rebuild vs. buy rebuilt

[greenmachine]

Morning guys,

I just pulled my 727 tf from my car and want to know if I should rebuild or purchase a confirmed rebuilt unit from a respected name (pat Blias) off of craigslist. The guy has doccumentation for the rebuild (stock rebuild) and the pan off to inspect. He is asking 500 O.B.O. He also has a reverse manual valve body to go with it. From what I have been reading, even a bench job on a 727 runs about 600. So its either rebuild or snag a unit ready to go with the valve body i want. Last question, are manual valve bodies ok to use on the street or will they burn up the trans faster? thanks for the input guys. Erik

 

[motorparts92]

Its always best to rebuild your own trans, because there is alot for someone else to screw up...and manual valve body wont hurt you as long as you remember to shift lol. But once again, you don't know what they have done with the valve body. I prefer to do it all myself, and im only 21 years old, so its not that hard. Getcha a shift improver kit, clutch and steel set from napa, and some new seals. Wont cost ya more than 300

 

[rrowdy]

Morning guys,

I just pulled my 727 tf from my car and want to know if I should rebuild or purchase a confirmed rebuilt unit from a respected name (pat Blias) off of craigslist. The guy has doccumentation for the rebuild (stock rebuild) and the pan off to inspect. He is asking 500 O.B.O. He also has a reverse manual valve body to go with it. From what I have been reading, even a bench job on a 727 runs about 600. So its either rebuild or snag a unit ready to go with the valve body i want. Last question, are manual valve bodies ok to use on the street or will they burn up the trans faster? thanks for the input guys. Erik

I wouldn't hesitate buying from Pat, When I built my pushbutton 727 he sent me all the parts to convert it to the later
input shaft and also other parts. He's a standup guy.
Just make sure the internals and converter are up to whatever task you're going to put it through.

Being that he's in Seattle, the shipping shouldn't be too bad either. Go for it!


Good Luck!

 

[747mopar]

I also like to build my own, but then again I'm stubborn and like doing everything myself. If you choose to, Hughes has a kit that can be bought at Summit Racing that is very complete containing allot of parts not included in others. Mine needed all new thrust washers, bushings, etc, the only thing it didn't include is the tail shaft roller bearing. Good Luck

 

[Moparsmitty]

Although I've never had Pat rebuild a trans for me, I have bought parts and have gotten a lot of free technical assistance from him. He is a good guy, friendly and helpful, and he loves MOPARS. He has a very good reputation around here. If you can't or don't want to rebuild yourself, then Pat Blais would be a good choice. As usual, this is JMHO.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you can get a bench job for 600 on a 727, you better jump all over it. Ours run about 800 for a stock unit, including new converter. We can do one to hold up behind most any street engine for around 1200.

 

[ArtH]

If you can get a bench job for 600 on a 727, you better jump all over it. Ours run about 800 for a stock unit, including new converter. We can do one to hold up behind most any street engine for around 1200.

I just paid and $850 for a complete rebuild including R&R at a transmission specialty shop. That included a new torque convertor and a shift kit. It works great and no more leaks. The place that did the work has been in business about 50 years and stands behind their work. The cost of reman was considerable more and we had to remove it and reinstall it. I think that was Jasper.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Jasper has a good rep, but all you'll get from them is a stone stock transmission. That was a damn good price you got. We generally have about 600 in parts on a 3 speed torqueflite so I don't know how the hell they did it.

 

[747mopar]

Those prices don't sound bad, I probably had close to 800.00 in mine doing it myself (hughes rebuild kit, new tail shaft bearing, TCI bolt in sprag, B&M shift kit and a TCI converter.

 

[RustyRatRod]

A little FYI, the bolt in sprag isn't necessary if you use a valve body that applies the low band in first gear. I wouldn't say it's money wasted, but it can sure be spent somewhere else.

 

[747mopar]

A little FYI, the bolt in sprag isn't necessary if you use a valve body that applies the low band in first gear. I wouldn't say it's money wasted, but it can sure be spent somewhere else.

Good to know, I talked to a few companies like API and TCI and both claimed that was the weak spot of the 727 so I went ahead and upgraded it. It's for a cruiser making somewhere in the 450-500 hp range.

 

[RustyRatRod]

That's true. It is the weak link. The trick is not to burnout in low gear. If you burnout in low gear and it shifts to second and then hooks up, it shocks the overrunning clutch so severely that it can grenade the transmission. With a manual valve body, you simply start the burnout in 2nd. That takes the overrunning clutch out of the equation. If you do that, you really don't need the low band apply....but it's still a good idea.

 

[greenmachine]

Thanks for reply guys. I am getting a doccumented pat blias trans with manual valve body for 600 tomorow. trans has never been used, no fluids in it, pan off to inspect. guy i am talking to seem legit. talked to my trans guy and rustyratrod was 100% correct. even a bench job was a grand. At this time I am willing to take the risk of a craigs add. My gut tells me this guy is being pretty honest. Could get bit, but still worth the risk. Erik