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size does matter

4onthefloor

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The season is over and my slick are worn. The wheelhouse limit my overall width to 11".
Currently i'm running a 10x26 Hoosier on a 8x15 rim. Best ET was a 11.88@119mph, 60ft 1.77. The engine peak power is at 6k. I have a 3.90 in the back and a four speed, at the finish line i run 5900 rpm. Should i change to a 9x28, is it a improve or do i ruin my setup?
 
Good MPH. Lots of room for ET improvement. I say more tire and more gear. At that MPH you should be able to reduce ET up to .7. It may take more than those two items to get there. But you have enough HP to do it.
Doug
 
Based on your picture in your sig, I’m going to guess we are working with a 66 Satellite (???).

If so, a 28x9 on a 15x8 rim should fit, and will fill the wheelwell nicely. With a 28” tire and a four speed, I would think that 4.10’s or even 4.30’s would be ideal. I run 4.10’s with an automatic. As Doug said, your MPH suggests you have the beans to run bottom 11’s. Tell us more about the current chassis setup, and I’m sure there’s help to be had here.
 
Just my 2 cents. If your trap is 5900 but the engine peak is 6000, you are not getting all you can. The 119 is good. If the peak engine power is 6000, I would like to trap at 6200. Just say'in. More gear would help.
 
Yes we are talking about the Satellite. The setup is conservative, QA1 shocks front and rear, 318 torsions bar, no sway bar, stock A arms, 235/60 front tire with 65psi, just suspension leaf springs, Caltracs, 4050 lbs including driver. I raise the front on the strip, and found some 1/10 in the 60ft time. Full steel body and interior.
It's a sleeper and a (mostly) street car, that's the reason i used the 3.90 and 26X10.
 
Good MPH. Lots of room for ET improvement. I say more tire and more gear. At that MPH you should be able to reduce ET up to .7. It may take more than those two items to get there. But you have enough HP to do it.
Doug
Doug , with a 4 speed clutch its good . If an auto yes for sure he is missing et . My experience with a street type clutch/shifter/gearbox there is about a half second or so difference for the same mph .
and yes a 4.1 would be good with a taller tyre if possible

Tex
 
All depends on how good you can shift. With a little work a 833 with debured sliders and stock synchros can be power shifted very quickly. But if you aren't talented with a stick it'll slow your ET down. Takes a fair amount of practice.
Doug
 
Yes we are talking about the Satellite. The setup is conservative, QA1 shocks front and rear, 318 torsions bar, no sway bar, stock A arms, 235/60 front tire with 65psi, just suspension leaf springs, Caltracs, 4050 lbs including driver. I raise the front on the strip, and found some 1/10 in the 60ft time. Full steel body and interior.
It's a sleeper and a (mostly) street car, that's the reason i used the 3.90 and 26X10.
Please consider less air in front tires. At 65 psi they are prone to flex break or bead failure with catastrophic results. Dave
 
I am surprised that a 66 Satellite weighs that much, even with a big block. Getting 4000+ to 119 is no small feat. At what point on the track are you hitting 4th gear?
 
I am surprised that a 66 Satellite weighs that much, even with a big block. Getting 4000+ to 119 is no small feat. At what point on the track are you hitting 4th gear?

Agreed on the weight. My Satellite has a 6-pt mild steel bar and frame connectors, is 100% all there (factory heater, radio, glass, all steel) with heavy torque thrust wheels, full size battery plus 1-ga trunk cables. It goes 3880 in the beams with my 175 in the seat.
Not sure if the 4 speed adds 150 over a 727???
 
I am surprised that a 66 Satellite weighs that much, even with a big block. Getting 4000+ to 119 is no small feat. At what point on the track are you hitting 4th gear?
I made the corner weight setup with a intercom, weight is include 177 lbs driver and full gas tank! Aluminium cylinder heads, water pump and housing, bell housing. No power options, bucket seats and console. All steel body, mufflers.
Another problem is my A833, shift light is set at 5500, if i try to shift 5800/6000 i can't make really fast shifts. On 5500 i have no problems all day long.
 
20180614_072009.jpg

How accurate is Wallace. See below, not to far off.
Doug
60 Foot 1.25
330 Foot 3.61
660 Foot 5.68
660 MPH 119.69
1000 Foot 7.47
1/4 Mile ET 9.00
1/4 Mile MPH 147.22
actual
 
Last edited:
This is the max pressure indicated on the tire, so that should be no problem!

I am curious to know what brand front tires you have. I too feel that 65 lbs is way high. I did a little checking online. Everything came up as a redial tire for 235 15R/60. As some examples, Mickey Thompson's said 44lbs max. BF Goodrich TA's were 35lbs max. Mickey Thompson has a bias 8 ply front runner (26x7.50/15) that is rated 60lbs max. The only tire I could find for 65lbs max was an 8 ply light truck tire. Are you sure the 65lbs was not the maximum bead seating pressure?
 
