Yes.
Rotating Headlight relay modification.
- Thread starter Speedbird
- Start date
Yes.
tomlin
Well-Known Member
I would like to get some fullsize pics of your schematics. This is something I would like to do. Looks slick as as all get out and it keeps it analog. Would you shoot me a PM and I can give you a email address if that is cool? Thanks for sharing. Impressive work!
Sure.
Apparently the prints won't show on the site.
And they are really the important thing.
But I'll go ahead and post the "how to" even though it doesn't have the "AUX" relay I had to add.
Tried it today. Works great.
Just add the one more relay.
I would really recommend doing the complete wiring a eliminate the connectors.
Rip and tear! It's easy.
I like to keep wiring circuits separated and not wrap them all up together.
Power from control, etc.
Makes like easy in several ways.
I would pull new wires all the way to the motors and switches without the splices if I was doing this over again since I had the whole wiring harness out.
I was feeling my way through the prototype.
But even if someone doesn't do that, a good waterproof splice at the top of the radiator support area is light years ahead of having connectors..
(pun intended)
More pictures to follow
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I checked the new CB several times.
With a dead short on a 14 AWG wire it tripped, no problem.
Of course, 30 amp is what Chrysler used to protect EVERY thing that was originally tied to the circuit.
Huh?
With a dead short on a 14 AWG wire it tripped, no problem.
Of course, 30 amp is what Chrysler used to protect EVERY thing that was originally tied to the circuit.
Huh?
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A383Wing
Well-Known Member
Just for your info, the hold open switch is the same as the 4-way flasher switch in 67, and all the spade terminals on the flasher switch are used, unlike the hold open switch that only uses 2 terminals.
66 was different switches for hold open & 4-way flashers.....
66 was different switches for hold open & 4-way flashers.....
Good.
So if the prints are either different or the same for a 66 this will allow more people to use this since the prints I used are what most people probably have.
Either way it will work.
From your description of the hold open switch and the question of the prints, just use the one set of contacts.
So if the prints are either different or the same for a 66 this will allow more people to use this since the prints I used are what most people probably have.
Either way it will work.
From your description of the hold open switch and the question of the prints, just use the one set of contacts.
Here's the AUX relay I had to add.
The power must be hot to the motors at all times to allow the headlight to function when the key is "off".
Didn't think about that. Duh.
The AUX relay simply isolates the indication function.
It has no bearing on the motor power.
The power must be hot to the motors at all times to allow the headlight to function when the key is "off".
Didn't think about that. Duh.
The AUX relay simply isolates the indication function.
It has no bearing on the motor power.
olddog67
Well-Known Member
This is somewhat over my head as far as electrical is concerned. Honestly I dont understand much of it although it seems simple to y'all lol.
One of my motors works perfect when I hook it directly to the battery, the other seems 'jerky & grindy'. I will pull it out and take her apart to see whats going on and go from there but have a question!
For a simple man such as me it seems purchasing the plug n play relays from A383wing is the easiest way to go but did anyone ever find a replacement for the limit switches? I have one at least that the wire has pulled out of.
One of my motors works perfect when I hook it directly to the battery, the other seems 'jerky & grindy'. I will pull it out and take her apart to see whats going on and go from there but have a question!
For a simple man such as me it seems purchasing the plug n play relays from A383wing is the easiest way to go but did anyone ever find a replacement for the limit switches? I have one at least that the wire has pulled out of.
I can appreciate that this complete wiring upgrade isn't for everyone's situation.
It was just something I need to do for reliability and safety.
Perhaps others might benefit from sharing it.
I haven't done anything more about the limit switches.
But I will be working on that.
Next on my agenda is getting the instrumentation sorted out..
It was just something I need to do for reliability and safety.
Perhaps others might benefit from sharing it.
I haven't done anything more about the limit switches.
But I will be working on that.
Next on my agenda is getting the instrumentation sorted out..
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Hours and hours of looking, found some.
Tried Honeywell.
Didn't fit. Pin too short too.
These are almost a drop in.
And easy to get.
About 10 dollars each all over the net.
