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Replacing Front Wheel Bearings - Lessons Learned

Bruzilla

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I just replaced my first set of front wheel bearings on a 1974 Road Runner and thought I would pass along some observations.

First issue was getting the correct bearings. I guess all the parts stores (NAPA, Advance, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc.) use the same parts database as all of them list the wrong bearings for 1974 Road Runners. The correct bearings are A2 and A17, and this applies to most B bodies of the era. Also, the database error appears to only impact 1974 cars.

Second issue is you need to inspect your bearings at the store. Bearings should be sealed in plastic wrap or bags, and not just sitting in the box. If they are not sealed, it means someone bought them before and brought them back for some reason, and this might be a reason for you not to want them either. In my case, one of the A17 bearings I bought wasn't sealed, and I found out the bearings were A17 but the race was the next size smaller.

Next, I read a tip about using the old races to help pound in the new ones. You sit the old race on the new, and strike the old one with a hammer or mallet to push them in. This means you can get the new race in without damaging it. This idea worked great on the outer bearings, but the inner bearings seat a lot deeper in the rotor, and by the time you seat them you've pushed the old race so far in that you can't get it out. You can use the old race to get the new one in until it's about 1/8th inch from seating, then use a hammer and punch, or screwdriver, to seat the new race.

Finally, you should always replace the spindle nut, thrust washer, nut cover, and cotter pin when you replace or repack the bearings. These are sold as a kit, but most auto parts stores do not carry these in stock and have to order them in, so you might want to hit the parts store a few days before you plan on changing the bearings and order these parts in advance. Also, shop around for prices. O'Reilly's wanted $6.99 for the exact same set Autozone was selling for $3.99.
 
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Great observations and details. I didnt know about the nut and cover, but i always inspect and check for play before resuing and have not had a problem. also, the data base error does apply to 73 roadrunner as well, at least that is what i discovered along the way as well.
 
You know, I think I put my first ste of bearings and races in when I was probably about 10 or 11. That wouldda been 75 or 76. I cannot count how many I've put in since and I never once needed a bushing driver. I reckon if you wanna give the tool man your money.....
 
Rusty, Tools are Cheap when you have the hook up. That set is less money than a dial indicator.
 
Next, I read a tip about using the old races to help pound in the new ones. You sit the old race on the new, and strike the old one with a hammer or mallet to push them in. This means you can get the new race in without damaging it. This idea worked great on the outer bearings, but the inner bearings seat a lot deeper in the rotor, and by the time you seat them you've pushed the old race so far in that you can't get it out. You can use the old race to get the new one in until it's about 1/8th inch from seating, then use a hammer and punch, or screwdriver, to seat the new race.

I just ran across this thread while searching for info on another topic but thought I'd throw in my 2c worth.
I had the same idea to use the old bearing race to drive in the new one and figured beforehand it would be tough to get the old race out once it's driven into the hub any real distance.Adapting an old trick I knew about something similar,I used a cut off wheel to make a slot through the old race so it could be squeezed together a bit after it was inside the hub to make extraction easier.It came out really easy when squeezed with a pair of channel locks and twisted out and total investment was $0.00.
 
use 1-1/2" PVC coupler to drive the inner raced in and I think 1" for the outer race. Worked perfect for me. Cost 50 cents from the local hardware store. :)
 
Many different ways to install new races and using the old ones is just one way but if you do use an old race, use a 'soft' hammer on them. They are very hard and hard metal means brittle and can chip sending shards into your eyes or skin. On replacing the nuts etc. I inspect them and if they look good, they go back on but the cotter pin always gets replaced. The nuts etc do not have any torque on them to speak of and so they rarely get abused unless a bearing fails and then you will most likely need to replace everything including the spindle.
 
Looks like an older thread.
But for reference, I spent 99 dollars on the floor model years ago.
This one is currently 74.
Best 99 dollar tool I ever got.
Don't like pounding bearings and things in. They cock or something too.
And for a front end, it's "a must".
 

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I bought my bearings at AZ, they lend the tool for free. Made it easy. Here is another thought. The races usually are fine, just replace the bearing. G
 
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