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Slicks are on...... Let's go !

The 3310 should be about as good as you can get for what it seems like your combination is( especially with the secondary metering block). In addition to the vacuum spring you may try changing shooter size a bit and the accelerator pump cam. Of course the main jet size may want a size or two different, but I presume you've done that. 104-105 is a good MPH for upper 12's. What's your gear?
 
Man do I remember trying for the 12s...lol. I got to 12.5 . for reference..72 charger stock bottom end, ported, bigger valves 906 heads milled 30 thou, .509 cam holly 800 mechanical secondary, 3500 stall, 4.30 gear, Same tires. 60 ft times were 2.3. Crossed the line about 106 to 108.
For what its worth if anything
 
I actually have a drive shaft loop already. I'm not competing , but why would I need longer wheel studs ?

Tech inspector needs to verify the lug engagement. 3/4 in lug needs to engage 3/4 in into the nut. Can't verify with a closed end lug nut. Most inspectors will want to see the lug protrude outside the nut equal to the diameter of the stud.
 
Tech inspector needs to verify the lug engagement. 3/4 in lug needs to engage 3/4 in into the nut. Can't verify with a closed end lug nut. Most inspectors will want to see the lug protrude outside the nut equal to the diameter of the stud.
I'm pretty sure the IHRA rule is that the stud must extend past the outer edge of the hub 1x the diameter of the stud.
 
Tech inspector needs to verify the lug engagement. 3/4 in lug needs to engage 3/4 in into the nut. Can't verify with a closed end lug nut. Most inspectors will want to see the lug protrude outside the nut equal to the diameter of the stud.

Probably 1000 passes at several tracks and street cars in the high 11, 12 and 13 sec range. Never once had an inspector asked about lug nut engagement.

Most, but not all were "street tires"
 
Probably 1000 passes at several tracks and street cars in the high 11, 12 and 13 sec range. Never once had an inspector asked about lug nut engagement.

Most, but not all were "street tires"
I think slicks are what triggers it.
 
Never had anyone concerned about the lug nuts. Usually racing on open test and tune night . they warned my buddy about his traction bars being lower the the edge of the rim. Helmet, they may check for a drive shaft loop on slick cars. Unless your rumning 10s they arwnt to worried.
And if be I could just put on an open nut. The lugs are long enough for 3/4.

But way off topic now on something that doesn't matter
 
This may not be on topic, but is interesting. Tech inspection that doesn't really look too hard. Reminds me of the early '70's at small almost NHRA tracks. The streeters would break stuff, oil down & sometimes crash. Lug studs & nuts were a problem for a while, aftermarket mag wheels with different hub thicknesses & stock studs. Result was cars into the guard rails. Basic NHRA safety regulations generally came from actual events (2 year cert on harnesses are the exception).
 
Lug studs & nuts were a problem for a while, aftermarket mag wheels with different hub thicknesses & stock studs.

This. And it happened frequently on the street too back then. There were certainly some quality and compatability issues back in the day.
 
Only bad thing about “loose tech” inspections is the car in the other lane.

By all means, please continue to argue with they’ve “never checked” defense. They’ve never checked my SFI flex plate or transmission blanket. Those parts aren’t there for the inspection, they’re there because I like my feet attached to my legs. :thumbsup:
 
Only bad thing about “loose tech” inspections is the car in the other lane.

By all means, please continue to argue with they’ve “never checked” defense. They’ve never checked my SFI flex plate or transmission blanket. Those parts aren’t there for the inspection, they’re there because I like my feet attached to my legs. :thumbsup:

When safety is an issue, I agree.

Steel wheel with factory studs will be fine all day long on a 13 second car. If not, tires would be falling off everywhere all the time.
 
When safety is an issue, I agree.

Steel wheel with factory studs will be fine all day long on a 13 second car. If not, tires would be falling off everywhere all the time.
This may not be on topic, but is interesting. Tech inspection that doesn't really look too hard. Reminds me of the early '70's at small almost NHRA tracks. The streeters would break stuff, oil down & sometimes crash. Lug studs & nuts were a problem for a while, aftermarket mag wheels with different hub thicknesses & stock studs. Result was cars into the guard rails. Basic NHRA safety regulations generally came from actual events (2 year cert on harnesses are the exception).
I think that goes all the way back to the late sixties/early seventies, when the supertrick and centerline pizza cutters came out, with the 1 1/2 thick hubs. Also, especially on the 7 /16 stud cars. Wrong lugs/short studs= wheels fall off.
How many here know that a some speed point, rubber valve stems arent nhra legal? Steel stems required.
Everything i race, with the exception of a stone stock car has long studs, open lugs, and steel stems. Maybe that is why tech never says anything.
 
I think that goes all the way back to the late sixties/early seventies, when the supertrick and centerline pizza cutters came out, with the 1 1/2 thick hubs. Also, especially on the 7 /16 stud cars. Wrong lugs/short studs= wheels fall off.

Yep.
 
I think all I am trying to say is , there is nothing unsafe about the studs / lugs on the car.

technically frowned appon I guess ? At the right track, but not unsafe
 
With a steel wheel center, the stock 1/2-20 studs are fine. You could put open lugs on it, if you want, then tech will be fine with it.
The problem is with guys that put custom aluminum wheels that use taper seat lugs (as opposed to the older style mags that used mag style shouldered lugs) and DONT change the studs. Using a 3/4" thick center (typical on a torque thrust, for example) and not changing to longer studs, is BEGGING for trouble.
 
A dumb question, Do you only need 3" studs on driven wheels?
I dont know nhra requirment to answer that question, but i like to swap around my front tires and wheels, to change looks and tire heights, and those include supertrick and centerline pizza cutters, so i NEED long studs on the front too. If someone was going to change the rears, i would change the front too.
Edit: and even with 3"studs, i can run factory steelies with poverty caps.
 
Near as I can tell, NHRA doesn't spec the stud length, just that the stud thread at least the diameter of the stud into the lug nut.
The wheel hub thicknesses do vary a fair amount. Super Tricks are a fair amount thicker than the Centerlines were/are. Lug nuts that fit the Centerlines aren't long enough to get through the inner half of a Super Trick, longer lug nuts needed for the Tricks.
I have 3" X 1/2" hardened studs front & rear on the Satellite.
 
Near as I can tell, NHRA doesn't spec the stud length, just that the stud thread at least the diameter of the stud into the lug nut.
The wheel hub thicknesses do vary a fair amount. Super Tricks are a fair amount thicker than the Centerlines were/are. Lug nuts that fit the Centerlines aren't long enough to get through the inner half of a Super Trick, longer lug nuts needed for the Tricks.
I have 3" X 1/2" hardened studs front & rear on the Satellite.
Agree, but! It depends which centerlines you have . I have a pair of the "pro stock" 15x4 fronts that use the same mag lugs as other sizes of centerlines, but my old (early eighties) centerline autodrags 15x3 1/2, use the same lugs as my supertricks. The tricks and cl's needed the three inch studs to be legal. But you are right, length isnt specified, only a certain amount of threads through the lugs.
 
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