Removing motor with trans in car - any tips?

[SlinktRR]

I have tried pulling everything complete with the deep pan 1 time and will never do it again in a B body. Had to almost tilt everything vertical to get it out an 8 ft ceiling will not allow it.

hmm good point. My next install will be with a 7 qt milodon. guess I need to weigh the pain threshold of grill and radiator support removal versus separate installs versus dropping the k member.

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm thinking that the later B body's have a little more lenth in their engine compartment. My '62 used all of it!

 

[440beep]

I have a Moroso 7qt pan, and I jacked way up the *** end to get motor/trans in and out.

 

[SlinktRR]

Good call. I used this pivot plate during my last attempt to make it an easy one person job, we'll see if I can use it again this winter.

 

[440beep]

And the motor's ready for the exit.

 

[khryslerkid]

 

[440beep]

Here's a question. Does the transmission crossmember have to be removed from the car when trying to separate trans from the motor. Was thinking this might be a way to support the trans while motor is out and I can wheel the car around I'm guessing it does so the trans can be moved around/away from motor.

You will have to lift the engine high enough to clear the engine mounts on the crossmember in order to separate it from the trans. You do not have to slide the trans back, leave it's mount attached. Unbolt all your upper bellhousing bolts before you raise it. (no hand room once it's up!) Leave the bottom two in to keep them together at this point. Now you can go under and undo all the torque converter bolts and rotate and slide the converter back into the trans. Get a small floor jack under the trans. Now remove the engine mount bolts and raise it up above the mounts, your bellhousing will likely be touching the tunnel now, or close to it. Put your floor jack under the trans pan to support it at this height. I use a piece of wood as wide as the pan to disperse the weight evenly. Take just a little weight with the jack. This is the height you will reinstall the engine at so don't let it down. Now undo your last two bellhousing bolts and wiggle it ahead. Should slide right off. It helps if you have a leveling unit for the engine so it will be on the right angle. Otherwise you will want to set the chain to hang a little lower on the back end.
Hope this makes sense!

 

[gdrill]

No, the crossmember stays. As you lift the engine up to the trans tunnel, you can the slide the engine ahead. If you want, you can put a ratchet strap across the torsion bars under the front of the trans after to hold it up and make the car movable.

 

[440beep]

Perfect!!! that's what I was looking for!! Glad I asked because I almost had the cross member off the car today. I like this plan much better.

No, the crossmember stays. As you lift the engine up to the trans tunnel, you can the slide the engine ahead. If you want, you can put a ratchet strap across the torsion bars under the front of the trans after to hold it up and make the car movable.

 

[gdrill]

The trans will be right up against the floor in order to clear the engine mounts. On mine I was beginning to worry, but low and behold it was just enough!

 

[Car Nut]

Drop it from under the car like Ma Mopar did with these and just keep adding to them until high enough. Nice to have to support the car while working underneath too.

 

[oldbee]

If it was me,I'd remove distributor. Way too easy to bump&break something.Stuff a rag in the hole.

 

[440beep]

The car hood's coming off, so unless I hit the 10' high garage ceiling, it should be safe. But still, easy enough to remove to be safe.

If it was me,I'd remove distributor. Way too easy to bump&break something.Stuff a rag in the hole.

 

[440beep]

Picked up the ratchet strap tonight! I never would have thought of that!

No, the crossmember stays. As you lift the engine up to the trans tunnel, you can the slide the engine ahead. If you want, you can put a ratchet strap across the torsion bars under the front of the trans after to hold it up and make the car movable.

 

[gdrill]

It was a tidbit I picked up on FABO a few days ago in a discussion about holding the trans up. I'll be using it myself from now on too.

 

[440beep]

Thanks everyone on the tips for pulling the motor and leaving the trans in the car. Motor popped right out, no hassles. And I've got a ratchet strap holding the trans in place so I can move the car if need be. Awesome help guys!! Here's hoping the motor goes back in just as easy!!

 

[Garys1969RR]

Drop it from under the car like Ma Mopar did with these and just keep adding to them until high enough. Nice to have to support the car while working underneath too. Do you set the 4 wheels on those stacked blocks? Then move the bolted together engine/tranny/K member in underneath? Then just bolt the K member on with the 4 bolts? I've heard of that being done, but never tried it. Sounds like alot.

View attachment 373865

 

[Garys1969RR]

I know of a guy on the forum that likes to do it like that.

 

[gdrill]

Good to see. Now get that sucker done and back in!

 

[Car Nut]

Do you set the 4 wheels on those stacked blocks? Then move the bolted together engine/tranny/K member in underneath? Then just bolt the K member on with the 4 bolts? I've heard of that being done, but never tried it. Sounds like alot.

Yes, but yours sounds like it came out easy. Here's a picture of an install from underneath a Corvette.