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Soda Blaster

I know you can rent sand blasters at most rental places. However, to answer your question, please know I am not trying to piss in your Cheerios, lord knows I have ENOUGH friggin problems in my own world, just trying to look out for a fellow MOPAR'er. Soda is caustic and it can cause issues; just clean it all up IAW directions. I can't tell you how to b/c I've never used Soda. Any media can warp panels, it's the air pressure that is key, any media will heat up; it's all friction; Sand, Plastic, Soda, Walnuts etc. The key is low air pressure. If you just want to clean up inside of your fenders, it will take all day, but, go for the HF unit, you may want to buy your Soda from someplace like http://www.sotabrasives.com/proofs/siteredesign/redesign.php or http://www.surfacepreparation.com/ as you'll get it far cheaper there than at HF. Go for it, and post pics.
 
Plastic or plastic mix...Donny will definitly give you a heads up. I know the plastic works well (A) because it is the shape/configuration of the media that removes the scale/rust more efficently, unlike Black Beauty or Aluminum, which in order to be effective need high pressure/momentum thus creating more friction and heat. Downside of plastic is you need a "real deal compressor", like a two stage 5-10 HP at least to have the proper CFM to back it up. A single stage 3-5 HP 60-80 gallon compressor form Home Depot/Lowes will not get you there. (B) Plastic will cut your removal/cleaning way down v.s Alum./Glass/Black Beauty.

I have an Eastwood 100LB pressurized blaster I use with my 5HP compressor at home. By no means do i just have it hooked directly up to my compressor. I have 3/4" Class M copper running up the garage wall and all the way across at a 4 degree angle. Then into a leg/trap with drain and coming across with another 6 degree angle, then down into 1/2" downlegs to create a venturi effect. Split manifolds, one for lubricated air, one for dry air. There is a couple other traps/drains along the way. I have a desiccant dryer along with a good filter/regulator running out to the media blaster along with a disposable desiccant filter and another filter/regulator on the blaster. i spent quite some time studying Donny's threads, other peoples threads, and other internet resources before putting this system together. The main issues I seen was people buying small blasters, just pluging them into the undersized compressor's without the proper piping and filters/dryers and then wonder why they don't have the cfm to push media, or are constantly pluging up there blaster with water/moisture. The bottom line is a 5HP or less single stage will be working pretty hard to keep up with most blasters, thus condensing and creating a lot of vapor/water in your lines. Most companys that sell these smaller package blasters are pretty decieving saying, "low cfm, low pressure is all you need with your 3.5 HP compressor!" That simply is not the case. If you "plug and play" withouth the proper filters, piping system, and a substandard run of the mill compressor made for pumping up bike tires, you will have problems!

I use black beauty or aluminum a majority of the time with a 3MM nozzle but keep in mind that i'm primarily not blasing external sheetmetal. I don't think I would take the leap to try to blast a whole car. Would be way to expensive/time consuming and would make much more sense to farm out to the proffesionals like Donny. I do admit that it does work very well for smaller parts/areas and I am pretty happy with the unit thus far. Also, be prepared for a mess. You need a larger area to accomodate a blaster along with proper ventilation and personal protection. I will be blasting my own inner fenders area on my roadrunner project as well. And as far as soda, I agree with the other guys, at a do it yourselfer level, I would not do it. It's caustic, messy, and is not going to clean out those rusty/mudded areas worth a damn. Good luck, hope this helps.
 
I have a 33 gallon Craftsman compressor. Does not sound like it will be good enough. The professionals want a lot of money though. I was quoted 200 bucks for the inner fenders alone. Seemed like a lot to me.
 
200 Bucks....you could ask Donny, but seems about right or fair to me. When you think about it, most automotive type service companies primarily charge between $45.00-80.00 bucks an hour for labor. Obviously techs don't get paid that, but covers insurance, benifits..and all the other mumbo jumbo.. Then there's that matter of prep, consumables, equipment maintenance, and over head. To blast an area as large as under the hood, you're probably looking at their shop min. price. You could always do it the old fashioned way..:buffer: or chemical, but will have to decide if the mess, time, cost of chemical strippers, sand paper, wire wheels is worth less than $200 bucks to ya.

good luck
 
well looking at the specs of my compressor and the HF blaster, I don't think I have a choice.
 
Hope you didn't pick it up yet. If you go to harborfreight.com/carcraft you will see coupons posted, including one for 20% off any one item. I use these on a regular basis, so I don't even need to pay HF's already cheap prices. Have a blast! Keep us posted on results.
 
