Solid Motor Mounts?

[macdiesel]

I have a '67 Belvedere II with a 440. I replaced the stock oil pan with a Milodon road race pan (31580). Its a truely trick piece, definately worth the $. My issue is the cross steer arm hits the back of the pan. Someone said new motor mounts should fix it. Makes sense, mine have seen better days.

Has anyone had any experience with solid motor mounts? I know they give a lot more vibration through the frame but is it unlivable on the street?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Try the Shumacher poly mounts. I've got them on my car and the engine doesnt budge an inch.

 

[daredevil]

ive heard of people drilling thru them and running a 3/4 bolt and nut to remove deflection for better reaction times.

 

[Patrick]

I promise you don't want solid mounts, while destroying your car they shack your teeth out. Like 5.7 HIME said Shumacher poly mounts should solve your problem and they don't break. shumacher.com is where you can get them.

 

[macdiesel]

Are they really that bad??? It'd just be temporary anyway. I just checked out the Schumacker mounts. $163 to get them to HI ain't bad. Unfortunately cash is so tight right now that I'll have to wait a few months for them.

 

[69 Runner]

No, they aren't really that bad. I ran a solid mount on the DRIVER'S SIDE only on my 440 Six Pack 4 speed Challenger. I did it because I ran it in the Pure Stock and Factory Stock races. I also drove it on the street.

I had NO issues, and would have no problem with doing that again.

 

[1badstroker]

Mind is old school, Use a chain with 1 inch links and chain the drivers side down. It works real well and it is inexpensive.

 

[macdiesel]

I ordered some moroso solid mounts from summit. One day I'll get the poly lock ones. I home this fixes my linkage issue. I AM NOT BEATING ON THAT PAN! If it deosn't work, that center link will come out and my Mikita 7.7 amp die grinder will come out to play. All this just to swap out an oil pan.... thems the brakes I guess

 

[prhousejr]

Mind is old school, Use a chain with 1 inch links and chain the drivers side down. It works real well and it is inexpensive.

seen it done....and it works great.

 

[Patrick]

By all means with the solid motor mounts, don't install a solid transmission mount. It will break the tail housing the first time you get on it. Been there done that with a street B body.

 

[macdiesel]

Got the motor mounts in Saturday. That was hell! Who ever installed them last used 7/16" bolts in the 5/8" bolt holes, so I had to travel all ove the island to find a place that had the hardware. All that work and my center link still hits the oil pan. I guess the center link will have to shed some weight. I'd rather not grind it, but I'm not denting in my oil pan. I shouldn't have to grind much off. Anybody got any other ideas?

 

[Meep-Meep]

Personally I would avoid the solid mounts unless you do what 69 did and only run one. Something about locking the block down solid by those ears on a flexible unibody bothers me. I've never tried the Scumackers but I like the concept. Long before Schumacker I ran OEM mounts and a turnbuckle and it never let me down.

 

[macdiesel]

I made swap to solids and couldn't be more pleased. It made the car even more beastly. There is a very noticable difference in the toque that gets put to the ground and the only vibration annoyance is the glove box door wich got fixed with some weather tape.

 

[macdiesel]

That might have been me. I bought a set but instead of the center link hitting, the armd hit. Its deffinately a motor placement issue. It has to come forward, but before that can happen I need to make some room by installing a thinner fan.