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Replacing inner front wheel bearings

Vanderstel

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67 Satellite, front drum brakes

I just replaced the outer bearings but I'm still getting noise.

To get to the inner bearings, does the brake assembly need to come off?

Any pictures?
 
Nope. Just pull the drum and the bearings are in the back.
1695424288077.png
 
Uh, you really need to replace the races also! Take out and change the inner
seal and remove the tapered Timken roller bearings. Then, knock out the races from behind
with a long punch. Clean everything and re-install the races making sure they're seated all
the way! Re-pack the bearings, install them, and tap in the rear seal. Re-assemble and follow
the instructions on how to pre-load the bearings!
 
just a FYI ....

purchase the race installation tool kit. there are 8 or 9 different size pieces included and work very well.
if you try doing this without this tool you will mess up the races .

DO NOT try using an old race turned upside down, or use a bearing to seat them.
at some point - even you get them driven down flush what the hub lip, they still need to got down at least another 1/8" or so.

plus the tool can also be used to press in the seals in w/o f^$* them up.
just flip the race component upside down on the installation tool

My two cents .....

Bill

FF3F6739-AA2F-48DD-BCF4-467BC1506B62.jpeg


40442801-3D84-4CB9-B470-24210629EEB9.jpeg
 
just a FYI ....

purchase the race installation tool kit. there are 8 or 9 different size pieces included and work very well.
if you try doing this without this tool you will mess up the races .

DO NOT try using an old race turned upside down, or use a bearing to seat them.
at some point - even you get them driven down flush what the hub lip, they still need to got down at least another 1/8" or so.

plus the tool can also be used to press in the seals in w/o f^$* them up.
just flip the race component upside down on the installation tool

My two cents .....

Bill

View attachment 1528874

View attachment 1528875
It makes me nervous not knowing what the op doesn't know
 
Last edited:
Uh, you really need to replace the races also! Take out and change the inner
seal and remove the tapered Timken roller bearings. Then, knock out the races from behind
with a long punch. Clean everything and re-install the races making sure they're seated all
the way! Re-pack the bearings, install them, and tap in the rear seal. Re-assemble and follow
the instructions on how to pre-load the bearings!
YES....The only thing holding the inner wheel bearing is the grease seal. As described previously, knock out the inner wheel bearing and the seal pops out. Again, using a long drift pin, tap out the inner wheel bearing race (cup); do the same for the outer wheel bearing race (cup). Clean out all the old grease from the hub snd spindle. Install the inner bearing race (cup) and the outer bearing race using a BRASS drift pin to avoid damage to bearing races. REPACK THE INNER BEARING CUP (ROLLER ASSEMBLY) and OUTER BEARING CUP (ROLLER ASSEMBLY) using a high temperature wheel bearing grease (personal preference: Mobil One Synthetic grease. NLG #2). Install the inner bearing roller bearing in the hub, install the grease seal, insuring that the lip faces the the correct direction...apply a small bit of grease on the seal face....the seal will hold the inner wheel bearing assembly in place. Place the hub on the spindle...use care that the spindle threads fo not damage the lip seal. Install the outer wheel bearing onto the spindle with the washer and castellated (slotted nut), .....tighten the nut until there is no axial movement while rotating the hub to seat the roller BEARINGS.....IMPORTANT....THERE MUST BE 0.002" - 0.004" END PLAY OR AXIAL MOVEMENT IN THE BEARINGS to allow for thermal expansion when in operation. Install a new cotter pin in the slotted nut when the bearing end play is set. Install the hub cover on the assembly. THE WHEEL BEARINGS MUST HAVE END PLAY (0.002" - 0.004") OR BEARING FAILURE WILL OCCUR. FOLLOW THE FSM PROCEDURES AND RECOMMENDATIONS.
All of these procedures are outlined in the FSM......suggest you read snd review them b4 proceeding. Both the bearing assemblies should be installed with the corresponding races.....do not mix old and new components......just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
Do I just pack the bearings with grease and nothing more in the hub? or do I fill the hub with grease?

The service manual says "Fill the grease cavity with recommended wheel bearing lubricant"

Hub.png
 
you should put lubricant in the hub

however - don't over do it. When the assembly gets hot the grease loosens up and flows around.

Bill
 
Do I just pack the bearings with grease and nothing more in the hub? or do I fill the hub with grease?

The service manual says "Fill the grease cavity with recommended wheel bearing lubricant"

View attachment 1529037
If you are packing your new bearings with regular non synthetic grease and you did not have a bearing ( grinding or in pieces)
You can take a couple shop rags and wipe out that cavity and replace with new grease.
If you had bearing fail you will want to completely flush and clean the inner hub in a parts washer or a pan with solvent or fuel oil.
 
Do I just pack the bearings with grease and nothing more in the hub? or do I fill the hub with grease?

The service manual says "Fill the grease cavity with recommended wheel bearing lubricant"

View attachment 1529037
Do you know how to pack wheel bearings? You don't just smear some grease on them and install. THere is also a procedure for tightening the nut and getting the right load on the bearings. I was curious how the You Tubers would handle this. Well, there is some good information out there and some bad.
 
Clean the bearings well, inspect them for any damage, pack them by hand and smear some grease on the outside before installing them into the race. You don't need to fill the cavity with grease. It doesn't get into the bearings and just makes a mess. Install the castle nut and tighten by hand as you are spinning the drum. I always spin the drum anytime I am adjusting the nut. Tighten it firmly while spinning the drum/hub and loosen say a 1/4 turn. Spin and tighten again. I do this 2 or 3 times. With the nut wrench tight, not over tight, the drum/hub should spin fairly easy and smoothly. Grab the sides of the drum and pull and push in and out. If it's loose tighten the nut just a flat (1/6th of a turn) If it's too tight it will spin hard or if it does spin it will stop within a 1/4 turn. Finding the happy medium here is where you want to be. Put the cotter key in and if the hole doesn't line up loosen the nut slightly until it does. Remember. A little loose is better than too tight.
 
Yes, I've done it before. Service manual says 90 inch lbs while spinning the wheel.
THat's probably good. I have repacked thousands of bearings in the last 55 years and I have never had a failure and have never used a torque wrench.
 
THat's probably good. I have repacked thousands of bearings in the last 55 years and I have never had a failure and have never used a torque wrench.
Don't underestimate the reality that it took you those 55 years to build the muscle memory to do that! Experience is far too undervalued these days... respect.
 
Don't underestimate the reality that it took you those 55 years to build the muscle memory to do that! Experience is far too undervalued these days... respect.
I don't know who taught me to pack the bearings and set the spindle nut torque. I did them for a few years before I went to tech school. THere wasn't You Tube videos back then either. I don't remember doing it them shop class in High school. May be I read how in a Popular Mechanics magazine.
 
I'm doing this job soon on my 72 Charger with 10" front drums. Is there only an inner bearing seal? I don't see a front outer seal on RockAuto or O'reilly's websites.
 
I'm doing this job soon on my 72 Charger with 10" front drums. Is there only an inner bearing seal? I don't see a front outer seal on RockAuto or O'reilly's websites.
Only a inner
 
I'm doing this job soon on my 72 Charger with 10" front drums. Is there only an inner bearing seal? I don't see a front outer seal on RockAuto or O'reilly's websites.
Why replace the bearings? Are they damaged?
 
Why replace the bearings? Are they damaged?

The bearing seals were missing and I remember seeing signs of wear. They felt fine the last time I drove the car, twenty years ago, but since I've rebuilt and upgraded the suspension I'm going to put new bearings in while I'm at it.
 
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