma Mopar.

 

[GetX'd]

I have the 440 blown to 494 and triple cored the factory radiator. Runs cool and calm. As the guy above says - no need to fool with mother mopar. Clutch fan and the whole bit. So far so good.

 

[Bigal75]

Yeah but I believe my rad is the 440 one (67 RT) but I'm pretty sure it's only a 2 core. Now that I think about it, it was getting quite warm with the 440 in there as well. I'm sure something is going on with my stock rad.

 

[The Horvaths]

Have you checked the timing advance curve?

 

[Bigal75]

Locked at 34. So there's no curve

 

[Hemirunner]

I had that problem and it turned out to be a bad clutch on the fan. Same engine as you. Literally. LOL

 

[Bigal75]

I had that problem and it turned out to be a bad clutch on the fan. Same engine as you. Literally. LOL

Interesting. I'll have to look into that a bit more.

 

[Dennis H]

Clutch was bad on mine too, but only noticed at idle. (Harry Reid 5 minute traffic lights in Reno - @ 107 degrees and 5 thousand feet) A good shop can convert to a 3 or 4 row. Shroud needed. Superstat. Mancini Billet or similar neck.

 

[Bigal75]

Just checked the clutch for the fan. Sometimes it has proper resistance and then it free wheels. ..so I pulled the fan and clutch and it's leaking all the silicone oil out the front...just ordered a new one. Could it be so simple....lol

 

[Dennis H]

Am I right to think that I require a rad upgrade when at idle the engine cools fine however when driving the temp just slowly rises?

I'm using a clutch fan and shroud factory rad (large). Tried 2 thermostat. Flushed and changed the coolant. Engine is a 572 Hemi with locked timing at 34.

I'm looking at a new Griffin Rad.

Thoughts?

At idle, engine cools fine.

 

[Bigal75]

At idle, engine cools fine.

Yep, exactly.

 

[65RoadRacer]

I was having rising temps with a mechanical fan and went to a 3300 cfm electric fan. That helped more at idle, but I was seeing higher temps at certain times and it was just too much when I started seeing 210-220. I recently swapped in a Be Cool unit (with 160º t-stat) and my regular temperatures are now in the 170-180 range all the time, running cooler when it's not hot outside. It was the best investment I have made, and though it was pricey I'm very happy with it.

Incidentally, I compared costs of buying all the components separately (radiator, overflow, cooling fans, relays, wiring, etc.) and the price wasn't that much more - about $200-300. But the peace of mind having a system that doesn't get over 185º now is worth it.

 

[Dennis H]

Lots of talk about fans. Replacing the cheap knock-off clutch with a quality Hayden was a good move for me. When a car heats up when moving, its NOT the fan.

 

[Hemirunner]

I've used or seen everything under the sun used for cooling system and the best setup I've found is the factory HD 26" radiators with the proper shroud and a good quality 7 blade clutch fan. Lots of guys try to reinvent the wheel on this one and fail. I won't say the same thing about purple shaft cams and J converters lol!