Replacing hood frame

[areibel]

I've got a 69 Charger hood that looks good on top but is a mess underneath. There are two or three areas in the sub structure that is rusted and needs sectioned in. I've found another B body hood for a donor, but I'm getting paranoid about welding it with the hood together. I was thinking about separating the skin from the frame, welding up the frame and then reassembling the hood with Fusor? Does the hood need the structural strength of welds? It's all a body shop instructor's fault, he always said whatever you do, Don't screw up the hood! You'll have to look at your mistake every time you're in the car.

 

[snakeyes]

:worthless_thread: photos would help alot

 

[dsd1967]

I would separate it in a heartbeat. There's only about two dozen spot welds around the perimeter to break. It gives you the chance to patch up the underside framework, sandblast and prime both sides of the framework, and the opportunity to DA and fully prime the underside of the hood skin. I would just reweld the spot welds back when done.

I did this to a 69 dart power bulge hood and it is a lot less effort than you think.

 

[67 coronet]

like dsd1967 said,ther is no reason not to be able to do this.i would spot weld it back together rather then an epoxy type seal though.hoods tend to flex more then other pannels(not many attachment points)and sealer could crack.

 

[Donny]

Its a big hood, and a big task to separate the hood from the frame. You'll have a large piece of sheetmetal that is VERY flexible! Getting the hood back together again is tough, it's easy to assemble it 'warped', be careful.

 

[areibel]

Thanks for he responses!
I actually think it looks a lot easier to separate it and fix it than to try welding in sections with the skin on. There are three bad spots, one near the passenger hinge mount, one on the drivers side about half way up and around where the latch mounts. The trick will be keeping it all straiaght, but if I do one section at a time and fit the patches nice and close it can be metal finished and not need filler. The skin was already starting to get a bow because of the weakness, no kinks though and I don't think it's stretched. If I can lay it out upside down on a blanket on the floor I can drill out the welds and then leave the skin sit. It looks like I'll weld the spots back in, maybe use some adhesive in place of the sealant between the frame and skin? ANd I'm going to tack in some eighth inch flat stock across the weak areas to hold it together when I'm pulling it apart, that should keep it from breaking up and help getting the length right?

 

[roadrunnerman]

Just don't spot weld while it is on the blanket. Did that while repairing a fender when it was sitting on my air hose. WHOOPS!!