Ironbuilt
Well-Known Member
Hopefully not these!!!What brand of jack stands?
BTW, Idiots use cinder blocks.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html
Someone removed my entire front suspension...
- Thread starter pdiz
- Start date
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html
WP29440SE
Well-Known Member
LMAO! I actually pictured a buddy of his stripping the thing apart and wondered off drinking beer, it didn't even occur to me he did the teardown Lol
pdiz
Well-Known Member
Thank you for this! How many Mopars have you owned? My first car was a '72 Charger (318), second was a '69 Satellite, had two '70 Super Bees, another '69 Satellite, and now my '73 Road Runner... I THINK that's all I had... Had newer cars, but always had an old Mopar for some reason... I guess I could never let it go...
- Local time
- 2:27 PM
- Joined
- May 14, 2011
- Messages
- 18,199
- Reaction score
- 35,440
- Location
- On the Ridge, TN
Glad to read you already have an FSM. That's good - as others have already mentioned, the more
information the better. As I preach often, this ain't drive-thru service and there's nothing "instant"
about this hobby - one HAS to "do their homework" to do it right (and sometimes, to avoid injury
and/or damage to the car!).
All the information in the world is out there, if one will only take the time and make the effort....
nothing here that hasn't been done by many others before us, after all.
I like to break down things into sub-assemblies, smaller jobs myself.
The FSM comes in handy for this, the way it's written and in the exploded assembly pics and diagrams.
Control arms this, ball joints that, t-bars the other....they're all tackled individually in the FSM so it becomes
like building a life-sized model kit.
Ain't no thang. Get after it. After each sub-assembly has been done correctly, sit back, take a swig of
whatever liquid refreshment you prefer and enjoy the moment...
then get to reading about the NEXT one.
Before you know it, it starts to make sense and the light bulb comes on!
information the better. As I preach often, this ain't drive-thru service and there's nothing "instant"
about this hobby - one HAS to "do their homework" to do it right (and sometimes, to avoid injury
and/or damage to the car!).
All the information in the world is out there, if one will only take the time and make the effort....
nothing here that hasn't been done by many others before us, after all.
I like to break down things into sub-assemblies, smaller jobs myself.
The FSM comes in handy for this, the way it's written and in the exploded assembly pics and diagrams.
Control arms this, ball joints that, t-bars the other....they're all tackled individually in the FSM so it becomes
like building a life-sized model kit.
Ain't no thang. Get after it. After each sub-assembly has been done correctly, sit back, take a swig of
whatever liquid refreshment you prefer and enjoy the moment...
then get to reading about the NEXT one.
Before you know it, it starts to make sense and the light bulb comes on!
- Local time
- 2:27 PM
- Joined
- May 14, 2011
- Messages
- 18,199
- Reaction score
- 35,440
- Location
- On the Ridge, TN
What are these "jack stands" of which you speak?What brand of jack stands?
BTW, Idiots use cinder blocks.
rich hourigan
Well-Known Member
i personally commend this guy, he humbled himself and asked for help, he took this assembly as far as he could and had to ask for help, to me this is what this forum is all about. he did ask for help with humor and politeness. I am not gonna help him with his assembly because i am also an idiot, but learning as i go, this forum has helped me many many times with a lot of stupid questions and for that i thank you guys for your knowledge and patience...carry on
myk r sanchez
Well-Known Member
OP, don't be so hard on yourself, man...
WP29440SE
Well-Known Member
too many to count lol , that plate painted red above, has two adjusting stands poking up through it, those have to be in position before the plate is bolted down. that's what your uca attaches to and thats how you adjust your camber/casterThank you for this! How many Mopars have you owned? My first car was a '72 Charger (318), second was a '69 Satellite, had two '70 Super Bees, another '69 Satellite, and now my '73 Road Runner... I THINK that's all I had... Had newer cars, but always had an old Mopar for some reason... I guess I could never let it go...
