Rear Drum Wheel Stud Installation Help

[Tyron68]

I am in the process of rebuilding my rear drums (69 Charger with 10” drums) and thought this would be a good time to replace my left handed thread wheel studs. How do I do this?The originals were easy to pop out. Do I have to remove the rear axles to have these pressed on or something or is there an easier way?

 

[Don67Satellite]

My old wheel studs I just smacked them out with a hammer. No need to remove axles on my '67. Old studs were going in the bin anyhow so no need to worry about trashing them.

One of these helps with installing the new ones. But I am sure others will chime in with home-brew solutions.

Wheel Stud Installation Tool

 

[Aron Gleason]

When I put front disc brakes on, all I did was put the wheel studs in and tighten them using the lug nuts.

 

[gkent]

Make damn sure you have the correct stud/knurl diameter. Then they sould just pull in from the back with an appropriate grade 8 nut and an impact gun if you have one. Use the wrong size knurl and you'll fight this for the rest of your days.

 

[Tyron68]

Make damn sure you have the correct stud/knurl diameter. Then they sould just pull in from the back with an appropriate grade 8 nut and an impact gun if you have one. Use the wrong size knurl and you'll fight this for the rest of your days.

There’s a slight different but the diameter is the same (old on right). I think the brand is Dorman. It is really hard to see where the slots line up.

 

[Dako]

Some will say not to pull them thru using nuts. I did mine that way with no issues.

If you have front drums, and plan to stay with them, they are also doable, but they are not only pressed into the hub & drum, but they are swedged.

They have to be pressed out...and you will need support from behind, like a deep well socket, for the stud to drop into once pressed. When the swedging breaks free, expect a loud 'pop'. Installing new studs will be just like you did the rear. Bonus is once complete, the front drum will now be removable just like the rear...without removing wheel bearing.

 

[Tyron68]

Some will say not to pull them thru using nuts. I did mine that way with no issues.

If you have front drums, and plan to stay with them, they are also doable, but they are not only pressed into the hub & drum, but they are swedged.

They have to be pressed out...and you will need support from behind, like a deep well socket, for the stud to drop into once pressed. When the swedging breaks free, expect a loud 'pop'. Installing new studs will be just like you did the rear. Bonus is once complete, the front drum will now be removable just like the rear...without removing wheel bearing.

Tha

Some will say not to pull them thru using nuts. I did mine that way with no issues.

If you have front drums, and plan to stay with them, they are also doable, but they are not only pressed into the hub & drum, but they are swedged.

They have to be pressed out...and you will need support from behind, like a deep well socket, for the stud to drop into once pressed. When the swedging breaks free, expect a loud 'pop'. Installing new studs will be just like you did the rear. Bonus is once complete, the front drum will now be removable just like the rear...without removing wheel bearing.

Fortunately I do not have front drums so this would only be for the rear.

 

[Tyron68]

Make damn sure you have the correct stud/knurl diameter. Then they sould just pull in from the back with an appropriate grade 8 nut and an impact gun if you have one. Use the wrong size knurl and you'll fight this for the rest of your days.

Getting them lined up seems a little sketch since you can’t really see the Knurl of the stud?

 

[jimbosride]

I used one of these to remove and install them on the rear.