Rewiring harness

[6one9er]

Ok, I guess I'll start by saying hi everyone I'm new here and new to the B Body scene. Thanks in advance for any help, And I appreciate your patience.
So the issue, My brother-in-law just came into possession of a 72 Dodge charger 318, with me having a mechanic's background. He asked me to help since he went to start his car the other day and saw smoke coming out of the engine and from the dash and turned the car off immediately and removed the battery. When I went to look at it the other day I can see that the blue wire coming out of the alternator. The voltage regulator and going to the firewall was melted along with one red wire, although I didn't really look to see what that red wire went to. I did look under the dash and of course the red and black wire going to the ammeter were completely melted so it's either putting in a new harness or only replacing the wires that are damaged. Either way the dash has to come off. My question for all of you educated folk around here that have possibly done this job or have done this job for somebody else would be how much to charge for labor?
I'll put some photos up of the damage. Behind the instrument cluster, voltage regulator, and alternator

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Welcome to FBBO!

 

[ckessel]

Welcome from the central coast. I see....rewiring the car in your future. You may be able to repair/replace that area but to me, the car is 52 years old. Boot the old stuff and sketchy fixes/add ons and start over. Cuts down on electrical gremlins. Plus if you're going to do some updates like EFI/boombox/electric windows/ac/electric fans etc, you can get a wiring package that will allow for this.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Welcome from Alabama, tuff job. I assume you know that the windshield has to be removed to remove the dash, as well as drop the column. First I would try removing the front seat and access the damage more.

 

[polywideblock]

G'day from Australia

 

[451Mopar]

Main ignition power. Check for shorts at alternator and dash Ammeter. Check if fusible link burnt. If the short happened while the engine was running, the fusible link just stops Battery power, but not the Alternator power.
On some of my cars, with high output alternators, I bypass the dash ammeter and run the alternator output directly to the Battery. Then all power to the dash has to go through the fusible link, but I also put the main ignition, headlights, and other high current loads through fused relays.
I didn't fuse the wire between alternator and battery, but maybe I should add a mega-fuse to that too. Otherwise the wire becomes the fusible link.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Ok, I guess I'll start by saying hi everyone I'm new here and new to the B Body scene. Thanks in advance for any help, And I appreciate your patience.
So the issue, My brother-in-law just came into possession of a 72 Dodge charger 318, with me having a mechanic's background. He asked me to help since he went to start his car the other day and saw smoke coming out of the engine and from the dash and turned the car off immediately and removed the battery. When I went to look at it the other day I can see that the blue wire coming out of the alternator. The voltage regulator and going to the firewall was melted along with one red wire, although I didn't really look to see what that red wire went to. I did look under the dash and of course the red and black wire going to the ammeter were completely melted so it's either putting in a new harness or only replacing the wires that are damaged. Either way the dash has to come off. My question for all of you educated folk around here that have possibly done this job or have done this job for somebody else would be how much to charge for labor?
I'll put some photos up of the damage. Behind the instrument cluster, voltage regulator, and alternator

View attachment 1693423

View attachment 1693424

View attachment 1693425

Welcome from the Midwest

 

[6one9er]

Welcome from the central coast. I see....rewiring the car in your future. You may be able to repair/replace that area but to me, the car is 52 years old. Boot the old stuff and sketchy fixes/add ons and start over. Cuts down on electrical gremlins. Plus if you're going to do some updates like EFI/boombox/electric windows/ac/electric fans etc, you can get a wiring package that will allow for this.

View attachment 1693434I see your point on just updating/upgrading but the brother in law wants to keep her as stock as possible... "Costumer is always right" and all that. I've already decided to do the job just not sure how much to charge and couldn't get a quote from any shops around me because they won't touch a car that old with a 10ft pole

 

[6one9er]

Welcome from Alabama, tuff job. I assume you know that the windshield has to be removed to remove the dash, as well as drop the column. First I would try removing the front seat and access the damage more.

Yeah I'm planning on struggling more with the bolts on top of the dash instead of taking the windshield off... Dropping The steering wheel is fine with me as far as I can see it's 3 bolts/nuts under the dash and the couple bolts on the firewall and I will have all the space I need

 

[6one9er]

Main ignition power. Check for shorts at alternator and dash Ammeter. Check if fusible link burnt. If the short happened while the engine was running, the fusible link just stops Battery power, but not the Alternator power.
On some of my cars, with high output alternators, I bypass the dash ammeter and run the alternator output directly to the Battery. Then all power to the dash has to go through the fusible link, but I also put the main ignition, headlights, and other high current loads through fused relays.
I didn't fuse the wire between alternator and battery, but maybe I should add a mega-fuse to that too. Otherwise the wire becomes the fusible link.

I tested the ammeter and sure enough she shorted out in the process it also ruined the alternator and the voltage regulator... I think you might even be able to see voltage regulator got so hot so quick it melted the circuit board inside and even looks like she leaking hahaha

 

[kiwigtx]

I tested the ammeter and sure enough she shorted out in the process it also ruined the alternator and the voltage regulator... I think you might even be able to see voltage regulator got so hot so quick it melted the circuit board inside and even looks like she leaking hahaha

And that post is justification for moving this thread from the Welcome Wagon.