Splicing in a Proportioning valve?

[wsutard]

I need to "splice in" a proportioning valve between the current drum block and the rear brake line. Am I going to be able to pull the rear line back 6" or do I need to cut it somehow? You will see from the pics where I plan to put the valve and how long of a line the kit gave me for going from the current block to the new valve.

I'm afraid that I will kink the rear line if I just pull it back vs cutting the excess off. However, I don't have tools to cut a line and flare it again.

 

[moparnation74]

I would think pulling it down below the frame rail may work out better. Just release the line from the clips and the valve and test it. I hope you have a brake line wrench to release the nut from the valve. A regular box end wrench will strip the head.

If you have a harbor freight near by the carry an inexpensive kit. It takes a bit of elbow grease to flare it...

 

[moes]

you will need to cut the brake line first to the length needed ( the small cutter will cost less than $10), then you will need to flare the brake line after putting the nut on the brake line before flaring the end. You might be able to borrow or rent the flaring tool from an auto store or you can buy one. I would practise making a couple of flares on some brake line if you have not done this before.

 

[wsutard]

I would think pulling it down below the frame rail may work out better. Just release the line from the clips and the valve and test it. I hope you have a brake line wrench to release the nut from the valve. A regular box end wrench will strip the head.

If you have a harbor freight near by the carry an inexpensive kit. It takes a bit of elbow grease to flare it...

Glad I asked as I had no idea there was such thing as a brake line wrench. I will grab some at HF. I will check to see if I can pull it down the rail. My assumption is there is some kind of bend towards the rear that might get kinked if I do this.

you will need to cut the brake line first to the length needed ( the small cutter will cost less than $10), then you will need to flare the brake line after putting the nut on the brake line before flaring the end. You might be able to borrow or rent the flaring tool from an auto store or you can buy one. I would practise making a couple of flares on some brake line if you have not done this before.

View attachment 412846

Would this be the set to use to flare the end? http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/flaring-tool/oem-sae-double-flaring-tool/69341_0_0/

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Yes, that Autozone tool is exactly what you need. I own one of those. I've found that it works well, except for smaller stainless steel brake lines. For those, the clamp is not strong enough to hold the line while you flare it (SS is harder).

 

[moparnation74]

For example....

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc...gclid=CI6EqMLAn9MCFUq5wAodpagN9w&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Torkmnstr]

I spliced mine in up top set to the master cylinder. Easier to tweak, don't for get to double flare or a better seal.

 

[wsutard]

I spliced mine in up top set to the master cylinder. Easier to tweak, don't for get to double flare or a better seal.
View attachment 412854

That is a great idea for the location. Does the line still go into the brass block then back to the rear?

 

[Torkmnstr]

Yea, everything down below is stock

 

[wsutard]

Yea, everything down below is stock

My line does a loop going down to the brass block. Can I stretch undo the loop to get more length to connect to the valve or is it there for a reason?

 

[64SF]

I spliced mine in up top set to the master cylinder. Easier to tweak, don't for get to double flare or a better seal.
View attachment 412854

I'll be doing the same. Also like the black on the engine!

 

[Torkmnstr]

My line does a loop going down to the brass block. Can I stretch undo the loop to get more length to connect to the valve or is it there for a reason?

I made that front tube to gain the extra distance. Don't mess with the loop.

 

[wsutard]

Ok. What an I doing wrong. I test fit the little supplied brake line with the proportioning valve. The line has tons of play in it, even with the nut sinched down. See the red dot before and after to see the play. This can't be normal...

 

[khryslerkid]

Did they give you a brass fitting to go into that port first?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/6302...4&cadevice=m&gclid=CNLpjKmQoNMCFcpLDQod4HIJbg

 

[wsutard]

Did they give you a brass fitting to go into that port first?
View attachment 412922

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/6302...4&cadevice=m&gclid=CNLpjKmQoNMCFcpLDQod4HIJbg

Yep. I knew I was being an idiot...

 

[wsutard]

How tight do those go?

 

[khryslerkid]

Yep. I knew I was being an idiot...

No idiots here. Just trial and error

 

[wsutard]

Trial and error, error, error.

 

[khryslerkid]

How tight do those go?

They are a tapered pipe thread. Make them tight but not crazy, vein popping tight.

 

[wsutard]

I need to bend/twist the original line 90 degrees toward the front of the car. Can I just twist it or do I need to bend it straight then back the direction I need?