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I'm going with Caltracs split mono leaf springs. I'll talk to them about the 3 ride height options: -1/stock/+1 inch to see what is right for me.
Recommended rear coil-over. (4-link)
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Jarven1977
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I talked about this with a colleageue of mine with a lot of experience from rally and racing. And he said something wise. When you have a suspension like the RMS 4-link with that much uniballs the ride is going to get rough on a street car. It's nice with a minimum of flex in a race-car but on a street car "something is gonna give in" meaning that you are going to stress something else when you remove all rubber connections.
All in all, I'm more confused than ever
All in all, I'm more confused than ever
Jarven1977
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By the way, this is somewhat the stance I'm aiming for.
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and 
bearman
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Lowering car with springs can happen many different ways. I believe the best way is to have the springs done the way you need them. Plus you can as also drill a hole in the front spring hangers one inch above the stock location. But remember to check pinion angle.
747mopar
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Good read, I've been kicking around what to do with mine as well. Me personally I don't like a lot of these bolt in kits, they sacrifice geometry in order to make it fit then use heim joints over polyurethane or rubber which to me is a no no on the street.
Jarven1977
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Totally agree. IF I were to build my own triangulated 4-link(still not decided..) I was thinking of using the rear wishbone bushings out of the W201 Mercedes. They are very durable, have some flex but still firm.
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I don't know if this would be appropriate, but I chose these to tip the ends of the UCAs on our GTO:
https://www.umiperformance.com/home...int-end-¾-16-right-hand-thread-gm-a-g-f-body/
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Lol.
I haven't had to do that yet, but I wouldn't argue that I may subconsciously factor that in to a lot of decisions I make.
I like them because they are sturdy yet articulate very well.
747mopar
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Honestly I think I've just about decided that if I ever do my car again I'm putting an Art Morrison chassis under it and calling it good lol. Really pissed me off seeing a stress crack starting on the top of the quarter right behind the door where they always crack. I don't drive mine easy but I had hoped the subframe connectors would have helped.
Look into torque arm setups as well, I honestly think it's a better fit for these cars (look at a 3rd gen camaro). Very simple and effective and uses no space where these cars have none (behind the seat).
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