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Reproduction Upper Control Arms

Rob'68Net

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Location
Johnstown, Pa
Has anyone used a factory style repro upper control arm? Is the quality any good? Rebuilding front suspension on a '69 Bee, and wondering if I should replace upper arms with new, or put new bushings and ball joints in the factory arms. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks!!
 
It does depend on your goals for the car,
Stock OEM restoration or a cruiser, the stock parts work fine.
If your parts are damaged and need replacements, the reproductions might be a smart move.
Finally, if you're into improved performance, aftermarket UCAs with improved caster built in are an excellent idea. You'll get the ability to get alignment settings closer to what modern cars have.
 
Reuse what you have unless they are too rusty.
Or what Kern says.
 
I used reproductions restoring my Bee as my OE's were beat. The reproductions themselves were good and powder coated, but the upper control arm bushings are junk.. pushed them out with my fingers and installed new ones from PST. I also replaced the unknown ball joint with PST's for safe measure. What was there was probably fine, but I had the entire front end kit from PST so why not.
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Dang....Wayne is the complete opposite of a buddy of mine.
This guy I know installs almost everything in it's "junkyard fresh" appearance with dirt and grease fully intact.
Nice work, sir.
 
It does depend on your goals for the car,
Stock OEM restoration or a cruiser, the stock parts work fine.
If your parts are damaged and need replacements, the reproductions might be a smart move.
Finally, if you're into improved performance, aftermarket UCAs with improved caster built in are an excellent idea. You'll get the ability to get alignment settings closer to what modern cars have.
What he said.
 
Dang....Wayne is the complete opposite of a buddy of mine.
This guy I know installs almost everything in it's "junkyard fresh" appearance with dirt and grease fully intact.
Nice work, sir.
Maybe your buddy wants to keep it looking like an old original used car?
 
Maybe your buddy wants to keep it looking like an old original used car?
It has always made me shake my head, that guy....
Yeah, I've seen him install transmissions, rear axles and even complete front disc brake change-overs without so much as passing a wire brush across anything. He is a great guy but the guy reminds me of Oscar Madison to my Felix Unger.
 
Thanks for the detailed pics ! Yes my concern was the fit/quality of the bushings in the control arm, and also the quality of the ball joint. The steel stamped factory arms I am working with are in pretty good shape. I think I will just clean them up, re-spray them and install good quality parts. I appreciate the info. !!
 
Ive used a couple set of the repops on previous builds and have no complaints .
To my knowledge they are still intact with no issues
 
Life is a lot easier with the bushing removal and installation tool shown.
If you're changing the upper ball joint do it with the control arm still on the car, it takes much grunting to break it loose. Start the new joint by hand to avoid cross threading. Upper ball joint takes a special socket.
 
I used reproductions restoring my Bee as my OE's were beat. The reproductions themselves were good and powder coated, but the upper control arm bushings are junk.. pushed them out with my fingers and installed new ones from PST. I also replaced the unknown ball joint with PST's for safe measure. What was there was probably fine, but I had the entire front end kit from PST so why not.
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Where did you get the bushing tool?
 
Where did you get the bushing tool?
PST also has the repro control arms and a 10% discount for members here, they have a click ad on the main page which takes you to their site. And the socket tool as well $48.00 I think it was.

Will be following your thread with interest as I'm just about to do the front end, ucl,lca, balljoints etc on my 71 Charger. Last one I did was back in 2012 on my old 68 Charger, probably have forgotten a few things by now.

Likely I will order the full PST package though with 4x shocks and rear spring hangers too.
 
I bought the repops. Looked pretty good. I swapped out the bushings for moog offset bushings. Also replaced the ball joints with moog. ISSUE- One of the ball joints (left side) was cross threaded so threads are shot and my new ball joint won’t tighten up. Sucks.
 
Has anyone used a factory style repro upper control arm? Is the quality any good? Rebuilding front suspension on a '69 Bee, and wondering if I should replace upper arms with new, or put new bushings and ball joints in the factory arms. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks!!
The cheap rock auto sets look great but fit is not good. A waste of money. They rub on the frame tabs at the inner bushings and the bushing that comes with them is 3/4" inside diameter instead of 1/2". I fail to see a difference in these cheapo arms and the over priced ones from name brand sellers....maybe a grease zerk. They are around $400 a set. rip off. The do not allow any more caster and they are heavier the stock arms. I bought them as a time savings over rebuilding the stock arms. I finally rebuild the stockers and am WAY happier. I just cant get much caster at alll.....max at 1.5 degrees. oh well. 1971 Coronet.

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Where did you get the bushing tool?
Get creative...I used all thread and an old crush sleeve with a few washers. Muscle building exercise for sure. The biggest issue is the socket for the ball joints and ratchet. Nice having mopar buddies to borrow stuff like that from.

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My new set just arrived at the doors not 5 minutes ago. At first glance they look great. After reading what Wayne wrote about the bushings. I had to check them out first. Tight, very tight. As far as I could tell. So the new offset bushings pushed right into the "reproduction" control arms? Also the new balljoint screwed right in? No problem? So if a fella had to rebuild these the specs/dimensions are the same??

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My new set just arrived at the doors not 5 minutes ago. At first glance they look great. After reading what Wayne wrote about the bushings. I had to check them out first. Tight, very tight. As far as I could tell. So the new offset bushings pushed right into the "reproduction" control arms? Also the new balljoint screwed right in? No problem? So if a fella had to rebuild these the specs/dimensions are the same??

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The offset bushings pressed in fine. I found out through research that my stock ball joints were not cross threaded, but that they are a different thread than the Moog upper ball joint. One of mine torqued to spec, the other stripped out.
 
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