JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
I'm not up to the recommended 70 ft/lbs yet, but the bush looks excessively squished -
Rear Upper Shock Bolt Torque
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You need to make sure there is an inner sleeve in that bushing. You do not crush the rubber bushing.
JR_Charger
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Ahhh - one wonders why those things don't come installed?
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I've never bought a shock that didn't have the bushing in it.
Most of the time they are. Some shocks especially with poly bushings may come with sleeves and you use them as required. Lots of 4x4 shocks are like that. More universal when sold that way. Rubber bushings should have the sleeves impregnated into them .
Dako
Well-Known Member
Typically Shocks do come with the sleeve installed. Maybe you got defective built shocks? If they were manufactured 'off shore' it wouldn't surprise me.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
I'd bet pnora is right, they are left out for "universality."
Am I supposed to have two or four inner sleeves? I've only found two so far.
Am I supposed to have two or four inner sleeves? I've only found two so far.
Sleeves would only be on the upper mounts.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
Well that's a relief. I noticed the bushings overhang the sleeve by about a 1/16" on each side. Is that correct?
I'm fighting this right now.
Too short. The ears will have to "bend" to meet them.
And I'm not happy about the teeth.
Going to modify some way and let it rotate on a new bolt with lock nuts.
The last thing I want to do is damage the car mountings. (Think air shocks.)
I know may not be ideal but I looked at some high end shocks and they aren't in the cards for other reasons.
Fitment being just one.
True OE types ones don't seem to exist.
Rear Shock Monting Types.
Too short. The ears will have to "bend" to meet them.
And I'm not happy about the teeth.
Going to modify some way and let it rotate on a new bolt with lock nuts.
The last thing I want to do is damage the car mountings. (Think air shocks.)
I know may not be ideal but I looked at some high end shocks and they aren't in the cards for other reasons.
Fitment being just one.
True OE types ones don't seem to exist.
Rear Shock Monting Types.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
I don't recall my sleeves having teeth. I have one that isn't installed yet. I'll check for that when I put it in this evening.
Isn't the shock mount on the car supposed to bend in? I'm sure it opened up when I took the old shocks out.
Isn't the shock mount on the car supposed to bend in? I'm sure it opened up when I took the old shocks out.
The teeth anchor the sleeve to ensure the rubber does all the flexing. The shock mounting bolt must be tight. If the sleeve is allowed to rotate you loose the engineered effect (and need a zerk).
Mike
Mike
Sure.
I you have an OE shock and bothered to read Larry Sheperd......or looked at the research.
I just got back from ACE and have a fix other than previously mentioned.
I you have an OE shock and bothered to read Larry Sheperd......or looked at the research.
I just got back from ACE and have a fix other than previously mentioned.
You do not want to let it rotate on the bolt. That sleeve needs to be pinched tight. If not it will beat the crap out of the mounting rail and elongate the holes. Plus the banging noise will be terrible. If you think the gap is to large to pull tight then slide a washer in between the sleeve and the mount rail to close the gap. .
Last edited:
A sacrificial washer preferred as needed.
Sometimes we are stuck with the least bad option.
Sometimes we are stuck with the least bad option.
I'm facing a different dilemma with the upper shock mounts ... the shock crossmember is at least 1/4" wider than the shock bushing/sleeve. Another issue is the angle of the shocks requires they be pulled in towards the front to attach to the bottom mount.
Is everything OE down there? I usually have to push the shock bottom eye onto the shock plate stud and the top may spring together enough to tighten, if not it can be shimmed as noted in a earlier post.
Mike
It looks like @gkent isn't facing a different issue at all. One CAN'T (or shouldn't) have to pull the upper mounting ears together for currently available aftermarket shocks
If one does, guess what happens.
The ears hit the shock. Particularly the aft ear.
That is what I may be seeing in the OP so I gave some more info on the situation.
Previous posts can help with understanding the issue I think.
Good luck.
If one does, guess what happens.
The ears hit the shock. Particularly the aft ear.
That is what I may be seeing in the OP so I gave some more info on the situation.
Previous posts can help with understanding the issue I think.
Good luck.
JR_Charger
Well-Known Member
NAPA quality (blue shock) vs Bilstein quality (chrome sleeve) -
The NAPA sleeve is 1/8" - 3/16" longer than the Bilstein sleeve, and the NAPA sleeve has the correct teeth. I drove the NAPA shocks for years and never had a problem with the ears of the shock mount hitting the shock.
I'm going to try burning out the NAPA sleeves and reusing them in the Bilstein shocks. They're the same inner/outer diameter. I only hope they come out smooth enough to rotate in Bilstein's poly, I guess that's how it's supposed to work?
(These NAPA shocks are 30 years ago, so current ones may be as bad as the Bilsteins)
The NAPA sleeve is 1/8" - 3/16" longer than the Bilstein sleeve, and the NAPA sleeve has the correct teeth. I drove the NAPA shocks for years and never had a problem with the ears of the shock mount hitting the shock.
I'm going to try burning out the NAPA sleeves and reusing them in the Bilstein shocks. They're the same inner/outer diameter. I only hope they come out smooth enough to rotate in Bilstein's poly, I guess that's how it's supposed to work?
(These NAPA shocks are 30 years ago, so current ones may be as bad as the Bilsteins)
Here's a shot of mine ... Rancho shocks from Caltracs
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