Single stage...polish????

[66_B_Body4ever]

Could be right, post a couple of pictures an I'll do my best to suggest a solution.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Could be right, post some pic's and I'll do my best to suggest a solution. Too fast of a hardener, reducer etc can also be a contributing factor...

 

[5.7 hemi]

Going to order another kit, this time with a medium reducer instead of a slow reducer.

 

[696pack]

The paint on the car looks "dry" to me as though it was shot with too little air pressure. If you have a lot of paint on it (thick) then you may be able to salvage it by wet sanding it out, if not you still going to have to sand it smooth and re-shoot it.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Not sure what happened here, I had posted a lengthy response only to discover it was removed or lost somehow...5.7, a slow reducer would allow the paint to flow out, a faster reducer would be more inclined to cause your problem. likely your gun technique is the culprit. Too fast, too far away could be the problem, a good rule of thumb is 8-10" away from the panel with an HVLP gun, this should result in a pattern of about 8-10 inches in height and about 2-3" in width (elliptical pattern). As the paint strikes the panel it should appear medium wet with a slight orange peel, it will flow out as the solvents (reducers) evaporate. It is a learning curve to get the gun speed down to achieve the wet look. Overlap of the pattern is critical as well...50% overlap is recommended, this means starting 50% off the panel and finishing 50% off the panel. One thing to remember with catalysed paints, it will look exactly as you lay it on...dry is dry. Too high an air pressure will give this effect as well, too low and the paint won't atomize and will appear mottled. If you are using an HVLP gun it should be dispersing 10 psi at the air cap in order to atomize the paint correctly. Inlet pressure can vary, Sata HVLP's such as the NR 3000 need 2 bar or 29 psi, a Sata RP needs more, about 36 psi as an example...this is important stuff! Oh, and make sure the gun is always perpendicular to the panel or light/dark areas will appear...and never intermix materials from different manufacturers, I think I'm done now...
Cheers 5.7...Good luck.

 

[Redpolara]

Just to add to 66BBs post, the fast drying reducer has a tendancy to give you railway lines especially with a metalic paint, the metalic particals will be drawn to the wettest area.......the overlap.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I used a reducer for 85 degrees and up, is that slow or fast? My air was too high, I remeber asking myself, "self, why is the paint blowing back to ya after it hits the panel"? Guess I didn't pay attention to myself...live and learn. I will oficially lay the blame on my only eye. Turns out I nave a catarac, and the VA found it today, so surgery is on the fast track due to my drivers license renewal due in Nov.. So, thats what I gotta deal with and have been dealing with since the begining of the year. Almost ready to shoot it again, and how it turns out is what I'll live with, good, bad or ugly.

Tell me the kind of reducer I need for an ambient air temp of around 85 or so and I'll make sure to get it when I order another kit.

 

[5.7 hemi]

One other thing... all the trim parts, steering column, dash etc. came out fantastic...go figure!

 

[Redpolara]

At a guess 5.7,when you painted the smaller items, it probably went on wetter...hence the better finish.
Personally i've never bought reducer based on temp range, for color I use PPG AAA Normal.....it has good flow charicteristics in this predominantly warm climate.

 

[RGAZ]

At a guess 5.7,when you painted the smaller items, it probably went on wetter...hence the better finish.
Personally i've never bought reducer based on temp range, for color I use PPG AAA Normal.....it has good flow charicteristics in this predominantly warm climate.

I'm like you. I used to buy fast or slow depending on temperature, but it was too hard to get used to the new drying rate. So now I only buy Medium and I really got used to it. I guess the more you practice with a solvent dry time the better you get at it.

What's really hard, at least for me, is when I jump from enamel, to laquer, to urethane, to epoxy primer, and clears. I paint all kinds of things (not just cars) so i use all types. The technique changes each time. I use wax paper on 4'x8' sheets of plywood to setup my gun, patterns, and speed and sometimes I need to use both sides fo the wood to get it right!!

Randy

 

[Redpolara]

I know what you mean RAGZ, I never assume how the gun is going to spray, even after refilling the pot........better to be safe than sorry.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Lots of great info. I did get a medium reducer for the nexr go around, and I got some scrap metal to practice and set the gun up.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

If you are spraying in hot temps you should use a slow reducer. The paint needs time to flow out before the reducer evaporates. They wouldn't waste their time developing these materials if they didn't have a purpose!

 

[5.7 hemi]

Gonna do it at night, so the temps will be alot lower, around 70-80 degrees. Hopefully this will help.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

Let us know how it goes!