reverse light/ neutral safety switch install

[tpodwdog]

hi guys...THE DAWWWWWWWWG again... since my Javelin has a 904 mopar tranny in it...im asking this question.

a while back i put in a new tranny switch ( 3 pronger new style ) for the back up lights neutral thingy. with a test light i tested it and the only thing working is the neutral safety circuit part of the switch (center prong to ground) . when i installed it, it didnt go in that easy...the car was in park when i installed it.....and maybe i think thats why the back up lights circuit may not be working in a brand new switch .

today i am going to change the tranny fluid and filter and while im in there i am putting in another new switch and see if something is missing or wrong....coz I REALLY WANT THE BACK UP LIGHTS TO WORK the way theyre supposed to and not put them on a switch.

im heading to NAPA and picking up the new switch, and while im gone im hoping someone can shed some light on how to put in the new switch without me destroying this one too.

ALSO:...when the Javelin shifts from 2nd to 3rd under hard acceleration...it hits a dead spot (like neutral) feeling on the shift. im thinking theres a band that needs a little tightening....am i correct in this assumption...and how do i tighten the band from 2 to 3 gear ? im no tranny guy fer shure!

thanx GURU's !:headbang:

 

[ply64post]

Backup switch

Dawg

I have installed many switches just like you said. With switch installed check your 2 outer connection on the switch[with wiring plug disconnected] with an ohm meter,should have continuity in reverse and no continuity in any other position.If you have continuity in reverse position then you have a problem somewhere else,wiring, ground,or even bulbs or sockets.If you have no continuity the detent that actuates the switch would be the problem.

Jeff

 

[tpodwdog]

well...i figgered out the reverse lights not working. wait til you hear this....

on that 3 prong switch, theres 2 plungers....one tiny metal one in the center ( controls the reverse lights)...and one plastic one surrounding the metal pin (neutral safety). in my tranny the switch really wasnt the problem....it was that small metal pin ON the switch and this is what it was doing.

when put in REVERSE....there is a detent that allows the pin plunger to fully extend (allowing current flow to the reverse lights ). my tranny WAS NOT ALLOWING IT TO FULLY EXTEND...thus breaking the circuit. heres how i had to fix it ...........

i had to grind down the middle plunger pin so that it was NOT making contact with the detent and allowing current to flow to the reverse lights like its supposed to......

what it was doing instead was pushing the plunger in ...just enuff to break contact.....i have 2 switches and both were doing the same thing. so i decided to grind the middle pin down a bit on one of them ....threw it in the tranny....and VOILAAAAAAAAAAAAAA....current . i knew the harness i made was working ( harness was GONE when i got the car ). so all is well in Javelin land....changed the tranny fluid and filter and gasket....and got the reverse lights working when its in reverse....like its supposed to....I LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER !

 

[747mopar]

Hey dog, I've got a question since your playing with your tranny switch. I'm rewiring my whole car at the moment and was wondering how that switch works (don't have one handy to test). You've explained the reverse switch part of it but how does the neutral safety work? You would think two switches would mean four pins not three, how does it act as a neutral safety with only one wire or does it share the same 12V supply used for the reverse switch. Debating on using it or the switches on my B&M shifter. Thanks

 

[Jasoncoronet]

The two outer pins power flows from one outer pin to the other outer pin. The center pin is only a ground for the relay. If you hook the wire from the relay to any where on the chassis the car will start in any gear. When in neutral or park the pin will be in contact with the internal shift lever which just woks as a ground. I am also wiring my car now and learning allot i think. I hope this helps or better yet makes sense.

 

[HT413]

The two outer pins power flows from one outer pin to the other outer pin. The center pin is only a ground for the relay. If you hook the wire from the relay to any where on the chassis the car will start in any gear. When in neutral or park the pin will be in contact with the internal shift lever which just woks as a ground. I am also wiring my car now and learning allot i think. I hope this helps or better yet makes sense.

Yup, it only works though with the correct starter solenoid that has the 4th prong for ground. When you ground that prong the starter solenoid wont close, so no start. My car came with a 3 prong solenoid that deletes the ground prong (not sure its application but it wont work with my nss.)


