Recommendations for a A727 ......

[catfish774]

Found my 65 slip joint A727 cable shift transmission I been looking for, and I will need to put an overhaul kit in it and probably like to add a shift kit as well.
Who has the best selection and prices?
What have you all used and how has it worked out for you?

 

[Yatzee]

Trans Go are the best shift kits second to the offering by TCI. Unfortunately, TCI makes the complete replacement valve body which does not fit cable shift transmissions (I believe). It is an issue with the shifter post that comes up through the casing and their bodies are not made for a two cable (parking lever on the rear of the tranny) rather an internal parking pawl activated off the same post. These were particular to later transmissions. I swapped a '70 charger tranny for the cable shift version. Been running a TCI body in my 727 for five years now with out any issues. Rebuild kits are another issue. I went with Kevlar bands and quality clutch plates because I didn't want to have to revisit the rebuild a second time. Prices are competitive among suppliers but you really only get what you pay for. Regardless of what kit you buy, make sure it contains all the necessary parts for a complete rebuild. I found that Summit has the best prices and a really good selection of kits and stand alone items.

 

[snakeoil24]

Change the spragues

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

You have many options. What power level are you playing with? Will you race the car?? These questions must be answered before you make your battle plan.

 

[threewood]

You have many options. What power level are you playing with? Will you race the car?? These questions must be answered before you make your battle plan.

Agree. I'm looking at parts for a street build on a 64 727 and there are a lot of spendy parts that would be nice but probably not needed. Last one I rebuilt, I went with A&A Transmissions rebuild kit with red clutches and Kolene steels, master bushing kit, and 6 bolt sprag (no drilling necessary on rear pump models). I also purchased a Max Wedge governor/spring from TorqueflitePatty on ebay and it shifts at 5600 on the button, no shift kit.

One upgrade I will probably get is the billet servo for increased line pressures if/when I put in the Transgo TF-2 shift kit. My bands were still good and I needed a rear clutch spring.

Copes Racing Transmissions is also a good option.

 

[dvw]

First off you would be advised to swap the input shaft and pump so it can utilize the later 67 and up converter. The stock low roller (sprag) works fine. The only upgrade low roller would be the A&A, TCI, etc $200 unit. The others are for case repair. Its not the outer race that fails, it the locating tabs that bend. The more expensive unit has more rollers. I've successfully run the stock 65 low roller in 9.0, 10.0,and 11.0 cars, many runs, no failures. If your worried about the high gear drum exploding it can be upgraded to billet but they're pretty expensive. I personally have never broke a stock one. Note when upgrading the pump; if the front clutch drum is a 3 clutch get a 4 clutch drum and upgrade to the 71 and up pump, input and drum. Kolene steels are nice but not really necessary. Borg Warner tans do an excellent job. CRT,A&A, or Turbo Action manual valve body. Red hard band, 3.8,4.2, or 5.0 lever, 2 springs (inner and outer) in the front servo, .050"-.060" front clutch clearance. I've built many with this formula. Will easily run 10 second ET's with nothing but a yearly fluid and filter change. All stock components can be used.
Doug

 

[440beep]

Call and talk to John Cope of Cope Racing Transmissions!

 

[SlinktRR]

Agree. I'm looking at parts for a street build on a 64 727 and there are a lot of spendy parts that would be nice but probably not needed. Last one I rebuilt, I went with A&A Transmissions rebuild kit with red clutches and Kolene steels, master bushing kit, and 6 bolt sprag (no drilling necessary on rear pump models). I also purchased a Max Wedge governor/spring from TorqueflitePatty on ebay and it shifts at 5600 on the button, no shift kit.

One upgrade I will probably get is the billet servo for increased line pressures if/when I put in the Transgo TF-2 shift kit. My bands were still good and I needed a rear clutch spring.

Copes Racing Transmissions is also a good option.

Good advice. I use the TF2 and A&A 6000+ rpm governor, shift by letting off a touch on the throttle like you're shifting a manual then floor it again for 2nd/3rd gear. Call A&A they have everything you need. I really like 727's using this setup.

 

[383man]

First off you would be advised to swap the input shaft and pump so it can utilize the later 67 and up converter. The stock low roller (sprag) works fine. The only upgrade low roller would be the A&A, TCI, etc $200 unit. The others are for case repair. Its not the outer race that fails, it the locating tabs that bend. The more expensive unit has more rollers. I've successfully run the stock 65 low roller in 9.0, 10.0,and 11.0 cars, many runs, no failures. If your worried about the high gear drum exploding it can be upgraded to billet but they're pretty expensive. I personally have never broke a stock one. Note when upgrading the pump; if the front clutch drum is a 3 clutch get a 4 clutch drum and upgrade to the 71 and up pump, input and drum. Kolene steels are nice but not really necessary. Borg Warner tans do an excellent job. CRT,A&A, or Turbo Action manual valve body. Red hard band, 3.8,4.2, or 5.0 lever, 2 springs (inner and outer) in the front servo, .050"-.060" front clutch clearance. I've built many with this formula. Will easily run 10 second ET's with nothing but a yearly fluid and filter change. All stock components can be used.
Doug

I basically agree with Doug. My trans in my 63 is a 1970 unit but its basically a stock 727 with a bolt-in rear sprag and a Turbo Action manual valve body. I use Mopar clutches and bands since I did auto trans work at a Dodge dealer for 24 years I have some extra Mopar parts around and I use them. My trans has been in my 63 since 2006 and I drive it alot and race it once or twice a year when I can. The fluid still looks super clean red and for what I do running 10.70's its held up fine. I do agree that its a good idea to upgrade the front drum to a billet one also.

 

[catfish774]

Sounds like you have been around the block Doug, I will heed your advice in my trans build. Never played with the trans before so it is all new to me, I do have a friend that has fixed his own and is confident in working on them. I will share this info with him and come up with a plan.
Thanks to all of you for the input in my build.

This is just a street cruiser and I doubt if it will see the drag strip much even though it is 3 miles from me. I am getting a 500cu stroker build going for my 4dr 62 Belvedere. Got the block, crank, rods, pistons in the shop now. Found some 452 heads. And going to have to select a camshaft now.
Is there a thread on FBBO that shows owners builds?

First off you would be advised to swap the input shaft and pump so it can utilize the later 67 and up converter. The stock low roller (sprag) works fine. The only upgrade low roller would be the A&A, TCI, etc $200 unit. The others are for case repair. Its not the outer race that fails, it the locating tabs that bend. The more expensive unit has more rollers. I've successfully run the stock 65 low roller in 9.0, 10.0,and 11.0 cars, many runs, no failures. If your worried about the high gear drum exploding it can be upgraded to billet but they're pretty expensive. I personally have never broke a stock one. Note when upgrading the pump; if the front clutch drum is a 3 clutch get a 4 clutch drum and upgrade to the 71 and up pump, input and drum. Kolene steels are nice but not really necessary. Borg Warner tans do an excellent job. CRT,A&A, or Turbo Action manual valve body. Red hard band, 3.8,4.2, or 5.0 lever, 2 springs (inner and outer) in the front servo, .050"-.060" front clutch clearance. I've built many with this formula. Will easily run 10 second ET's with nothing but a yearly fluid and filter change. All stock components can be used.
Doug