Restoring a 64 steering wheel questions

[miller]

If anyone has fooled with one, maybe a clue, or two. Steering wheel off my 64 Sport Fury.

This one has hairline cracks I gotta deal with, but wondering about where the four metal rings fit on the wheel. Two of the grooves, where the rings fit, are spread apart, making the grooves too wide. Those grooves 'should' be located at a peak of the finger grips, on the backside of the wheel. Just asking what others have done, to fix it, to look right?

Other question...the 'plastic' material on the wheel. It's not hard plastic, acts more like nylon, with slight flex. Any thoughts?

 

[64BEL]

Check out this thread with pics from when my daughter and I restored ours. It's been 2 years and it still looks good, but it does have some small cracks in it. The paint we used was mixed up in a rattle can by a local parts store. I think it would have held up better by using a spray gun like for painting a car. Still happy with it, though.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/steering-wheel-restoration.70086/

 

[miller]

Much appreciated, 64BEL!

Yeah, the pics in your post show my wheel is just as bad. Lol, some of that 50 year stuff. Well, I'm gonna tackle it, if nothing else, to get me by for now. Car is just a driver, so no show, or anything like that. Have a couple ideas on it, I'll probably try, like the paint I'll use on it.
Sure can't afford no $1500...especially just on a steering wheel. (Old and retired)

 

[64BEL]

Good luck with it Miller and let me know if I can help answer any questions you may have.

 

[miller]

Thanks, 64BEL! Sorry for the slow response...had to go out of town for a few days (again).

 

[FU64RY]

If anyone has fooled with one, maybe a clue, or two. Steering wheel off my 64 Sport Fury.

This one has hairline cracks I gotta deal with, but wondering about where the four metal rings fit on the wheel. Two of the grooves, where the rings fit, are spread apart, making the grooves too wide. Those grooves 'should' be located at a peak of the finger grips, on the backside of the wheel. Just asking what others have done, to fix it, to look right?

Other question...the 'plastic' material on the wheel. It's not hard plastic, acts more like nylon, with slight flex. Any thoughts?

PC7.... did my 64 savoy 3 years ago with it and just now showing some hairline cracks, I used body paint, not rattle can.

 

[miller]

Yeah on the PC7, though first time I've used it. Only will go 'some' areas. One of the two spokes fully cracked up the sides, 1/4" wide. Filled those in. One long crack along the inside of the ring, I'll have to carve out, to fill in.

But, with all the hairline cracks (many), think I'm going to find some of the newer type thin plastic model glue. Think filling in the hairlines, and the bonding, might work.

Finally, am going to consider using plastic/vinyl paint, on top of a coat of flexible bonding clear. The finish on the wheel is not shiny hard plastic, but toned down some, even with a light texture. We shall see...

 

[Goldwing1800]

Miller-I redid my 67 Bel wheel two years ago. Mine was full of cracks-plus-I wasn't happy with the small thickness of the wheel-about 3/4". I used marine grade 2 part epoxy and fiberglass cloth-the epoxy is thin enough to drizzle into small cracks, and once the cracks were built up I started layering the glass cloth to build the thickness. I didn't wrap the cloth around the finger grips-but went across the top of the wheel with small pieces of cloth from finger grip to finger grip (hopefully you can understand that.) I spent about 6 weeks of spare time doing the layers and got the thickness to about 1 1/8"-made a huge difference in the way it feels-but it looks like it is stone stock! And that's what I was after. I did have a buddy paint it with regular automotive black and catalyzed clear-I had tried a rattle can finish before and the paint got weird from the oil and sweat from my hands. I don't have before and after pics-but I can get a picture to you of the finished piece. I had about $40 in the epoxy, the glass cloth I've had forever and a couple bucks and a case of beer for the paint job-holding good so far.

 

[miller]

Appreciate all that, Goldwing1800! Yeah, I'm right with you on the beer...dash of Jack, now and then, too.

Funny thing on this wheel is, on the ring itself, and only a small part of the spokes, seems to have some kind of clear flexible coating on it. Stock? Anyway, you can tell the dif, between the ring, and the spokes/hub. Darker, aged, cracks, and looks like it's gonna be alot of fun getting that stuff off. Don't like sanding...wants to roll.
If you can picture it (know where that's gonna go), almost looks like the ring of the wheel had been dipped into that coating.
Back at it...

 

[Goldwing1800]

Miller-sounds like someone was in there before you. You might try an aerosol de-greaser and see what that does-plus the de-greaser should be used regardless before trying to get anything to stick to it-like paint or epoxy or whatever. Good luck! FWIW-This was the second time I tried to repair the wheel-the first time I tried PC7 but it only lasted about a year. I have an idea the glass cloth I used might help to reinforce the original plastic somewhat??? As long as it works I'm good with it.

 

[miller]

Thanks! Can't say for certain, if the wheel had been worked before, but don't think so.
Any rate, yeah, I'll be taking it down to the bone. Even tried a little carb cleaner on that coating I mentioned. Real thin, but feels slightly flexible, darkened some areas.

Loads of fun! Gettin' it done.

 

[miller]

A little update...or, one of those for what it's worth.

Changed my mind on the glue bit, and don't think much on the PC7 not lasting. So, I decided to test some stuff I used to fix cracks in a concrete floor!
I've already used PC7 on the big cracks, at the spokes. Tested 6" of the ring, some full cracks, and hairlines, using Loctite heavy duty 5 min. epoxy. Comes in the box, two separate bottles, resin/hardner, 1/2 of each to mix. Only mix enough for the 5 min. working time. Sets in 5 min., and needs 24 hours to fully cure...before cutting it.
On my test area, on all the cracks, liked the way it acted. The 5 minutes gives it enough time to flow fully into the cracks, filling them. Using 1/4" wooden dowel rod, cut into 5" pieces, to both mix, and apply, using the cut end of the rods.
Once cured, a fine cut file, and 220 grit sandpaper for cutting it flush with the surface. Holding real good, and fairly easy to work! (I'll let ya know, a couple years down the road.)
The epoxy says 'for most plastics', though also says a few, it won't work on. Of course, I don't know the plastic type on the wheel...but, so far, it's working.

 

[dvw]

I used Plexus, then Bondo. Ground the cracks wide down to the metal core. It's holding up well, year 5
Doug

 

[64BEL]

Beautiful work, dvw!

 

[miller]

X2! Looks great!

Pretty much have my wheel (ring) covered with the epoxy, cured, work it back into shape now. At the least...getting some great ideas tossed around.