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roller lifters ?

boneheadsGeTeX

boneheadsGeTeX

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I need some advice iv Got a 70 gtx 440 car that was my dad's. He rebuilt the motor about 10 years ago factory bore and stroke had the crank hard cromed and turned back to factory spec heads factory heads shaved cleaned big thumper cam
Car was drove very very little maybe 100 miles but cranked quite often. ( he love to here the big cam) now I got the car 2 year ago .it sit wile lv added high rise intake headers and rewire ect. Now iv Got it back running at first it ran great but now iv Got a lifter noise ? My question is 3 part 1 can I change lifters and not cam ? What about role lifters? And roller rockers. ? Maybe it's not even lifters ?
 
Have you diagnosed the noise? You can use a long screwdriver with the handle against your ear.Narrow down which side is the noisey one and pull that cover. Inspect all rockers,roate the engine to see that everything looks good,than adjust the valve lash if they are adjustable.

7.8.14 002.jpg
 
It's coming from pasngerr side I took off valve cover don't see any adjustment .
 
Hemi. I don't know about lash?I'm thinking it's #6or 8 ..it was running great when I first fired it up. Sounded like it was going to sprout wings and fly out the garage. That was about 4 months ago but I still had to get gauges few more things. Then it was time to hit the road fist time wheels tuned in 2 years. Backed out of shop and it went to he'll. Started ticking back fired a few times lost power me and her went boout 1/2 mile and back to shop. Sad sad day. Its got good blood pressure about 70psi too 80 dad said he'd put a high pressure pump. Could it have too much pressure?
 
Camshaft and lifter wear to each other. If the lifter face has NO damage, a new lifter can be installed but the breakin procedure must be followed to the letter again. Chances are, the lifter face and the cam lobe are damaged if the cam is going south. If it was me I would stop running it immediately and pull the intake and look at every lobe and lifter. Post picts of what you find and we can go from there.
 
First you need to do some homework.You need to learn what "lash" is and how it effects performance.You need to read the differences between solid,hydrolic & roller lifters.
Don't just start throwing parts at it,,,,,,,,,GOOGLE is your friend!
You also need to figure budget you have to work with and what performance levels you wish to attain.
Than set a battle plan to attain your goals that fall inside your budget.We're here to help,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
comp cams aggressive lobe and hydraulic tappet; not a good long term mix.
 
Hemi your right I do need home work. I get a lot of info here. I check prices I shop on line. Ya I'm on a tight budget I do know differents in lifters. Your right about throwing parts at it. I be him, Iv pissed away 2k see my handle ..bone is my last name but my buddy call me Bonehead that being said I'm going to look at it tomorrow and get a plan ,,,,,Thanks
 
I just saw in MM that the AMC roller lifters are the hot ticket for a BBM, but you need to use the BBM tie bars cause the AMC bars aren't spaced right for the BBM. I do believe it was Andy F. that wrote about that while doing cam testing on a 470.
 
I have been using the 848 comp for 8 years.That is the AMC lifter.:thumbsup:Sent them in for a rebuild along with the Magna 500 fuel pump for simple PM 5 seasons ago.
Rollers can live it the street with pressurized oil to the roller if you don't get crazy with spring pressures.
 
The problem is generalities here. Comp's rates are no faster or slower than others'. Guys that can't keep a flat tappet cam in shape either messed up the build, or are running a camshaft they shouldn't be. Rollers are aggressive, but flat tappets can get almost as aggressive. Regardless of the lifter type, an aggressive lobe needs a heavy spring. It's the spring pressure that kills the other parts. Aggressive rollers and big solid flat tappets should have lightweight valves, retainers, locks, pushords, and rockers to help minimize the springs required. Hydraulics can't get that aggressive no matter how fast you try to move them. So get a cam that can do what you need it to.

Given your definition of use (street car) you ned to ignore the "big cam noise" and run a cam that will live and make the steam you want. In order to choose one, we need a lot more real info, not "it was rebuilt". Head work done, brand and model of intake, actual measured chamber volume and measured static compression ratio, transmission type, rear gearing, fuel ype you want to use, etc.
 
Just a suggestion. Before you start pulling the motor apart you might try draining the oil and changing the filter. Look for any 'glitter' in the oil. If there isn't any, get a can of Marvel Mystery oil and add it to you fresh oil change. Run the motor and see if the 'ticking' disappears. Weird things can happen to a motor that sits for a couple of years and sometimes the best fix is an easy one. Wish you luck. BTW, Bone, high pressure is not the problem.
 
Dave That's What I'll Do Can't Hurt I Changed The Oil Just Befor It Started The Ticking. Thanks
 
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