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roll bars

I built mine out of Moly .083" (some bars can be as thin as .050") for weight savings. Moly must be Tig welded. DOM .120" is lighter than the standard ELW .134". Both can be mig welded. But DOM costs nearly the same as moly. I didn't use floor plates but plated the inside of the rocker. Then ran out riggers between the subframe connector and this plate. By doing it this way you can tack weld everything first. Then cut the out rigger tacks and drop the entire cage down to access the upper bars. Cutting the floor out around the outrigger and reinstalling the piece after is much easier.Brake line was used to make templates. Most tube were made long and then snuck up on the fit. Obviously a roll bar would just be less tubes. My sons car and my street car have roll bars built similar to this. The exception is the rear bars are up ar the roof as both have back seats.
Doug
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doug you do some great work. i would be a rookie with a tig and cost is not to bad for one. but is it worth it for the moly bar or just run the mild steel one would be okay.
 
Moly's only advantage is weight. Mild steel will be fine. Most kits will be ELW .134"
Doug
 
Tough to see the black roll bar in the black interior, but that’s sort of the idea. This was a main-hoop kit bought from Art Morrison, then I custom bent the rear bars and the door bar. It ended up being exactly what I wanted. I did this pulling only the seats out, and pulling the carpet back at the mounting points.

06C6A209-0A90-47A0-B0BB-26547901BBD8.jpeg 56B6BCEC-BC64-40A0-AD83-27AC61861526.jpeg 1A59C104-CD34-4F51-A1B3-58A082B25364.jpeg 37C3E7EF-E4F4-4B42-BF95-51AE045430B6.jpeg 8EC7630D-D6B6-42F6-B4A8-A7165F6A7657.jpeg A10391CE-0BF7-430C-8393-05110EB99573.jpeg
 
Tough to see the black roll bar in the black interior, but that’s sort of the idea. This was a main-hoop kit bought from Art Morrison, then I custom bent the rear bars and the door bar. It ended up being exactly what I wanted. I did this pulling only the seats out, and pulling the carpet back at the mounting points.

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Good Job !
 
Mock up picks.... I was able to cope all of my joints with nothing more than a 7-1/4” miter chop-saw, and a bench grinder. I was really happy with what I was able to do with a minimum of tooling.

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I don't have any better pics of mine then this. But its an S & W kit for my 63 Plymouth and I installed it myself. Its just a 6 point bar since my car is a street car that's all I wanted and its legal to 10 flat since it has the stock firewall. Ron

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10 Pt with a swing out/not.Maybe dom-tube 8 Pt.gets you to 8.50or560s that’s a lot.set down & figure out how fast u want to go &how much bs rules u like to jump thru.then set down & and calculate needed horsepower.youll be white as a sheet totally unnerved and feel broke if u stay with ur 64 Dodge
 
Make sure you get an NHRA rule book and follow the rules if you want a real cage that will pass inspection.
I built a chromoly cage for my race car several years ago. Has it inspected to 8.50 or slower. It’s out of date now and needs reinspected. The NHRA Guy was thorough!!!! He sonic checked all the tubing to make sure it was .083 and measured and checked all the particulars of the install 100%!

I’m an electrician by trade, so pipe bending comes naturally to me at this point. I used a greenlee bender and an NHRA rulebook, and got to it.

PS. It’s been awhile since I reviewed the rules, but I thought swing out door bars were not allowed.
 
I built mine out of Moly .083" (some bars can be as thin as .050") for weight savings. Moly must be Tig welded. DOM .120" is lighter than the standard ELW .134". Both can be mig welded. But DOM costs nearly the same as moly. I didn't use floor plates but plated the inside of the rocker. Then ran out riggers between the subframe connector and this plate. By doing it this way you can tack weld everything first. Then cut the out rigger tacks and drop the entire cage down to access the upper bars. Cutting the floor out around the outrigger and reinstalling the piece after is much easier.Brake line was used to make templates. Most tube were made long and then snuck up on the fit. Obviously a roll bar would just be less tubes. My sons car and my street car have roll bars built similar to this. The exception is the rear bars are up ar the roof as both have back seats.
Doug
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Nice work Doug! :thumbsup:
 
Sounds like the s&w bars are good to use. I might just take the pipe bender back and go with s&w a six pt for me would be plenty for now. It's nice that they have the add on as needed also in case the 64 decides to be quicker than I have planned out. You guys have been great and have very helpful in making my project come to life. Even the build is taken longer than I wish that's half the fun building it. Thanks again and always enjoy.
 
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