Roll cage and...

[1967coronet440]

Here is a good resource for NHRA rules on Rollbars and cages: http://promod.nhra.com/userfiles/file/Tech/2017_NHRA_Rulebook_Gen. Regs.pdf
section 4:10 is the rollbar vs rollcage rules. For a stock car with OEM firewall and floor, you do not need a rollcage until 10.00, a rollbar will suffice. Frankly, if your car is in the 10's it is not likely a great street car anymore or you are hardcore enough to wear a helmet on the way to cruise night.

Local shows and cruise nights, won't see any long road trips. Thanks for the link

 

[not so famous bob]

Here is a roll bar tip (we install plenty of them and they are very different for street cars vs race cars).

To complete the welds on the top of the hoop and have the bars as tight as possible to the roof (this is for a street roll bar), drill holes the size of the rollbar main hoop tubing in the floor where they will be installed. 1.75" or 1.625" are common roll bar diameters.

You need to install a 1/8" plate under the rollbar at the floor, so cut &fab the plates but do not weld them in quite yet, just slide them under the main hoop ends. Mark the down bar locations and angles, then slide the floorplates out of the way and drop the main hoop down into the holes. This will allow you access to weld the top of the down bar fish-mouth joint. For a final install, push the hoop back up into position and slide the floor plate under the floor end of the rollbar main hoop. Weld plates, rollbar and gussets.

On a street bar, we get the roll bar as far away from the drivers head as possible (up near the roof) and pad it. You do not have a helmet on when driving on the street and an un-padded roll bar near your head is actually more dangerous than no bar at all. On a race bar, we keep the roll bar no more than 3 inches from the drivers head when in a helmet, minimizes the travel until it stops your head in a crash (and you are wearing a helmet).

Hope that helps.

I was a first time installer, and the above worked well for me . also cut the floor and weld the frame connectors in the floor and the rear frame stubs. floor plates under the main hoop tied to the frame connectors in the floor. driveshaft loop welded to the frame connectors.

 

[Dodge 330]

Pics of my new bar...

 

[1967coronet440]

Pics of my new bar...

View attachment 402135 View attachment 402136

that looks good, similar to what ill end up putting in, did you add thew door bars yourself or was that part of the kit.

 

[Dodge 330]

that looks good, similar to what ill end up putting in, did you add thew door bars yourself or was that part of the kit.

No kit.

I priced kits and a good, qualified welder to put it in. In the end it was less hassle and expense to take it to the local race car fab shop. Holzman's in Wichita did it.

 

[Mike67]

Here is some pics of mine, the only thing I'm changing are my door bars...

 

[1967coronet440]

Here is some pics of mine, the only thing I'm changing are my door bars...

View attachment 402172 View attachment 402173 View attachment 402175 View attachment 402176

Thanks Mike, do the harness attach to the bar directly behind the seat?

 

[Mike67]

Thanks Mike, do the harness attach to the bar directly behind the seat?

Yes sir. The shoulder bar does have a reinforcement tab for the headrest as well.
I'm also thinking about using my factory seats, the problem is that the shoulder bar is just about the same height which is pretty dangerous in my opinion...so I've been toying with the idea of lowering it and also making it removable for the times the kids want to ride... It still wouldn't flex, the way its built...

 

[Mike67]

One other thing make sure you can find insurance that will let you have a cage....many won't...

 

[1967coronet440]

Yes sir. The shoulder bar does have a reinforcement tab for the headrest as well.
I'm also thinking about using my factory seats, the problem is that the shoulder bar is just about the same height which is pretty dangerous in my opinion...so I've been toying with the idea of lowering it and also making it removable for the times the kids want to ride... It still wouldn't flex, the way its built...

One other thing make sure you can find insurance that will let you have a cage....many won't...

Thanks, I'm debating which seats I'm going to use still... currently I have hagerty wonder if I should give them a call or just let it be

 

[vintage chromoly]

I'd give them a shout.
You don't want to find out the hard way that your insurance is void.

 

[1967coronet440]

Can anyone suggest a couple other classics car insurers where a cage is acceptable, incase hagerty shoots it down

 

[Mike67]

I dont know any big name companies, you might just need to call some locals about it....

 

[Tempest 455]

One other thing make sure you can find insurance that will let you have a cage....many won't...

Heacock is one that doesn't care. I have cage, tubbed etc. They did not care.

 

[dvw]

Local shows and cruise nights, won't see any long road trips. Thanks for the link

What type of 4 link? Real race type or triangulated bolt on? I run "kickers" out to the rockers and don't bother with floor plates. Also best to run the frame ties into the floor. Easy to make.
Doug

 

[1967coronet440]

What type of 4 link? Real race type or triangulated bolt on? I run "kickers" out to the rockers and don't bother with floor plates. Also best to run the frame ties into the floor. Easy to make.
Doug

View attachment 404637

It's a triangulated type from Reilly motorsports

 

[dvw]

It's a triangulated type from Reilly motorsports

View attachment 404648

Personally I'd keep the leafs. I'm not much for that set up. Clamp on brackets , etc. In my opinion the gain per dollar doesn't show anything.
Doug

 

[1967coronet440]

Personally I'd keep the leafs. I'm not much for that set up. Clamp on brackets , etc. In my opinion the gain per dollar doesn't show anything.
Doug

Appreciate the input but leafs are long gone