School me on driveline vibrations!

[Supershafts]

Example: If you look down from the top of the car there should be no side to side deviation. The output shaft and pinion should be perfectly lined up. You only want the angle as you are looking from the side of the car. Since you have a tranny conversion make sure you don't somehow have a compound angle built in.

How is the slip yoke? You should not have excessive radial play.

Um you do know that EVERY mopar has the motor off set to the pass side, and that the angle you say shouldn't be is in EVERY mopar
This is the other reason i use ears and lose mounts when i get to them, so the motor is centered and the car is balanced correctly.

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[Meep-Meep]

Um you do know that EVERY mopar has the motor off set to the pass side, and that the angle you say shouldn't be is in EVERY mopar
This is the other reason i use ears and lose mounts when i get to them, so the motor is centered and the car is balanced correctly.

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Um, yes, and did you know that the pinion is also offset to that same side?? One might say that the engine offset is equal to the pinion offset, thus creating a straight line as viewed from the top. If you had an offset looking from the top AND looking from the side you would have a similar situation as the first gen Camaro and Firebird. The drive shaft on those cars leaves the tranny up and over, thus requiring the weld yokes to be 15 degrees out of phase.

 

[Supershafts]

Um, yes, and did you know that the pinion is also offset to that same side??

The drive shaft on those cars leaves the tranny up and over, thus requiring the weld yokes to be 15 degrees out of phase.

Um, no they are not also offset, if you can remove the body it won't be straight, or just measure them, they run at an angle side to side, all of them

Funny thing about those camaros and firebirds, i know why they did that and i have proved just over 3000 times with those cars, maybe just a few more than 3000 times that after i phased them correctly and balanced there is no issue nor a reason for that phasing.

 

[beezee]

No mention of the crank pilot bushing supporting the trans input shaft,any wear or excess play will also cause serious drive line vibrations.

 

[bandit]

I know you said everything is new or has been checked underneath but sounds like ujoints. Even if new, those bearing/pins like to fall out of the ujoint caps if the caps fall off while installing, and they like to fall off. I'd get a pry bar on those ujoints and see if there is any play in those.

 

[Plymouth63]

you may try a load-force balancing at a tire center. This will eliminate the tires as a problem. I just had this problem. No problem until i reached a certain speed. Then vibration, below or above (55-70 mph) that speed no problem.

 

[Sonny Black]

Sonny had similar problem once.....it was a motor mount.:eusa_pray: ....hope it is something simple, like
motor mount or motor mount insert..

 

[Wookie316]

Ok I've had some time to spend with the car and have done some measuring. Tranny was 5 degrees down and diff was 1 1/2 up. So I got the tranny up to 3 1/2-4. Couldn't go any higher as Trans would hit in the tunnel if I went any higher. Diff is now 3 1/2-4 up, so angles are equal now.
This didn't fix my problem though, but I am now leaning towards some sort of engine vibration since it is RPM sensitive and I can feel it when the car isn't moving.
Starts coming on about 2200 RPM up to about 2500 RPM. Then again around 3300 RPM.
Also tested on highway. Push clutch in and keep RPM in those ranges and vibration is still there. Here is my component list. Looking for direction now.

Flywheel Mcleod 464100
Bell housing Lakewood RM-6074
It's a McLeod diaphragm pressure plate, but not sure on make of disk. It was a new one I had for my A-833, so I just changed the disk. Disk was supplied by American Powertrain so what ever they use.
Hudraulic clutch with 5/8" slave cylinder.
Engine is a 400 bored and stroked to 512
Callie's dragonayer crankshaft. Diamond pistons but not sure on the connecting rod.
So it could be as simple as a misaligned bell housing, but I need a list of things to check when I pull it apart.
Thinking about putting this clutch in since I have to pull it apart. McLeod RST dual disk clutch 6913-07. Pedal effort is higher than I like so if I open it up, why not upgrade?
What are your thoughts guys? Thx in advance for the help! Much appreciated.

 

[Supershafts]

I had explained you have a issue that is not related to angles and is at the front half of the trans or at the motor.

Now you need to see if it is at the front half of the trans or is it the motor. You'll need to check all that, could be in the motor or at the flywheel , but im leaning toward flywheel, h-balancer or worse you get to remove the motor and start all over with balancing

 

[Wookie316]

I will probably get the Trans out and run with just the flywheel and bell housing. If it goes away, then I can check that all off. If it doesn't, I guess I will check into the flywheel first and the. The balancer. I am hoping its a bell housing that's not zeroed properly or my clutch being that the disk and plate are not matched. After speaking with McLeod I may change to an RST clutch anyway to get an easier pedal effort.

 

[Supershafts]

misalignment will result in bearing issues and power loss

 

[Wookie316]

Well, running the engine with just the flywheel has proven my vibs to still exist Start coming on about 1500, out till 2000, on from 2100 getting real bad around 2300 and out again at 2600. Car seems to pull fine after that up to red line. These are the same RPM's it was happening while car was still in motion. Did find a bell housing that is not dialed in correct either, gonna need .004 offset dowels to get it running true. So a multitude of troubles to solve. Suggestions?
Thx.

- - - Updated - - -

Callies crank dragonslayer, diamond pistons, powerbond balancer, Mcleod flywheel, SCAT rods.

 

[Supershafts]

You're getting closer, now you'll find it';s the wheel, balancer or worse internal or something is being used where it shouldn't be

 

[bm02tj]

did you swap flywheels after motor was balanced

what was balanced with your motor

front pulley front damper flywheel

or is it a miss from a bad valve cam lobe plug wire plug dist reluctor in dist

try every thing before tearing motor down

 

[Wookie316]

Flywheel is out to be checked for balance. There was no drill marks on the wheel indicating it has been balanced, so I figured I'd have it checked and see what shows up? Fingers crossed that's my issue?

 

[44070dart]

know its new but I had a bad trans mount that vibrated like crazy ...good luck

 

[Dennis H]

How heavy is it? My Keisler/Tremec runs similar rpms at 67 mph. 354 Dana. It has a stick rattle at higher rpms that settles down in 5th when loafing. Does it in all gears under load at higher rpm's. There is a fix from Keisler (if that is what it is) but not available for early TKO's.

He says he feels it in the stick. You guys have him taking every gd bolt out from the rear bumper to the front. Fix's are all over the planet. I can't wait for the resolution.

 

[Wookie316]

Since all the running gear is out now, I know it's not Trans, driveshaft or diff. It is flywheel forward. When I get my flywheel back from balancing I will report my findings.

 

[bm02tj]

do you have the flywheel that they used when the original was balanced or did you buy a balanced kit with out flywheel and balancer

 

[Wookie316]

I thought the assembly was balanced with the flywheel, but it appears it wasn't after speaking with the shop that did the work.