Its a Pirelli P600 V speed rating. The tire pressure is only for dragracing not for street use. A good quality tire will do this without trouble ( 10 years exactly) A tire testrun has much higher stress level. I have never seen a tire damage in my 30 years as mechanic from inflating to 65 psi. But every blown tire i saw, was underinflated or had a broken carcasse from an inpact, or it was a fxxx cheap copy of chinese copy, or improper reconditioned.
 
How does the car hook ? I mean 119 mph you should be running easy mid to low 11's. When I ran my old 906 headed 440 in my street car it ran 11.49 @ 116 with just SS springs and 30 x 9 Hoosiers. I agree more gear should help but it sounds like its not hooking well or you are really taking your time when shifting. And that's not meant to be smart but I see a lot of stick drivers that don't drive them so good. My 340 Dart with a stock 833 four speed ran 11.94 @ 112 to 113 mph back in 1981. Does the car feel as if its hooking ok because you have the mph for 11.30's or better. Good luck with it , Ron
 
The season is over and my slick are worn. The wheelhouse limit my overall width to 11".
Currently i'm running a 10x26 Hoosier on a 8x15 rim. Best ET was a 11.88@119mph, 60ft 1.77. The engine peak power is at 6k. I have a 3.90 in the back and a four speed, at the finish line i run 5900 rpm. Should i change to a 9x28, is it a improve or do i ruin my setup?

To get the most out of that setup, I would stick with 10x26. You are quite a ways off on your et potential, the most cost effective place to look for that 0.75 will be dialing in the hit of the clutch. That will also allow you to raise launch rpm (pack more energy into your launch), while at the same time reducing your risk of broken parts.

Lets say you have an overkill clutch that can hold 1000ft/lbs behind an engine that only makes 600. If you launch the car and allow that clutch to hit with it's full 1000ftlb capacity, it's going to instantly pull an additional 400ftlbs of inertia out of the rotating assy, which causes the engine to lose rpm. Extra clutch capacity, beyond what it takes to hold the engine's torque, that's what controls how fast the clutch pulls the engine down. Too much extra clutch torque capacity, the clutch either pulls the engine down too fast (bog), knocks the tires loose, or breaks drivetrain parts. But if you dialed the initial hit of that 1000ftlb clutch all the way back to around 700ftlbs, it still holds all of the engine's 600ftlbs of torque, except now it only pulls engine rpm down at a much slower 100ftlb rate. Because the car is gaining speed while the clutch is pulling the engine down, the engine doesn't get pulled down as far.
Here's a graph based on the average acceleration rate for a 1.40 60'...

example3400w.jpg


Let's say for this example that line "A" represents the 1000ftlb clutch in the example above, hitting with it's full 1000ftlbs of holding power. 1000ftlbs of holding power is going to pull that 600ftlb engine down at a 400ftlb rate. The result is the engine gets pulled down very quickly (0.325sec) to about 1800rpm. Even if the engine were still making 600ftlbs, that's only 205hp at 1800rpm. That's going to produce a huge bog, and et/60' is going to suffer a lot because of it. But if you were to use something like the ClutchTamer to cut the initial hit of that 1000ftlb clutch back to 900ftlbs, it's not going to pull the engine down as fast, which gives the car more time to accelerate before engine rpm sync's up with vehicle speed (that sync point is where the clutch actually stops slipping). The result would look more like line "B", where the car is able to accelerate to about 20mph. That raises bog rpm to about 2800 where the engine is obviously going to make a lot more power than it did at 1800. Backing the hit of that 1000ftlb clutch off to 800 would result in something like line "C", where the engine stays above 3700. Now the bog point is up to around 420hp. Back the hit off to around 700ftlbs and it would look more like line "D", as the clutch is now only pulling 100ftlbs of inertia out of the rotating assy. That extra slip time allows the engine to stay closer to it's sweet spot for HP production, now it's up to about 550hp thru the low point of the bog.

Grant
 
How does the car hook ? I mean 119 mph you should be running easy mid to low 11's. When I ran my old 906 headed 440 in my street car it ran 11.49 @ 116 with just SS springs and 30 x 9 Hoosiers. I agree more gear should help but it sounds like its not hooking well or you are really taking your time when shifting. And that's not meant to be smart but I see a lot of stick drivers that don't drive them so good. My 340 Dart with a stock 833 four speed ran 11.94 @ 112 to 113 mph back in 1981. Does the car feel as if its hooking ok because you have the mph for 11.30's or better. Good luck with it , Ron

To hooking well is always a problem, when i pop the clutch above 1700 rpm, the tire breaking loose. So i changed to a "softer" engaging of the clutch @3000 rpm. Shifting is not the problem, turn up the volume and you hear the shifting noise ;-), Marco

 
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