- Local time
- 11:27 AM
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2010
- Messages
- 17,372
- Reaction score
- 20,919
- Location
- Muroc Dry Lake Bed
Gee moparedtn, dont forget..there is a "ski" at the end of superbee!
pdiz
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the support, everyone! Pics/progress soon... I had to make the decision as to whether to use the new-in-box Hotchkis quick-ratio pitman arm and idler arm I got super cheap off E-bay a while back... I guess I kind of chickened out on it because the damned pitman arm doesn't have any indexing on it. At least the MOOG part has the correct OEM indexing (sure, you can get it wrong 3x, but if you kind of remember how it was on there, or line everything up, presuming your wheels were straight when you removed everything, you're probably good). In the end, I went OEM (aka MOOG) to make life easier, so maybe I'll install at a later time or sell it...
pdiz
Well-Known Member
Thanks, bud. Also, "That's what she said!" (I know, overused joke so it's not even funny anymore?)
halojumper
Well-Known Member
Don't be so rough on yourself. Take lots of pictures, notes, and have a service manual.So some "idiot" removed every part of my entire front suspension a "couple" years ago (engine/trans/K-member not removed), and now he can't figure out in what order to re-assemble.
The car is a '73 Road Runner. Frontend is on jack stands.
This "idiot" sandblasted and painted and/or RPM (Rust Prevention Magic) every piece that could rust.
This "idiot" figured out how to remove/reinstall the bushings in place for the LCA arm using a Harbor Freight press, and even figured out how to weld a strengthening plate to them.
This "idiot" has Firm Feel's tubular UCA.
This "idiot" even removed and reinstalled the rear torsion-bar cross-member and installed solid bushings after sandblasting and painting that piece. "Idiot" even figured out how to install solid bushings on the K-frame, etc.
This "idiot" is armed with all new MOOG suspension bushings, ready-to-go LCAs, ready-to-go spindles, but is confused about what can be assembled/torqued off the car, what can be assembled but not torqued until the car is on the ground, etc. What to do first? Second? Third?
"Idiot" does have a shop manual, full tools, including 250 ft. lb. torque wrenches and compressor and pneumatic tools and even Mopar ball joint sockets, etc.
But now "idiot" is staring at a bunch of parts off the car and doesn't know in what order he should proceed...
So far, he's done this:
Installed the floating torsion-bar rear crossmember using solid bushings, torqued to “only” 35 ft. lbs. at the recommendation of Firm Feel (they aren’t Firm Feel’s parts, but they are from a defunct company called “solidbushings.com").
He's looking at this:
spindles, knuckle arm, caliper bracket, torsion bars, full MOOG bushings, etc.… torque now, or just mate it all up and torque it later? What should go on first, though? Tie rod ends? Pitman arm? UCA? LCA? Spindle?
"Idiot" would prefer someone that can explain to him like he's three, and if it's very detailed, can even thank them with beer/PayPal/etc.
"Idiot" can look up torque specs from the factory manual, and even procedures, but it's difficult when EVERYTHING is disassembled due to the "modular" way the factory manual is written.
"Idiot" is just looking for something like:
CAR OFF GROUND, so…
(EXAMPLE ONLY
1. Install strut rods to car at this point… DON’T TORQUE UNTIL CAR ON GROUND ** OR** Install strut rods to LCA and torque to spec, THEN install strut rod to car, but don’t TORQUE until car on ground
2. Install spindle knuckle and torque down BEFORE putting on car
That kind of stuff… And is looking for where to begin...
"Idiot" may be me, but don't tell anyone.
pdiz
Well-Known Member
Okay, sorry for the huge delay in progress... I am mostly done, but, on the driver's side, I can't seem to lift the LCA high enough to allow the LBJ bolt to go through it so I can put the nut on it (I could probably but a jack under it and it would go through)... Strut rod arms and tie rods aren't connected just to rule those out... The passenger side installed just fine... I had both LCAs hanging down at time of torsion bar installation. They both raise to about parallel with the floor before I feel the resistance of the TBs and can't lift them any more by hand (from like a 45-degree droop to 0-degrees when I lift them up). Do you think when I installed the driver's side torsion bar, it wasn't hanging down far enough? I am sure the knuckle arm is installed correctly on both knuckles. Both LBJs installed fine, seated flatly, torqued to 125 FT LBS. with no issue. Very confused...
joe smith
Well-Known Member
I remember when I first got into cars that I would do a drum brake reline ONE wheel at a time so I could look at a brake assembly together to see how to put it back together..LOL WE all learn and have learned by our mistakes...….
joe smith
Well-Known Member
I thought the recall was only for the steel jack stands???
pdiz
Well-Known Member
I should add that I have Firm Feel's tubular UCAs installed. Maybe rather than bring the LCA up, I should remove the rubber bump stop on the UCA and bring that down. Didn't have to do it on the other side, though, so not sure if this is the right approach...
Similar threads
