oldmangarth
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Having trouble finding a good rear axle relocation write up. Want to slide mine back maybe 1" so I can center the tire and mount a larger one.
Rear Axle Relocation
- Thread starter oldmangarth
- Start date
In my build . . .
- Moved the front of the fender opening forward to match the inner well metal
- Mini-tubbed the wheel wells
- Narrowed the axle 3" on each side
Got room to pack a HUGE tire in there now . . .
- Moved the front of the fender opening forward to match the inner well metal
- Mini-tubbed the wheel wells
- Narrowed the axle 3" on each side
Got room to pack a HUGE tire in there now . . .
dsd1967
Well-Known Member
Oldmangarth
Do you have a Belvedere or a Coronet? If a Belvedere you could use Coronet front spring hangers as the coronet got their inch longer wheelbase via that bracket.
The rear shackle hole was also an inch farther back on the coronet. I’m not sure if the Belvedere location will give the proper geometry if you move the axle back. Options there would be to cut it out and reweld it back farther or use sliders.
Of course you would need a longer drive shaft
Do you have a Belvedere or a Coronet? If a Belvedere you could use Coronet front spring hangers as the coronet got their inch longer wheelbase via that bracket.
The rear shackle hole was also an inch farther back on the coronet. I’m not sure if the Belvedere location will give the proper geometry if you move the axle back. Options there would be to cut it out and reweld it back farther or use sliders.
Of course you would need a longer drive shaft
I was also interested in doing this to run a taller tire with no body mods. But it was pointed out to me that it would severely alter the shock angle and cause problems with the shock function.
Just moving the springs back would also increase the rear hanger angle - probably enough that the spring would just bottom up on the frame rail permanently. Rather than move the spring back it might be wiser to redrill the locating pin hole in the springs (the pin that locates the u-bolt plate).
Just moving the springs back would also increase the rear hanger angle - probably enough that the spring would just bottom up on the frame rail permanently. Rather than move the spring back it might be wiser to redrill the locating pin hole in the springs (the pin that locates the u-bolt plate).
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Big Bad Dad
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Drill a spring? That sounds scary, drilling spring steel...
Not a big deal
As for shock angle why would redrilling the spring be any different than moving the front hanger? The shackle angle will get better when moving the spring rearward. They are to far back to start. We've just adding a spacer between the front hanger and body with longer grade 8 bolts instead of the factory studs. You can also drill the spring perch hole further forward. 1" rearward isn't going to bother the shock at all. Heck they're on rubber mounts anyway.
Doug
Maybe there is a SS hanger 65 Dodge maybe the one you could use? 65 Dodge had 21" from front so they might work? What about rear shackles? Your driveshaft length will be 1 to short. Rear trans bushing will wear out faster. Ask me how I know!
A longer front hanger moves the spring back. Drilling a new pin hole only moves the axle and won't affect the rear shackle.
Shock rubber mounts are only there to insulate sound, not to provide any additional movement. The thickness of rubber isn't sufficient to provide that much movement.
oldmangarth
Well-Known Member
Actually, I have a 67 charger.
Just remember that moving the tire back in the wheel well to "center" it..
Actually just ends up making the tire look uncentered in the wheel well.
Looks like you hit a post and rammed the axle back in to the body lol.
Actually just ends up making the tire look uncentered in the wheel well.
Looks like you hit a post and rammed the axle back in to the body lol.
70bigblockdodge
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Shock plate has to move with axle to clamp on spring with the u bolts.
67charger383
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I can fit a n50-15 fine with super stock springs and extended front hangers on my '67 Charger.
67 Dodge front eye to axle pad hole is 22"( I believe). A 65 Dodge is 21" the 65 Dodge S/S front perch are 1" longer than stock 67's. Using the 65 Dodge front hangers would give you that inch. I forgot to measure the 65 S/S front perches I have, try to do it tomorrow. But remember d shaft length and rear shackles.
33 IMP
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My 62 has the axle moved back an inch. It looks much more centered in the wheelwell than stock, and has room for a 9x30 (currently 10.5x28). Visuals were not as important as tire room.
The shock angle change is slight, certainly no problem, the rear shackle angle mimics stock with a little more angle, the extended front spring mounts were unnecessary for the superstock springs (on a 62) but I didn't know that at time of installation. Had to redrill front spring eye location to get what I wanted.
Driveshaft is the proper length.
The shock angle change is slight, certainly no problem, the rear shackle angle mimics stock with a little more angle, the extended front spring mounts were unnecessary for the superstock springs (on a 62) but I didn't know that at time of installation. Had to redrill front spring eye location to get what I wanted.
Driveshaft is the proper length.
Stated before, the rear shackle really needs to be forward anyway. Keeps the spring from binding on extension. As for the rubber bushing twisting in the shock. Do the math. The amount of twist in the bushing is next to nothing. Heck 65 S/S cars moved the axle forward an 1" from the factory. They didn't worry about it.
Doug
oldmangarth
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Can leaf springs be ordered with center pin location specified? Are there issues with having the center pin offset by 1"? Seems like having the springs designed with off center hole is preferable to drilling 2nd hole from a strength standpoint.
The springs will not care if there's 2 pin holes. As far as strength goes.
Went to check 65 S/S front to stock same measurements just an extra hole. Guess didn't think 1" was a big deal. Have the later S/S front hangers on my 65. From face with studs 3.25" to center of hole for front of spring. I expected the measurement to be 4.25 to compensate for 1" difference of front eye to axle housing pin. 20" S/S spring vs 21" stock, guess not. Another don't assume lesson!
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