ckessel
Well-Known Member
Where is the car located? Might be a good idea to get eyes on it somehow so you don't get a $17k surprise turd when it arrives. BTW. You didn't happen to graduate in 76 from Fallbrook did you?
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Vanderstel
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As a matter of fact I did graduate from Fallbrook in 76. The car is in Salesville OH. I have many more photos and some video of the car. I've been on the phone with the guy a bit too. I ended up at 16K. So we'll see what happens.
66 Sat
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https://classiccars.com/listings/vi...h-satellite-for-sale-in-salesville-ohio-43778
I just looked through all the photos - based on the experience I had with my car I would say it definitely warrants an "in person inspection" before you commit. Some areas of the car look incredibly clean, others less so. The black underseal to the back half of the car raises a few queries - done to hide something?
Mine looked similar to that one in photos (and in person to an inexperienced buyer like I was at the time). I ended up stripping the whole car and fixing it up. These cars sold by dealers are often tarted up (e.g. new interior, new windshield, trunk lid painted) but they hide all the major issues. If the inside of the trunk lid was that rusty that they had to re-paint it, what does that say about the rest of the car?
I'm not trying to put a dampener on it - I'm just saying be careful.
I just looked through all the photos - based on the experience I had with my car I would say it definitely warrants an "in person inspection" before you commit. Some areas of the car look incredibly clean, others less so. The black underseal to the back half of the car raises a few queries - done to hide something?
Mine looked similar to that one in photos (and in person to an inexperienced buyer like I was at the time). I ended up stripping the whole car and fixing it up. These cars sold by dealers are often tarted up (e.g. new interior, new windshield, trunk lid painted) but they hide all the major issues. If the inside of the trunk lid was that rusty that they had to re-paint it, what does that say about the rest of the car?
I'm not trying to put a dampener on it - I'm just saying be careful.
In my experience - there's no such thing as a 'little' rust. If the car lived its life in OH vs CA...a difference. I'd get a guy who knows body work to inspect it before dropping the cash. It could have been restoed right; but then not. Some restorations have been done taking numerous photos of the job that this car may not have. This graduates to more guesswork on the build a body guy would know. Some pretty cars have been found to be bondo queens. Maybe some in the know member on the forum living close by could look at it...
Vanderstel
Well-Known Member
Well, I've not sent the full amount, but if anyone is near SalesVille OH, I could Venmo a few bucks to cover the gas money.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
You and I graduated together. The C in ckessel is for Carl.
I’ve done two car restorations in my time; the 1st was a family car ’72 Cutlass vert my mother bought in ’75. It was handed off to family members to drive through WI winters for over a decade. I got the idea to restore it (thankfully withy my talented dad) to do a semi-442 clone. Well sheeit – by the time we got done with it the only remaining original body part left was the hood. NOS quarters, southern fenders, doors, deck lid, some new metal re-fabbing the entire rear end body framework…cutting out the entire cowling/dash piecing in a rust-free one. It was done ‘right’ and lost money when I sold it. I swore I’d never friggin do another car that far body-gone.
I found a ’63 Fury vert that lived its life in southern CA, hell when I swapped out the rear for a later mopar, I already bought new brake lines to bend; but the original lines came out so nice I just put those back in! Any bolts/screws came out like butter. It was amazing after what I busted my knuckles on – on the 1st one. BUT, I did find rust. Had to piece in a new lower trunk pan and a small section of the left quarter (an area prone to retaining moisture around the vert stability framework). Humid areas – never exposed to road salt though. Huge diff. I took some 300 photos of the resto so anyone who might want to buy it will see exactly what’s what. Then? Well sheeit – invested some $35k in this ride, likely more I can’t recall and hundreds of hours of sweat in the garage unaccounted for. I’d be lucky to snag $25k for it.
Guys wanting an old ride will often get a bargain just finding one – but – if it would be me – I’d want to see an album of photos on its rebuild. I've come across this and a few of those cars I wouldn't hesitate to buy.
I found a ’63 Fury vert that lived its life in southern CA, hell when I swapped out the rear for a later mopar, I already bought new brake lines to bend; but the original lines came out so nice I just put those back in! Any bolts/screws came out like butter. It was amazing after what I busted my knuckles on – on the 1st one. BUT, I did find rust. Had to piece in a new lower trunk pan and a small section of the left quarter (an area prone to retaining moisture around the vert stability framework). Humid areas – never exposed to road salt though. Huge diff. I took some 300 photos of the resto so anyone who might want to buy it will see exactly what’s what. Then? Well sheeit – invested some $35k in this ride, likely more I can’t recall and hundreds of hours of sweat in the garage unaccounted for. I’d be lucky to snag $25k for it.
Guys wanting an old ride will often get a bargain just finding one – but – if it would be me – I’d want to see an album of photos on its rebuild. I've come across this and a few of those cars I wouldn't hesitate to buy.
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I could go and look but it might be SOLD then.
Dave that’s not a Charger. LolI could go and look but it might be SOLD then.
jamey
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I wouldn't buy that car for $16k. It's been repainted and I can see bubbles and bondo in the lower quarter panels. There's also bubbles in the front lower corner of the doors. I wouldn't bet that car only has 38k miles, probably 138k unless they have documentation. That car definitley needs a closer inspection. From what I see, I'd pass.
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Car has some issues that make me question whether it really has only 38k original mile and not 138k - I'd want to see some documentation to verify the mileage or negotiate a lower price. Not trying to burst your bubble, but want to make sure you know what you're getting.
