Rebuild

[steve from staten island]

Next week or soon i will be sending my short block (383) out to be rebuilt. Its never been bored or had the crank cut. It was a two barrel motor. The heads were already done and all stock. Im thinking id like a little more HP. I want to use HP exhaust manifolds, keep my stock heads and a four barrel cast original intake. Any suggestions to what carb/ cam/ignition? Id be looking for the HP of a RR engine

 

[1967coronet440]

Steve

Try calling Hughes engines they have a variety of cams for basically stock engines, great guys to deal with. Here’s a link to one that would be nice for your 383. They’re the experts not me so give them a buzz and let them know what you’re looking for.


http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...RmxhdCBUYXBwZXQsIEh5ZHJhdWxpYw==&partid=30252

 

[1967coronet440]

Steve

Try calling Hughes engines they have a variety of cams for basically stock engines, great guys to deal with. Here’s a link to one that would be nice for your 383. They’re the experts not me so give them a buzz and let them know what you’re looking for.


http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...RmxhdCBUYXBwZXQsIEh5ZHJhdWxpYw==&partid=30252

 

[flypaper]

from what i have read and seen
the key to the cheap way to making decent power in a big block is all in the heads.
if the heads don't breath well
you will never get the full potential out of adding all of those parts that you mention.

 

[steve from staten island]

from what i have read and seen
the key to the cheap way to making decent power in a big block is all in the heads.
if the heads don't breath well
you will never get the full potential out of adding all of those parts that you mention.

Thanks, what heads should i use?

 

[flypaper]

Eddy heads would be near the top for bang for the buck
but they are a bit pricey.
even a stock set of heads with a good porting job will help you out a lot.
what I would do is research out some proven combos
and then narrow it down to what you are after and your budget.
you can build a build a decent motor without breaking the bank that bad.

here is a cheap bb build for example
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-1304-440-mopar-engine-back-to-basics/

and some proven combos to check out

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/board,30.0.html

 

[fratzog lover]

Don't get caught up in "more duration, more fun." Not with the short stroke 383. Its rather easy to turn a simple B block rebuild into a dog.

 

[BSB67]

Make a good piston choice.

"Rebuilt heads" make me cringe. Experience suggests that they are usually junk. Usually a huge lost HP opportunity.

Something in the 220° @ 0.050 on a 112° lsa.

 

[451Mopar]

Been awhile since I looked at building a 383.
Shelf stock type pistons look pretty limited to the KB-162 Flat top with valve reliefs, or the Speed-Pro Forged L2315NF30 with no valve reliefs.
The KB-162 has 1.908" compression height and with a 9.980" block height should be about 0.024" below deck height.
The Speed Pro has 1.920" compression height and with same 9.980" block would be 0.012" below deck height.
If you don't want to cut the block the speed pro piston should have about 0.6 more compression ratio.
Example with 0.040" 10cc head gasket and 84 cc heads, KB-162 = 8.61:1 compression, and Speed-Pro = 9.23:1 compression.
If you don't mind milling the block height then at zero-deck the compression ratios would be KB-162 = 9.05:1, Speed Pro = 9.48:1 with 84 cc heads and 0.040" head gasket.
Using a 0.020" head gasket increases this to 9.48:1 and 9.95:1 (zero deck, 0.020" 5cc gasket and 84 cc heads.)

The down side of milling the block is the head or intake needs to be milled for the intake manifold to fit, and likely need shorter pushrods.
Because the Speed-pro piston has no valve reliefs, you would need a mild duration cam to prevent piston to valve clearance issues, but that may not be an issue with a mild build anyhow?

On your stock heads, did you have hardened exhaust seats installed when they were rebuilt?
As mentioned, better flowing heads will really help with making more power.

I may have more info that may help. My old 383 with the speed pro pistons has been sitting on the engine stand for 20 years and I have been thinking of working on it. This may be the motivation I need.

 

[steve from staten island]

Appreciate the replies and advise. All I'm really looking for is a 383 HP motor like in a RR. Whatever was used in that engine is what i want. What I'm concerned with is what heads and cam, carb should i use.

 

[Larrry B.]

Do all machine work on the block, if you're having the motor rebuilt and it's never been done, I would make that a priority. Check the rods and crank (forged)...