Good one


Bad one

 

[tpodwdog]

Hey dog, I've got a question since your playing with your tranny switch. I'm rewiring my whole car at the moment and was wondering how that switch works (don't have one handy to test). You've explained the reverse switch part of it but how does the neutral safety work? You would think two switches would mean four pins not three, how does it act as a neutral safety with only one wire or does it share the same 12V supply used for the reverse switch. Debating on using it or the switches on my B&M shifter. Thanks

theres only one switch that controls 2 things......back up lights and neutral safety.this switch has 3 pins (new type).

REVERSE LIGHTS....power to one OUTSIDE pin from fuse box....other OUTSIDE pin goes to the actual reverse lights and grounds on the body.

NEUTRAL SAFETY.... provides a ground TO THE STARTER SOLENOID... this is the center pin.

- - - Updated - - -

Yup, it only works though with the correct starter solenoid that has the 4th prong for ground. When you ground that prong the starter solenoid wont close, so no start. My car came with a 3 prong solenoid that deletes the ground prong (not sure its application but it wont work with my nss.)


Good one
View attachment 102567

Bad one
View attachment 102566

ya got that backwards....the starter relay GETS a ground thru the neutral safety switch...providing a complete circuit, allowing the starter to engage....but only in park or neutral.

 

[HT413]

Dog, i'm glad you mentioned that... makes much more sense how they just grounded to the body on the other solenoid... My way it wouldnt work. I've been thinkning about installing a simple kill switch using the ground leg so i can kill the ignition without running any real voltage to the kill switch and without monkeying with ignition wiring under the dash. Thoughts?

 

[tpodwdog]

if you put a kill switch (common toggle on/off switch ) someplace in the wire from the neutral safety switch (center pin).. and where that wire goes on the starter relay, you would have a very effective mechanism with absolutely NO voltage.

 

[747mopar]

Thanks guys, that makes my decision simple. I kinda wondered if they where just using it as a ground but didn't know anything about the relay, it all makes sense now. I'm using an aftermarket (American Made) wiring harness and a mini starter that has the solenoid on it so I will just use the switches on the B&M shifter for both rev and neutral safety. Thanks

 

[tpodwdog]

Thanks guys, that makes my decision simple. I kinda wondered if they where just using it as a ground but didn't know anything about the relay, it all makes sense now. I'm using an aftermarket (American Made) wiring harness and a mini starter that has the solenoid on it so I will just use the switches on the B&M shifter for both rev and neutral safety. Thanks

just remember, electricity travels in a big circle POWER-SWITCH-LOAD-GROUND....thats all ya gotta remember with wiring up pretty much anything thats basic.

 

[mopwrd340]

If some one wanted to start the car all they need is a jumper wire from the coil to the battery and a screwdriver to jump the solenoid i would interupt power to the distributor some how. but if you think about the younger generation probaly couldnt figure this out .alot of us older guys know how to do this,

 

[HT413]

If some one wanted to start the car all they need is a jumper wire from the coil to the battery and a screwdriver to jump the solenoid i would interupt power to the distributor some how. but if you think about the younger generation probaly couldnt figure this out .alot of us older guys know how to do this,

Great point, I've turned that over in my head for a while now. Part of me likes the simplicity of it - kind of like a little joke on the would-be joy rider for when I leave it out unattended for a few hours playing some golf - instead of yanking the coil wire. For in the garage I pull a small spade fuse near the electronic ignition box. It'll take a thief hours to find that little guy.

 

[747mopar]

If some one wanted to start the car all they need is a jumper wire from the coil to the battery and a screwdriver to jump the solenoid i would interupt power to the distributor some how. but if you think about the younger generation probaly couldnt figure this out .alot of us older guys know how to do this,

Funny you should say that, I was actually thinking about interrupting the 6AL ign instead of solenoid. I saw Ron Francis has kits to make it where you have to turn something else on before your car will start, wipers, brake light, heater, you can use anything to trigger it. It could easily be done with a relay "just a thought"