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Removing Oil Pan

bandit

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I have some very slow leaks around my oil pan after an oil change so wanting to change the gasket. I am looking at it and read how to remove it from the service manual but think I am going to run into issues with the headers. Manual says to take off stock exhaust pipes from manifolds to get clearance to twist the pan out after dropping. (twist to get around oil pump) I have headers on the car and can see an issue with left to right clearance to do this. Headers are in there and can't be removed without removing engine. I have tried a couple times before and they have no clearance to get out.

Before I get myself into a mess and find out I can't get that thing out of there, has anyone successfully removed a 383 oil pan while the engine is still in the car (with headers). From looking at it, I think too much is in the way to get it out. I don't want to but I could remove the steering linkage and get more room but even that I am not sure. I have no way to remove the engine at home. I have never let a garage work on it or touch it so don't want to take that route.
 
done it on my 440 with headers...same with hemi...Should be the same....remove the crosslink and undue nuts or bolts to pan...Don't see how the headers or exhaust manifolds would come into play
 
Thanks!! Feel better to hear from someone who did it already. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going down a hole I wish I hadn't. Service manual doesn't remove the crosslink and described twisting the pan out to clear the pump. I am assuming the twisting part is why you need the exhaust out of there.
 
I just finished doing this exact thing to my uncle's RR, a pain in the *** for sure, but with some patience, cussing like sailor, and threatening it with the BFH, I got it. It was easier to remove the old pan than it was to get a freshly painted new pan in.
 
done it a billion times.. the job is a piece of cake. Disconnect the center link from both ends & pitman, swing it out of the way. There is no oil pump inside the pan. The most difficult part are the bolts above the k-frame, really.
 
done it a billion times.. the job is a piece of cake. Disconnect the center link from both ends & pitman, swing it out of the way. There is no oil pump inside the pan. The most difficult part are the bolts above the k-frame, really.

yepper...the front bolts/nuts are the worst part...I have studs for my pan...gaskets/windage tray line up better/easier
 
Tried it but I wasn't confident that I wouldn't have a leak so I lifted the engine. You don't do this kind of thing very often so you better get it right the first time. " Always time to do it twice, never time to do it right!"
 
Why would an oil change cause this? I would try gently snugging all pan bolts including those hard to reach. Wipe it off and drive it. Oil could be coming from above too. Hope it's not. Mine will take a half turn or so - some of them - every 5 or so thousand miles. A little weeping I consider normal.
 
For you guys struggling to get the pan out, try rotating the crank a bit with a 1.25" socket as you wiggle the pan around. I have removed several pans and didn't think it was that bad of job.
 
Like hunt2elk says, you can make this job easier by turning the engine a little to get the crankshaft counterweights out of the way while you are pulling the pan out. It's still a PITA but this job's a lot easier if the car is up on a lift.
 
I have my trans out and I know I need to replace the oil pan gasket, so I'm lining up some time to knock it out. Having said that, I have several questions, as I've never fooled with any front suspension stuff before.
  • If I take off the center link, what do I need to know about the suspension afterwards? Will it bolt right back up and be in alignment?
  • Is anything else going to just "drop" as well like the idler arm or the tie rods? I'm thinking safety. I have the car up on jackstands now, so the suspension is unloaded.
  • Do I need any special tools?
Is there any chance that I can just unbolt the oil pan and slightly jack the motor up to get the old gasket out and put a new one on instead of taking off the center link? The oi pan is sitting right on the link, but if I can get an inch or so maybe it's enough to fish it around the oil pump? Just a thought.

If anyone has any pics of them removing the center link and oil pan with a proper/safe procedure, I'm all ears on this one. Thanks again everyone.
 
take the link out...install the link after...and enjoy

oh...the suspension will not drop...the tires may turn but they will align fine with the link back in
 
Hey, I am a pro at this. Just did it for the first time, then second, then third time in one day. I got the pan out with little problem, oh, I have a 440 with hooker headers in a Satellite. I did not have much of a problem getting the pan out. The bolts in front are a bit of a pain, but with small fingers you will be fine. The the windage tray had to come out. This was easier than the pan, except for the amount of gasket material the guy before me used. Got it all cleaned up and ordered me a new chrome one, could not find an OEM under $260. Bought one of those blue pro something or other composite gaskets to make things simple. Decided to paint the old pan in Hemi Orange like it was. Pounded out someone else's dings as was ready to put the sucker back into the spaghetti. Put a gasket on the windage tray, another between it and the pan and put a large amount of "the best" gasket material/sealer I could find. Got under the beast and thought back to how it was I got the pan out to begin with. Thought I remembered, but before I could execute my first attempt, the friggin blue multi compound gasket separated from the pan. I reacted quickly in order to not lose the windage tray. I now know what the safety driving course instructor meant when he said that you reactions would become weaker as you got older. I lost it all on the very first attempt. Being pissed, I tried to force it up in the cavity. I twisted it until I didn't have any of the gasket sealer left on the pan or tray. It was all over me, the new paint job on the pan, on the crank, on the hookers. Somehow, a little got on the surface of the block.........time for a beer and bed. The next day I got the pan out of the bushes and the windage tray out of the garbage and cleaned them up and had to pound some new dents out of the pan and repaint it. Oh, by now the rim of the pan was not so straight, but a little work made it so. Mean while, I got back on this site and searched for an easier, or more correct, way of doing this. No, I wasn't going to put that new chrome pan on this car.......not on your life. Here is the way to do this.......

Go on to Jegs and order the windage tray with the molded in gaskets on both sides. Buy the "Grey" gasket material and lay a bead on both sides of the gasket of the tray. (This may not be necessary but I did not want to take this off the car again.) Do not put a bead on the pan. Remember, less is better. You may not even need any goop, but I was not in a mood to repeat the night before. I think I would be sleeping in the garage if I came in like I did the night before. I did learn that you can drown your sorrows with a garage frig full of beer, but your wife will not believe you when you tell her what she smelt was fumes from a potent adhesive. Now, here is the trick.

Before you attempt to put the pan and tray on, try each of them without any goop on them. The tray is easy. The pan...stick the leading front left edge up as far as it will go in the space you have. Now take the rear right part and get it as far right as you can. Make sure the pick up is is not over the baffle at this point. Now twist the pan clockwise from the the rear, trying to keep that front left edge up in the cavity space. With luck, it will pop over the oil pick up and your home free. Take it back off the same way, only twist and pull it backward. Now put the tray and the pan together and execute the procedure. I call it twist and shout.

Now, all of this was after you take the steering rod going across the pan off from the right hand side (passenger side) and swinging it out of the way. This sounds simple, but if you have nuts that were there since the car was made 49 years ago, you may lose a nut or two doing it. No problem, at 70, you may not need those anyway.

Good luck, sure hope this helps.
 
I'm battling with a 360 oil pan myself. Came on here one last time before saying screw it and bolting eeeevvverrryyything back and limping to the mechanic shop. Here's hoping that rotating crankshaft trick works...
Have already had to drop the center link, starter, torque converter/transmission dust cover. Ridiculous! :up:
 
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