Rear drum stuck?

[nutz4spd]

I’ve been trying to remove the rear drums on my 62 Dart. The shoes are adjusted in and I have pulled on the breaker bar until the axle lifts up and bends the pry bar but it doesn’t budge. I had the center soaking in PB Blaster last night and still nothing. Is there a trick to getting them off? Do I need to pull on the drum and not the wheel studs?

 

[icetech]

I’ve been trying to remove the rear drums on my 62 Dart. The shoes are adjusted in and I have pulled on the breaker bar until the axle lifts up and bends the pry bar but it doesn’t budge. I had the center soaking in PB Blaster last night and still nothing. Is there a trick to getting them off? Do I need to pull on the drum and not the wheel studs?

If it's a original '62 with a "Tapered axle" you need a special tool.. the drum doesn't come off the studs they are "Swedged" in.. you take the nut off the end of the axle and the hub/drum come off together... you can modify them to take normal drums after you get it apart.. i wish you were local i would give you the tool and my old hubs...

The tool isn't too expensive.. you set it up like this and use a hammer on the ends of the handle.. the hub comes off easy enough usually with the tool.

There is also no real reason to not re-use the hub/axle setup.. they are very strong.

 

[icetech]

 

[icetech]

Also.. here is a thread about how to convert the hubs to use normal b-body drums.. nothing hard other than getting the proper studs.. basically drill out the old studs, remove drum.. hammer in new studs and done

Converting early taper axles/hubs to use later removable brake drums and all RH lug studs.

Hey guys, I am seeing posts about changing rear ends on early B bodies with the old style taper axles. I considered making that change, but, since nothing is really wrong with my original rear end, I didn't want to go through the work and expense to do it. However, I am in process of a front...

www.forbbodiesonly.com

 

[nutz4spd]

The puller I have is very similar to yours. It just uses a socket instead. I’ve also beat the end to try and jar it loose. No dice. Since it’s a whole hub unit, I’m not sure if using heat would work?

 

[icetech]

The puller I have is very similar to yours. It just uses a socket instead. I’ve also beat the end to try and jar it loose. No dice. Since it’s a whole hub unit, I’m not sure if using heat would work?

View attachment 1781311

heat might work... but honestly... i would airgun the tool and keep hammering/tightening and at some point it will pop....

And sorry for all the posts, i figured you didn't know bout the whole tapered axle thing and were just prying on the drum

 

[nutz4spd]

heat might work... but honestly... i would airgun the tool and keep hammering/tightening and at some point it will pop....

And sorry for all the posts, i figured you didn't know bout the whole tapered axle thing and were just prying on the drum

No worries. I knew they were tapered. I’ve just never had one this stuck on before.

 

[sam dupont]

also, besides hitting the one part, a light rap on the threaded one when user pressure can help it pop

 

[dadsbee]

I had one side fight me and the other I pulled off by hand on the '64.

If you find that you need replacements check out mine in the classifieds!

 

[RemCharger]

Back in high school a buddy couldn't get a locking nut off his Olds, so he took the other ones off and drove around.. don't remember what the result was , but at the time thought it was pretty brave

 

[threewood]

Chance that the shoes are seized to the drum? If the drums are grooved it would make it more difficult. Are you planning to reuse the drums?

 

[nutz4spd]

Chance that the shoes are seized to the drum? If the drums are grooved it would make it more difficult. Are you planning to reuse the drums?

Seized, no. I drive the car quite often. Grooved, possibly. I had the adjuster in quite a bit but was afraid to go too far with it for fear of it falling off. Then I’d be really screwed. I was planning on reusing them. At this point I’m wondering if going with a newer rear end would be better long term.

 

[QuickBpBp]

Seized, no. I drive the car quite often. Grooved, possibly. I had the adjuster in quite a bit but was afraid to go too far with it for fear of it falling off. Then I’d be really screwed. I was planning on reusing them. At this point I’m wondering if going with a newer rear end would be better long term.

It’s not a bad rear but just for simplicity I put a 68 GTX rear under my 64 Dodge. When I was racing it and changed center sections it made the job faster and easier..

 

[matthon]

I had one side fight me and the other I pulled off by hand on the '64.

This exact thing happened to me on my 64.

At this point I’m wondering if going with a newer rear end would be better long term.

The 62 rear is the narrowest of the bunch, imo keep it, you can stuff a nice big tire under there without any issues.

 

[QuickBpBp]

The 62 rear is the narrowest of the bunch, imo keep it, you can stuff a nice big tire under there without any issues.

Limiting factor on tire is the leaf springs. So it doesn’t really matter as the right wheels will still allow for the same size tire…just an added expense if changed..

 

[matthon]

Limiting factor on tire is the leaf springs. So it doesn’t really matter as the right wheels will still allow for the same size tire

I agree and disagree.
Leaf springs limiting factor, yes, however the 62 rear is very narrow, so the rim can come out farther as well.

I have a later rear in my 64 and my 62 can hands down take a much larger wheel/tire.

In my 62, I just swapped out the tapered axles with Dr Diff parts.
On another car, I kept the tapered axles and did the 65 drums swap, which was just as easy.

 

[Dave6T4]

'66/'67 rear ends are also narrow, if you want to go with newer setup. I changed both my '64 Polaras over to '69 rear ends. Pretty well a straight bolt-in.

 

[threewood]

If the drums are stuck fast to the taper spindle, time to get the correct tool. If they are stuck to the shoes, grind the head off of the shoe retainer pin from the backing plate to get them out.

 

[QuickBpBp]

I agree and disagree.
Leaf springs limiting factor, yes, however the 62 rear is very narrow, so the rim can come out farther as well.

I have a later rear in my 64 and my 62 can hands down take a much larger wheel/tire.

In my 62, I just swapped out the tapered axles with Dr Diff parts.
On another car, I kept the tapered axles and did the 65 drums swap, which was just as easy.

If the 62 & 64 share the same perch width and same wheel house you just need the right rim to fit the same size tire under the 64. The car does not care where the axle ends if having the leaf springs in the same location. It does not change the distance from the leaf spring to the edge of the wheelhouse. That said the biggest tire that will fit under the car WILL still fit with the right back spacing and same width wheel…

 

[icetech]

You don't need to change the whole rear, you can just swap the axles if you feel you need to.. but once you get that off you should never have a problem again.

I have 10.5"x30" ET Streets in the back of my 62 with the stock axle, i moved the springs in about 3/8" (just front hangers moved against the frame) and they clear on 8" rims with 4.5" backspace..