Replacing a quarter panel

[chrisd]

I'm looking for some advice from people that have done this before or had it done. The back portion around my tail lights and the lower quarter behind the wheel well are bad and need to be replaced. I have a donor quarter panel off a parts car that I got. I have had two different opinions on what to do about the quarter panel. Do I change the entire quarter panel all the way up to the door or do I leave the door section intact, because the door opened and closed good and everything lined up, and just replace it at the rear of the wheel well? I am also changing the trunk extension piece. Because of the way these cars are made, I think I can actually treat the tail light section and the top piece that needs to be replaced as a separate piece than the quarter panel. I know it's a matter of lining everything up. I have another piece to replace the bad quarter panel piece as well separate from the donor quarter.
Thanks for the advice

 

[conv67bdere]

My build thread shows the entire drivers side rear quarter, from the door back being replaced. In addition, I share your "dislike" of the trunk extensions and changed them also on my build - love the results !

Feel free to take a look and check it out.

 

[493 Mike]

From everything I have read over the years the general consensus is to leave as much original as possible when it comes to sheet metal replacement, especially around the door opening.
Mike

 

[Demonic]

^ What 493 mike said above. Pull those dents carefully and straighten some of that original metal.

Read first: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...Q7-czQbLGxTkYpEbr7BAKS_YBzWpKBjhoCkxYQAvD_BwE

 

[chrisd]

The front of the quarter is good. Real good, in fact. The only issue I have is the rust on the bottom rear and the taillight section. I've been told leave as much original metal as possible and that actual seems easier than to pull the while quarter. The other side of the story was concert with corrosion on the underside from splicing the pieces. It's easy to reach from inside though, so it would be undercoated.

 

[dsd1967]

If that replacement quarter is good, you are way ahead replacing the entire outside. I’ve done too many patches to find it rust just beyond the patch. Welding on the flat of a panel can warp it or oil can it, the seam always has the potential to get moisture from the back.

Start by breaking all the spot welds on the donor to see what you are up against on the car. Leave the door on the car and make sure you are happy with alignment before starting to remove the old panel. Ensure no hinge slop. If all is good then remove the old one.

Clean up the flanges and hang the new quarter with clamps until you are happy with lines and gaps. Once happy start welding and alternate around to not raise too much heat in one area.

Since your car has the pinch seam at the top of the quarter this should be really straight forward.

There will be a lot less body work, your trunk extension will be easier to access and you get a look behind the panel to see if there are any surprises

 

[chrisd]

I got all the excess removed from the quarter. It will need a little work but no patch work this way, at least not on the side. My issue becomes how far is too far now? I'm going to replace the trunk extension but there is rust behind the bumper brace. The sheet metal is a flat piece so that seems easy enough but should I cut it all the way across? I can't reach the back of all of it.

 

[Mike67]

I stopped about 3/4" from the end on mine, to get to good metal.

 

[chrisd]

I stopped about 3/4" from the end on mine, to get to good metal.View attachment 966546

I'd like to do that. The front part of the quarter is good. This car was hit in the rear sometime in the past and I'm finding everything now.

 

[Mike67]

I'd like to do that. The front part of the quarter is good. This car was hit in the rear sometime in the past and I'm finding everything now.

I cant see it in the pic but depending on the damage and how good you are with a dolly and shrinking... I'm an amateur and this was my 1st...but if that replacement panel is pristine I would replace from the door to the tail, far less seams to work.

 

[chrisd]

The replacement has some dents and dings, but nothing major. The worst part of it is on the front end.

 

[chrisd]

This piece is the one in question now. It has a rust holes on the back side of the bumper brace.

 

[chrisd]

Done for the day but I've come to two conclusions.
1) definitely don't want to, I patch it up and just move forward and drive it.
2) take it to a experienced body man and go all out.
The panel under the taillight and the taillight box need to be pulled out

 

[chrisd]

Getting further into the car and don't want to move forward without getting rid of the rust behind the bumper mount brace. The area behind the red shaded area is where the rust is. I cut it out and made a new piece from sheet metal.

 

[chrisd]

Even after measuring it a few times, I ended up about a keys thickness longer. So a question for the more experienced metal workers here, what are the options? Make a new piece, try and bend this one an 1/8 of an inch, cut it?

 

[493 Mike]

Even after measuring it a few times, I ended up about a keys thickness longer. So a question for the more experienced metal workers here, what are the options? Make a new piece, try and bend this one an 1/8 of an inch, cut it?
Mike

View attachment 997139 View attachment 997140

 

[747mopar]

If your not experienced at welding panels replacing the whole quarter is a much safer approach. If you do decide to just patch it keep all of your weld joints as close as possible to hard bends and avoid welding at lengths on any flat areas.

 

[67charger383]

Where the hell did you find a solid quarter?

 

[chrisd]

I bought a parts car. Actually I bought two and both have pretty good quarters. They're not perfect but they're pretty good.

 

[chrisd]

Worked the bumper panel a little more today and the fitment looks a lot better. The picture makes it look like it's more than it is. Just need to file the edges straight and should be able to butt weld it.