There are plenty of choices for a "stock" cam grind. Depending on your heads, you could probably get more bump with your cam selection. If stock heads, have some work done so they flow better. Or get a set of aluminum heads, budget permitting.

I'd go with an Edelbrock aluminum dual plane intake and paint it whatever color your motor will be so it looks stock.

600-670 cfm carb for stock rebuild with exhaust manifolds.

Electronic ignition upgrade, lots of options available.

 

[451Mopar]

I just scraped the carbon off the pistons on my old 383. It has the Speed Pro 2315 pistons. I don't think the block was decked, but the pistons are 0.025" below the deck? I guess this would make my block height closer to 9.993". At least it was the same on the #1 and #6 pistons that I checked. On the #6 piston there is a mark where the Intake valve hit the piston when I over-reved the engine. Not really a P-V clearance issue, but 727 shift kit that lets you select 1st gear at any speed.

 

[Cranky]

I've done that to a few engines lol

 

[451Mopar]

That is the number matching 383 to my '71 Charger. I rebuilt it back around 1988, and used some '68 "906" heads that were rebuilt (stock valve sizes), and mildly ported, opened up the bowl area under the valves. The cam was a Crower Compu-Pro. I don't for sure know the number, but I think it may have been the #32211? that is 216/220@ 0.050", 0.475"/0.486" lift, 114 lsa.
I was never happy with that combination, but it was never tuned correctly either. (stock ignition curve, messed up carb, stock converter 3.23:1 gear.) Back then I did not know much about how to tune engines, and found out later the carb has some problems.

 

[vintage chromoly]

Hey Steve.
In my opinion, I'd look for a soup to nuts engine shop that can take you from the tear down back to an engine ready to drop in and fire.

There has to be a reputable muscle car engine shop near you.

Tell them what you are after and establish a budget and go from there.

Doing some online "homework" is good so you have a general idea of what things cost and what class of parts you'll likely use.

Be very clear with the machine shop as far as your desired end result so you don't wind up with a 1/4 mile engine with bad street manners.

 

[BSB67]

....All I'm really looking for is a 383 HP motor like in a RR. Whatever was used in that engine is what i want. What I'm concerned with is what heads and cam, carb should i use.

I think this is exactly how folks have been responding.

If you use "rebuilt heads" and any "replacement piston" that the machine shop puts in, you will fall far short of RR 383 hp performance.

Heads- Stealth
Pistons - 2315 (There is no 383 hp replacement piston available and this is your best bet)
Cam - 220° @ 0.050 and 112° LSA, or any other manufacturers hp replacement cam.
Gasket - 0.020"

This will be a no fuss no muss build that will make a little more power than a RR 383 hp.

 

[SlinktRR]

if you want to keep it stock appearance but with more power go with stealth aluminum heads.

 

[steve from staten island]

I appreciate the advise, this car started life as a 2 barrel single exhaust 383 and thats the way it is now. The heads were rebuilt and they do have hardened exhaust valve seats. The bottom end i did and I'm not confident in it, plus it has a bad valve tap on start up . I have the original block and am going to have that rebuilt. The car is strictly for cruising and im past the go fast stage. I just was looking for a little more boost and was thinking of a four barrel, dual exhaust and whatever cam was recommended. Reliability and smooth idle are important. Thanks

 

[moper]

If the 2nd block is completely machined and blueprinted, and the heads are done well with an eye towards performance, than a modern flat tappet cam will give you more power than the stock 383 4bbl with the drivability. Cams choice questions will always get as many ideas as posters. Personally I like the Comp XE series. I'd use the XE262 with most pistons available. If you can guarantee a static ratio of 9.8:1 or better (not easy to do with common pistons) then the XE268.

 

[451Mopar]

For a mild cam with the stock heads, the Lunati Voodoo 10230701LK (256/262 advertised duration) looks good. It is 213/220 @ 0.050", 0.454"/0.475" lift, 112 LSA installed at 108 Intake Center Line.
It looks like it would be a bit larger than the comp XE256 (212/218 @ 0.050", 0.447"/0.455" lift, 110 LSA, 106 ICL), and smaller than the Comp XE262 (218/224 @ 0.050", 0.462"/0.470" lift 110 LSA, 106 ICL.)
The Voodoo cam does use the 3-bolt cam timing gear set which I like to use, but the Comp cams are good too and use the stock type single bolt timing set.