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slant on 440 73 roadrunner

Did you say that your RR originally came with a /6? Did not think that they ever made any /6 RRs.
 
its an rr clone(if this is the right term)i think it cam with an slant 6 ill post the vin up ...


another update on the rockers ...i have used shims from 440 source to addjust the valvue trian ....

again how do i find out if i have damaged any componets of the engine?
Did you say that your RR originally came with a /6? Did not think that they ever made any /6 RRs.
 
Oooooooooooooooooooooooh I C.
Have anyone checked to see if the rockers are installed correctly? There are intake and exhaust rockers.
 
how do you diffrentiate between the intake and exhaust rockers???....
Oooooooooooooooooooooooh I C.
Have anyone checked to see if the rockers are installed correctly? There are intake and exhaust rockers.
 
They have a slight offset to them. They should line up on the center of the valve stem. Push rods should be straight. When mixed up the rocketer will not be centered and push rods will be angled abit.
 
ill try putting up a video by tonight ...but anyway to know if some damage has been done to the engine??thanks
 
the rockers are stamped LT and RT . it is easy to see if they are backwards with the valve covers off. theres no telling if there is any damage. the simple fact that he let you drive it like that would have me scared to let him touch it again. by the way, who routed the fuel line and put that intake on backwards? why would you need longer pushrods any way?

please do something with that fuel line if you havent already. i have seen what a header can do to a rubber line and it isnt pretty
 
goint to another garage and i have no idea.....how do you adjust stock rockers arms??i read somewhere that after tighning them the rockers need to move up and down slightly?is this right?
the rockers are stamped LT and RT . it is easy to see if they are backwards with the valve covers off. theres no telling if there is any damage. the simple fact that he let you drive it like that would have me scared to let him touch it again. by the way, who routed the fuel line and put that intake on backwards? why would you need longer pushrods any way?
 
goint to another garage and i have no idea.....how do you adjust stock rockers arms??i read somewhere that after tighning them the rockers need to move up and down slightly?is this right?

there is no adjusting factory rockers. the hydraulic lifter dictates the lash, which should be 0. the pushrods should not be loose at any point. thats whats making the clackity clacking noise. they should be snug at max valve lift. theres a few reasons they make noise.

worn/dry lifters or the wrong lifters
worn out rocker arms and/or shafts
low oil pressure
base circle of the cam is smaller than factory
worn out valve springs or they are not matched to the cam
carbon build up in the valve seats not allowing the valve(s) to fully close

its sounds like whoever was messing with this engine did not match the parts or used old worn out parts. all this of course without being there and actually seeing or hearing what is really happening, do you have an oil pressure gauge? if so , what is it reading hot/cold ?

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i recently went this through this same thing with a 360. my rockers/pushrods were tight when i took it apart. after the rebuild , which included an aftermarket cam , my **** was all loose on top. new shafts, new stamped rockers, new lifters, new springs, fresh heads , no deck or head machine work. it turns out the cam has a smaller base circle by .010 . the only thing that cured it outside of longer pushrods or lash caps was a set of 273 adjustable rockers. this very well could be the problem with yours. hard to say without being there.
 
I honestly don't think 200 miles would have hurt anything. However, keep in mind that initial startup and first run is very critical to camshaft and lifter breakin. If I were you, I would not turn the key again until I had addressed all of the issues at hand. This includes that fuel line as well. PUt it together right the first time and you'll not have to go back over it a second time. Not trying to be harsh, I am simply trying to save you a lot of trouble.
 
i just hope my cam and lifters are okey and yeah going to get the fuel line and rocker thing done...
I honestly don't think 200 miles would have hurt anything. However, keep in mind that initial startup and first run is very critical to camshaft and lifter breakin. If I were you, I would not turn the key again until I had addressed all of the issues at hand. This includes that fuel line as well. PUt it together right the first time and you'll not have to go back over it a second time. Not trying to be harsh, I am simply trying to save you a lot of trouble.
 
i just hope my cam and lifters are okey and yeah going to get the fuel line and rocker thing done...

i help you and help you i cant even get a simple thanks? LMAO
its all good man, good luck to you...
 
dint see your early post but yeah thanks alot man and i had the rockers all tight and it made a less funny sound and only from 1 side ...i just talked to the mech (pissed)and he said he put .20 spacers on maybe thats the problem anyways taking it to a new mech tommorow:)
i help you and help you i cant even get a simple thanks? LMAO
its all good man, good luck to you...
 
IMO i would get some videos get on youtube get some books and learn how to rebuild a mopar engine and learn how to adjust your valvetrain. if you have some knowledge about it, you will understand how it works, and like super said you MUST reroute that fuel line away from the header, run it at the front of the engine behind the alternator.
 
Never tried it, so I didn't even know the intake would fit both ways. Also didn't know that there were 6 cylinder road runners in '73. What rear end is in that car?
 
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