School me on budget roller cam regrind options

[Secret Chimp]

I have a bone-stock 1996 5.2 Magnum in my Coronet wagon. It is converted to carb via a 600cfm 4160 and a knockoff Air Gap intake, Doug's headers, 3.23 gears, newer tow converter (probably 2000-2100 stall). Car weighs about 4000 pounds with me in it.

I have been wanting to put a cam in it for awhile, but I kept just shopping Hughes and getting discouraged with an $800+ parts list for maybe another 40HP.

Recently I found I have been missing options for regrinds via Oregon Cams or other sources.

I'm thinking about using this grind that I saw a few folks throw in Magnum 360s, but with the kegger intake and FI vs carb (via this FABO thread):

#1990
224/230 @ 0.50
.510/ .510
112 LSA

As I understand I should be able to get away with just the regrind + Hughes' 1100 spring/retainer set?

I can find some people claiming you can run up to .520 lift with just changing the springs/retainers before you have to machine the guides. Others claim you can't go past .470 lift before clearance problems, though maybe they were talking about with stock springs/retainers.

My general goal is to improve low and mid-range power on the cheap for street fun, but I'm not sure what I should be considering lift/duration-wise with a Magnum 5.2/318 vs a 5.9/360 (since more people run 5.9s for Magnums, at least), no computer to monkey with, but something several hundred pounds heavier than an A-body coupe.

 

[ckessel]

The only issue I have with a regrind is how much material gets taken off the base circle. If too much is removed, the lifter drops down further in the bore and you could potentially expose the oil galley which will kill pressure.

 

[33 IMP]

With your weight, displacement and gearing.... I think I'd look a step or two smaller than that one.... which would be very little improvement over stock, for a serious investment.
I have used two reground rollers, but much more aggressive than you are contemplating.
If you can reach a human at Oregon cams, I'd give them a call to see what they offer or recommend.

 

[dvw]

We had Lunati regrind a stock magnum cam. Resused the stock lifters. Even when we upgraded to a .550" cam it still runs the stock lifters.
Doug

 

[rumblefish360]

I have a bone-stock 1996 5.2 Magnum in my Coronet wagon. It is converted to carb via a 600cfm 4160 and a knockoff Air Gap intake, Doug's headers, 3.23 gears, newer tow converter (probably 2000-2100 stall). Car weighs about 4000 pounds with me in it.

I have been wanting to put a cam in it for awhile, but I kept just shopping Hughes and getting discouraged with an $800+ parts list for maybe another 40HP.

Recently I found I have been missing options for regrinds via Oregon Cams or other sources.

I'm thinking about using this grind that I saw a few folks throw in Magnum 360s, but with the kegger intake and FI vs carb (via this FABO thread):

#1990
224/230 @ 0.50
.510/ .510
112 LSA

As I understand I should be able to get away with just the regrind + Hughes' 1100 spring/retainer set?

I can find some people claiming you can run up to .520 lift with just changing the springs/retainers before you have to machine the guides. Others claim you can't go past .470 lift before clearance problems, though maybe they were talking about with stock springs/retainers.

My general goal is to improve low and mid-range power on the cheap for street fun, but I'm not sure what I should be considering lift/duration-wise with a Magnum 5.2/318 vs a 5.9/360 (since more people run 5.9s for Magnums, at least), no computer to monkey with, but something several hundred pounds heavier than an A-body coupe.

Honestly, by the time you pay for shipping there and back, did you really save any money that’s meaningful and worth the hassle?

Oregon cams…