Wow, I'd LOVE to get $200.00 per fender! With me, as I guess with all folks, time is money. I have such a stout air compressor (50 HP) rotary screw, that I can do a complete fender inside and out in about 30-40 mins. I get $150.00 per hour. As I said, 200 bucks, send 'em my way!

Oh yeah, it's also a balance between doing it right yourself for a one or two shot deal, or, paying someone to do it correctly. The one shot deal will cost you some $$, or, you can spend all day on the inside of a fender with a 5 HP compressor; what's your time worth?
 
I returned the hf blaster I had. I was trying to blast my hood hinges, I went through two bags of ther media, made a huge mess the I have yet to finish cleaning up and it didn't touch most of the paint I was trying to remove. My advice is that of you don't want to spend the money for a good one and don't have a large area to work in take your stuff to a professional. All the HF stuff is use and throw away.
 
From what I've read though, soda blasting doesn't cause the warping other media can. Which media would you recommend in lieu of soda? ...

My guy uses plastic media. He swears by it and he and his team are really good.

As for the cost, man you guys are expensive. I got my entire front clip frame done and my rear sand blasted for $100 total. I had my spitfire frame done for $75. Hes a friend and he likes helping out guys trying to save musclecars. He does this professionally, so his shop has a massive compressor. He normally does farm machinery top to bottom inside his reclamation booth. He has two car lifts, a bobcat with forks, and a front loader (fullsize) so if it can be lifted or moved, he can blast it.

For the rates he charges me, I will never buy a sandblaster.

Randy
 
Sounds like a smoking deal Randy. Wish I had someone with those kinda rates around here. I would have never invested my time or money into what I got now.
 
Those are insanely low prices there Randy. I supposed the 100 bucks is just beer money. Time is money, I try to keep my prices in line with how long it takes me, but, 90% of the time I go over in time, and don't add time costs. It's a gradual creep in prices for me over the years; I just did 2 Challenger doors, complete doors, both of them in about 65-70 minutes.
 
Those are insanely low prices there Randy. I supposed the 100 bucks is just beer money. ...

Oh, and I always pay in cash, so who knows where the money goes? Cash is king and I live in a very low-cost town far from the mark-up of the big cities.

Rural rules!!

Randy
 
I did mine with a grinder wire wheel and some metal conditioner on the indide and just sanded the out side down,I have a blaster but didn't want to chance it.I think they came out ok....see pic's

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They came out very nice. Is that silver paint/primer or bare-metal? I wonder, how many hours you got in those fenders? If you have the time, then you win!
 
They came out very nice. Is that silver paint/primer or bare-metal? I wonder, how many hours you got in those fenders? If you have the time, then you win!

The first pic's are bare metal the last to are Silver paint then I used some black under coating on the inner fender. I put 10 hr's in on 1 fender and the headder panel.
 
Media blasting car bodies is always a hotley debated subject. It is true that baking soda can cause problems for paint. When it happens is if it gets into areas that you are unable to vacuum, rinse pressure wash out or air blow. The guys that do it for a living have alot of work to do and generally have an Industrial size air compressor. Most guys just do not have this available. I personally have used chemical dip stripping and soda blasting. I find that it is very very slow if you do not posess the Industrial equipment. The Harbor Freight equipment is cheap stuff and most of us know that. Why not look for a used blaster on ebay or4 craigslist?. I purchased a used Sandy Jet pressurized unit for 75.00. You also need very dry air with a water seperator and oil seperator. If you use a siphon feed unit your going to find it very hard to use. THey clog and are constantly running out of blast media near the pick up tube. Look for a sandy Jet pressure fed unit, they are built like a tank and work a little better. But remember these units are like comparing a carburetor to modern fuel injection. Also alot of guys up here in Jersey are using black walnu shell at .68 cents per poundfrom a company called AGSCO COroration. This kind of company can be found across the us under Abrasive media. The other media for careful basting is Dupont Star Blast XL which runs .29 cents per pound. This material is heavier and requires more air and cfm than the walnut media and you will have less issues with cleaing out from nooks and crannies. Do not be fooled the baking soda is very good for concrete walls, masonry and some use on cars. BUt it is not environmetally friendly when it gets mixed with old lead based paint pigments and can still cause respiratory issues. You will not have the problems of sand over heating metal, but it takes alot of work.
 
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