Car has definitely had body work and a repaint. Bubbles showing on rear quarters and bottom of door. Also, 67 Satellites had 2-tone paint with buff silver below the body side molding - this one is all yellow, sure sign of a repaint. Door jambs look original so paint job was a mask and spray of the exterior, i.e. car was not disassembled for paint. Engine compartment painted black is a no-no. Some pics show the trunk in yellow as it should be, others in black, another no-no, so these pics are not all the same vintage. Antenna base is wrong. Seat covers are wrong. Dash has likely been cut for the aftermarket radio. Dash pad is in pretty bad shape - these are hard to find. Horn button is badly crazed. If this is truly a low mileage car, then it sat outside a lot and aged significantly in the sun whether it was driven or not. Tail panel has been stripped of the argent paint in the center - it should not be polished. Gas cap is wrong - originals are hard to find, but it can be upgraded to the GTX cap which is available in repop. VIN pictured does not belong to this car, but correct VIN is in the listing.
On the plus side, the body side molding is all present and appears to be in good condition - as someone else mentioned these pieces are near unobtanium. It also has the correct tail lights though the lenses look a little rough - a lot of crazing. I see a lot of these cars with Belvedere tail lights because those used to be easier to find in the junk yard before the Satellite/GTX tail lights were being reproduced.
I would definitely inspect the car in person before laying out that much cash. While I love 66-67's, they aren't as popular, and therefore valuable, as the 68 and up. Being a low option 318 2-bbl doesn't help on value either. Car could be a nice driver if it's as solid as advertised, but several areas need attention so price accordingly.
Car has definitely had body work and a repaint. Bubbles showing on rear quarters and bottom of door. Also, 67 Satellites had 2-tone paint with buff silver below the body side molding - this one is all yellow, sure sign of a repaint. Door jambs look original so paint job was a mask and spray of the exterior, i.e. car was not disassembled for paint. Engine compartment painted black is a no-no. Some pics show the trunk in yellow as it should be, others in black, another no-no, so these pics are not all the same vintage. Antenna base is wrong. Seat covers are wrong. Dash has likely been cut for the aftermarket radio. Dash pad is in pretty bad shape - these are hard to find. Horn button is badly crazed. If this is truly a low mileage car, then it sat outside a lot and aged significantly in the sun whether it was driven or not. Tail panel has been stripped of the argent paint in the center - it should not be polished. Gas cap is wrong - originals are hard to find, but it can be upgraded to the GTX cap which is available in repop. VIN pictured does not belong to this car, but correct VIN is in the listing.
On the plus side, the body side molding is all present and appears to be in good condition - as someone else mentioned these pieces are near unobtanium. It also has the correct tail lights though the lenses look a little rough - a lot of crazing. I see a lot of these cars with Belvedere tail lights because those used to be easier to find in the junk yard before the Satellite/GTX tail lights were being reproduced.
I would definitely inspect the car in person before laying out that much cash. While I love 66-67's, they aren't as popular, and therefore valuable, as the 68 and up. Being a low option 318 2-bbl doesn't help on value either. Car could be a nice driver if it's as solid as advertised, but several areas need attention so price accordingly.
Vanderstel
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone for their contributions, we have a wide variety of opinions here... all are appreciated. I'll let you know how it goes. I've been a mopar fan for many years. My dad worked at sever Dodge and Plymouth dealers as a salesman back in the 60's and 70's around Oceanside and Escondido CA. I remember several Road Runner 440 6bbls and Super Birds coming home with him, this was a time when salesmen were allowed to bring cars home.
Basket case
Well-Known Member
Bubbles in the passenger door, passenger quarter, drivers dor and rocker have obvious bondo. Over spray on Pentastar, looks like some rust issues on passenger front floor. I've seen enough to pass. You don't want a car from Ohio. But if this is a must have, I'm an hour and a half away.
Vanderstel
Well-Known Member
Yes, I did, and I appreciate the input. Mopar guys and gals.... are never wanting on an opinion...
My opinion is that any B Body mopar under 25K is far from perfect. Any B Body mopar that starts, runs, drives, and stops is worthy of 20K.
The gamble below 20K is not bad on this car.
The gamble below 20K is not bad on this car.
Kimodc
Well-Known Member
“Is it priced right?”......ha , I can’t remember the last time I bought something that was “priced right “..... certainly not the chlorine tabs I put in my pool, or the lumber for my house addition, etc.... but that’s what you have to pay if you want these things....including cars.
Also remember, this forum is great, but there is a tendency to undervalue others stuff, yet their stuff must be hiding pure gold under all that rust..... just check out some of the “for sale” ads here! I’m with Billccm on this one, you don’t have much to chose from under 20k if you’re buying a b body
Also remember, this forum is great, but there is a tendency to undervalue others stuff, yet their stuff must be hiding pure gold under all that rust..... just check out some of the “for sale” ads here! I’m with Billccm on this one, you don’t have much to chose from under 20k if you’re buying a b body
Difference of opinion I wouldn't even be interested.
Man I wish you would have posted this sooner, I'm not far from there at all but will be leaving for vacation shortly. Judging by Basket Cases picture and the asking price I'd pass or at the very least get a good look at it and get the price down... The thick undercoating is another attention getter.
I went back and looked at the pictures, hard pass at that prices! There's evidence all over it that suggest it needs a decent amount of body and paint, if I can see that much I'd hate to see how much is covered up elsewhere.
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r4sedan
Well-Known Member
Did you say 16k there really isn't much out there you can buy for that price. Ok so it's not perfect but your not paying 40 or 50 grand. And your right I've seen people come on here just to post there crap for sale and want way too much. I would buy it do a few small things and enjoy it.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
here is one.
if I had the funds and/or the room I would be taking a look at this one for myself
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2536705649914759
if I had the funds and/or the room I would be taking a look at this one for myself
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2536705649914759
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