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retro fitting a stock A/C system to R134A

retiredguy

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Has any one used R134A on an original V2 compressor type. Read something about needing to change temp valve in compressor and oil type. What is the best kit to buy to do this. This is a 69 GTX 440 numbers matching car. Don't want to replace compressor with new style. Any suggestions?
 
Has any one used R134A on an original V2 compressor type. Read something about needing to change temp valve in compressor and oil type. What is the best kit to buy to do this. This is a 69 GTX 440 numbers matching car. Don't want to replace compressor with new style. Any suggestions?
I have a 62 Dart with factory air that got converted to R134A. Contact CLASSIC AUTO AIR 5133 W. IDLEWILD AVE. TAMPA, FL 33634. They have everything that you will need and full instructions that are easy to follow. Here are a couple of pictures of my set up.
Has any one used R134A on an original V2 compressor type. Read something about needing to change temp valve in compressor and oil type. What is the best kit to buy to do this. This is a 69 GTX 440 numbers matching car. Don't want to replace compressor with new style. Any suggestions?
Contact CLASSIC AUTO AIR 5133 W. IDLEWILD AVE. TAMPA, FL 33634. They have everything you need to convert your original system to R134A. Here are a couple of pictures of my car with factory air. Works great

20140817_143011.jpg 20140817_143109.jpg
 
Classic in Tampa does have a huge inventory. But with R12 available, why convert?
 
I have been doing conversions sense 1992. Back then they wanted you to change every thing and over the years it got less and less that you have to change. Sense 2000 we have just been putting in pag oil with out draining the old oil and replacing the fittings or installing adapters so you can install the R134A gauges. Do a full evac add the oil and charge with R134 you are done.
 
Classic auto air or antique auto air are good sources. I believe you must replace the receiver/drier assembly because the desiccant retains a large quantity of the old oil. You also must remove the evaporator pressure regulator assembly in the compressors intake. Flushing the condenser and evaporator is a good idea in addition to compressor to remove all traces of thr oil. Refill with the correct amount of the pao lubricant. Evacuate to 100 microns to rrmove all traces of moisture b4 recharging. R134a operates under different pressures and temperatures so be careful of the amount of refrigerant added to avoid flooding the evaporator . You may need to replace the TXV inlet vslve with different superheat characteristics.....ask your equipment supplier. R134a will cool as well as R12 if set up correctly. Keep us posted as to your installation success.
Bob Renton
 
You guys can replace all the parts you want, I been doing nothing other than recover, evac, add the pag oil and charge for 15 years. Only one time a guy brought his car in and said no one could fix it, The dryer kept freezing up. After a while we found it had way to much oil in it so we had to pull the condenser and blow it out and we replaced the dryer that was it, then we did a long evac and charged it. We then did all his service work from that point on and the system never needed charged and never failed.
 
The last time I looked into the availablity of R12 it was pricey at approximately $100+ per pound.....if it could be found. The original Mopar system took approximately 4 1/2 pounds of R12, or charge the system to a clear sight glass on the receiver plus 1/2 pound. If an existing R12 system is to be opened for service, the refrigerate must be recovered (per EPA protocol). But b4 the recovered refrigerant is reintroduced back into the system, it should be tested for moisture and acid to avoid contamination or system degradation.
Which is better...R12 vs R134a....because of future availability my preference is R134a....but it depends on one's prior success rate but as time goes by cost will be the driving factor.....but....this is just my thoughts and opinion.
Bob Renton
 
I'd still put the real deal in. $129 for 3 12 oz cans ebay. People stocked up near the end. There is plenty to be found for less.
 
My car was converted to R34a when I bought it - which I think may have just consisted of changing out the ports. However, it was frequently leaking down and having to be recharged. Finally it blew the compressor seal about 2005 - which at the time I understood was common for original compressors changed to R34a. I had a new seal installed and disassembled the whole system and flushed it with mineral oil I think, changed out all the O-rings and put a new drier on it and held a vacuum on it for a couple days. A mechanic buddy bought a bunch of R12 and charged it for me and gave me about 4 extra cans to hang on to. With his discounts I don't recall the R12a being all that expensive but this was about 12 - 13 years ago. I haven't had to touch it since then. My 2 cents is stick with R12 and see if you can find a mechanic who will get a decent price on it and pass it on to you.
 
I'm not a fan of 134a conversions. Some cars still cool fairly well others not so much. Only correct way is to go with modern components. 134a molecules are smaller and tend to leak through r12 hoses. Pressures run higher which will stress compressors. Almost every 134a system will utilize an electric fan to control high side pressures. Pressure gets high cooling goes away. If you have a system that has been gone through and doesn't leak I'd stick with r12 b or buy a complete modern retrofitted system.
 
Yes you need to use a trinary switch to control the cooling fan and the compressor and very easy to install.
 
One must pay attention to the amount of R134a that is recharged into the system. Thr person that noted that R134a systems require Electric fans in not totally accurate with his assessment, most FWD cars use electric fans and most electric fans run most of the time to maintain a constant air flow across the condensor, to maintain a constant condensing rate and an adequate supply of liquid R134a to the evaporator. There are exceptions of course...one cannot assume that a "one size fits all" fix but one must do their own due diligence and determine what's best for their own situation. There are too many "experts" that feel that their solution to a problem is the only solution. I'm sure that some of these "experts" have no knowledge of thermodynamics or Boyl's Law relating to temperatures, pressures and volumes, or anything about refrigeration systems. Also, btw, the correct lubricant to use with an R134a system is POE or polyoyl ester.
But, of course, this is just my opinion.....
Bob Renton
 
Have never done a retro but what I know is the drier has to be replaced. Way too much of old r-12 oil will still be in it. It's the main repository of oil, maybe 2-3ozs of oil are in condenser&evaporator. I do remember reading that r-12 hoses will leak r-134 because they're not the same.
 
I have a bunch of R12, but the problem I have is that no one I can find can evacuate and old system due to the different charging ports.
 
RC- and the years go by. Find an old car garage with the necessary hose connectors? Just like an old Sun dristributor machine,etc.?? R-12 has been gone for 20+ yrs.?? Most people will be throwing the hose fittings away.I don't like it but that's the way it is.
 
I have a bunch of R12, but the problem I have is that no one I can find can evacuate and old system due to the different charging ports.
Run it into a tree! That will empty it out, I know a few people that have done that! LOL
 
Run it into a tree! That will empty it out, I know a few people that have done that! LOL



The system is empty already & the compressor is out being rebuilt at Classic Air, but no one I can find has the fittings for the old R12 systems.
 
RC if you ever move into the new house/garage maybe somebody in the new state will have the fittings!
 
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