Removing broken drill bit or bolt from a carburetor with Alum

[MadMax3426]

I don't know if this has ever happened to anyone else, but I broke off the head of the accelerator screw when I was taking apart the Carter AFB 4 bbl 3611S, from my 1964 Dodge 440 426 Street Wedge to rebuild it. The screw seemed to be frozen in place somehow bonding with the aluminum body of the carburetor.

Searching the internet on how to remove it, I found the thread below:

https://www.hondatwins.net/threads/...retor-zinc-potmetal-aluminum-or-brass.123862/

And I wanted to share it with everyone who might in the past, or now, or in the future finding themselves with this same problem.

I've heard that you can heat the area and then remove the screw, but not wanting to create a further problem by maybe melting the aluminum as I attempt this, I am at a cross roads with just how to solve the problem myself without having someone at carburetor shop do it for me.

Yes, always the student and willing and wanting to learn.

So if you've come across this same problem, let me know how you've handled it or if you yourself has used the McCormick Alum for problems with your carburetor or whatever as I would really like to know what the outcome was.

 

[funknut]

I have done this before, but not with a carb. I used alum, but I also read that nitric acid will work too. Alum will not hurt the aluminum, but you will need to take care not to get it on other steel parts. You can speed up the process by keeping it in a warm place, or point a light at it.

Having said all that, I would use this as a last resort, once I had already tried some percussive maintenance, screw extractors, etc. I would think some heat is ok, so long as you don't go full gonzo with it.

 

[Moms68]

I’ve had pretty good luck using PB Blaster.

 

[Don Frelier]

Can you show a picture of the broken screw or bolt?
That would make it easier to offer suggestions

 

[MadMax3426]

Don Frelier, Sorry but my camera isn't working, so no, I can not give you a picture.
However, if you take a look on a Carter Carburetor at the accelerator pump where it is attached by the small screw to the housing, and image it having a broken bolt head, that would be the closest to what I have.
I know that this compounds the problem, no image, but if you have any ideas, let me know.

Thanks to everyone who has reached out to help.

 

[zyzzyx]

A pic would help. One thing to keep in mind is if the screw is bottomed out in the hole, you're
going to have to loosen it. You can take a teeny chisel and put a slot across the top of the piece
left in the carb and then use a small flat blade screw driver to turn it out. Another idea is to get
a center punch, punch it as close to the center, and then drill it with a left-handed drill bit.
Usually comes out pretty easy!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Had an accelerator pump pivot screw head off. Drilled it put an ez out in it heated it with propane torch. Took a couple of times but it came out. Nice if you have junk carb to heat up to ease your fears of melting it. I was nervous because it was a Hemi carb top.

 

[Nate S]

If you don’t succeed, I have a scrap 3611, I’d be willing to part with the top of it. Might have the same battle but you’d get another try.

 

[khryslerkid]

@MadMax3426 I believe you're referring to this screw...

 

[Don Frelier]

He said accelerator pump I think up higher on the lever

 

[Fran Blacker]

The accelerator rod is on throttle arm. Either the pivot arm screw or after you remove the top, squirt nozzle screws?

 

[Photon440]

I don't know if this has ever happened to anyone else, but I broke off the head of the accelerator screw when I was taking apart the Carter AFB 4 bbl 3611S, from my 1964 Dodge 440 426 Street Wedge to rebuild it. The screw seemed to be frozen in place somehow bonding with the aluminum body of the carburetor.

Searching the internet on how to remove it, I found the thread below:

https://www.hondatwins.net/threads/...retor-zinc-potmetal-aluminum-or-brass.123862/

And I wanted to share it with everyone who might in the past, or now, or in the future finding themselves with this same problem.

I've heard that you can heat the area and then remove the screw, but not wanting to create a further problem by maybe melting the aluminum as I attempt this, I am at a cross roads with just how to solve the problem myself without having someone at carburetor shop do it for me.

Yes, always the student and willing and wanting to learn.

So if you've come across this same problem, let me know how you've handled it or if you yourself has used the McCormick Alum for problems with your carburetor or whatever as I would really like to know what the outcome was.View attachment 1104118

Thanks for that info and the link, it could come in useful some day!

 

[MadMax3426]

I see that I am confusing some people as to what I am

I am trying to explain....so without further ado...

Please see Item number 12 -the screw that I am talking about. It attaches number 13 to the carburetor and this is the screw that I twisted the head off from when I tried in vain to remove it.

Sorry for the confusing... my camera is broken, so no pictures till I get a new one.

I hope that this will allow everyone to see what the problem is that I am facing.

Thank everyone that has come forth in trying to help,

 

[MadMax3426]

khyslerkid...Please my new post as I have posted a diagram of what the problem is.
Thank you

 

[MadMax3426]

Fran Blacker... That is exactly what I am trying to say that I broke the head off of, the accelerator pump pivot screw. It seems to be bonded to the aluminum housing and that is my problem in my attempts to remove it.

I am going to try the Alum, but it that doesn't work, I have to do what you've done in your description.

Thank you for your relay to help me.

 

[Fran Blacker]

With heat it came loose, heat try if it doesn't come loose, more heat etc. I was nervous it was on a 4343s hemi carb. Had hell of a job finding a new pivot screw, it's an odd ball. There's a bowl vent arm plus the accelerators pump arm, the screw is a 1/4" longer. Bought another 67 carb non-hemi, $50 for the carb just used the screw.

 

[MadMax3426]

Fran Blacker....How well I know that feeling....
I forget who I got the new pivot screw from...I'll look at the some receipts that I have for the 64 Dodge and let you know.
How close did you get with the heat and what did you use-propane bottle or ???
Do you think that a high gun would work?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Heat gun might be worth a try. With the propane it took me 3 tries. The zinc dissipate heat well so it takes patience. No extra carb to test? I wouldn't use map gas.

 

[MadMax3426]

Fran Blacker...No, but I do have another Carter AFB 3611S that I bought just in case I messed up with this one.
And I have one of the 426 Hemi Crossram 1965 Carter AFB 3861 that I thought of using as I went with a big camshaft then the original factory 426 Street Wedge camshaft.

Well, on with the adventure, it is all a learning experience anyway as each problem is a teacher.

Speaking of which, today I installed the new fuel tank grommet along with the factory filler tube.

1.Boiled it in a pan on top of the stove for 20 minutes adding dawn dish soap to the mix.
2.Installed the grommet wiping Vaseline and more dawn dish soap into the ID of the grommet.
3.Applied the same to the bottom of the filler tube and push and wiggle it in with everything that I had and in it went.
Always a fun job. LOL
Thank you for the tips and help.
MadMax3426

 

[Tony Tee]

I watched a YouTube video where alum and battery acid dissolved a broken tap in aluminum in about 2 hours without affecting the aluminum at all... My worry is that if the carburetor is not 100% aluminum it might not work and damage the carb. Because it was zinc or a alloy of some sort. Does anyone know 100% for sure what carter carbs are made of ?