Good quality.
Drill a front hole and elongate the rear.
I'm using a rotary file and drill press to mill it.
6 32 is a perfect fit.
A piece of plastic to perfectly center the pin.
Before trimming.
Had to trim the 3/4 screws just a hair.
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/datasheet/0e7240at.aspx?p=11072340
Tried Honeywell.
Didn't fit. Pin too short too.
These are almost a drop in.
And easy to get.
About 10 dollars each all over the net.
Good quality.
Drill a front hole and elongate the rear.
I'm using a rotary file and drill press to mill it.
6 32 is a perfect fit.
A piece of plastic to perfectly center the pin.
Before trimming.
Had to trim the 3/4 screws just a hair.
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/datasheet/0e7240at.aspx?p=11072340
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Maxrat
Well-Known Member
Note: the hold open switch is for two reasons. 1. so you can wash your headlights without them being on. 2. so you can change headlight bulbs without them being on. You're supposed to flip the toggle switch then turn off the headlights. The headlights won't close. That way you can wash them without the lights on (running battery down or having to run the car).
Since I put in new switches I went ahead and did a full front grill area harness repair.
Something I didn't plan on originally.
What I found was that all of the ground wires go to a common splice behind the front bumper area and then to the ground stud.
(Negative earth connection....whatever.)
It appears to be a crimp only splice and covered in cloth friction tape.
All ground wires were showing black oxidation from that point onward.
I suspect that was because they could get moisture through the cloth tape, unlike the "positive" wires that had continuous solid insulation on them.
Just a guess.
But if someone ever has trouble and it might be the ground wire, I'd check that.
Something I didn't plan on originally.
What I found was that all of the ground wires go to a common splice behind the front bumper area and then to the ground stud.
(Negative earth connection....whatever.)
It appears to be a crimp only splice and covered in cloth friction tape.
All ground wires were showing black oxidation from that point onward.
I suspect that was because they could get moisture through the cloth tape, unlike the "positive" wires that had continuous solid insulation on them.
Just a guess.
But if someone ever has trouble and it might be the ground wire, I'd check that.
relam
Well-Known Member
Onlyone , Can you come to my house and play wiring cars ! We will have Steak and Lobster for lunch !
I think I may have posted what I found about the original headlight wiring.
It all had a common ground splice in the wiring harness that runs across the front of the radiator frame.
That could be a potential problem due to age in these cars.
I upgraded all that wiring forward of the radiator and while at it, I reoriented the relays to this position.
![20190916_090850[1].jpg](https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/20190916_090850-1-jpg.836557/ "20190916_090850[1].jpg")
It all had a common ground splice in the wiring harness that runs across the front of the radiator frame.
That could be a potential problem due to age in these cars.
I upgraded all that wiring forward of the radiator and while at it, I reoriented the relays to this position.
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Questions....First, thanks for all of this research. The original motors are what? 12v x ? amps x ? rpm x? torque x?
Would this motor do the same thing?
Greartisan DC 12V 5RPM Gear Motor, High Torque, Electric Micro Speed Reduction Geared Motor, Centric Output Shaft 37mm Diameter Gearbox
They also sell a L shaped bracket for it to mount to/through. I'm guessing that the limit switch would close and cut power to the motor? I'm assuming they come in a reversible model.
Would this motor do the same thing?
Greartisan DC 12V 5RPM Gear Motor, High Torque, Electric Micro Speed Reduction Geared Motor, Centric Output Shaft 37mm Diameter Gearbox
They also sell a L shaped bracket for it to mount to/through. I'm guessing that the limit switch would close and cut power to the motor? I'm assuming they come in a reversible model.
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Dumb question....what exactly keeps the heavy lights and shell from rolling back closed?
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or this one?
BEMONOC Micro 12 Volt Electric Gear Motor 15 RPM Reversible High Torque DC Worm Geared Motor
BEMONOC Micro 12 Volt Electric Gear Motor 15 RPM Reversible High Torque DC Worm Geared Motor
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Or, lol...does somebody have good motors for sale? And the switches/relays/wiring harnesses?
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