Stamped rocker arms vs. adjustable, hydraulic cam

[rmchrgr]

Helping a friend build a stroker 383/438". We are at the point of needing rockers. Cam is a Hughes SEH2832BL-10 hydraulic, 228/232 @ .050", 110ºLSA, .353"/.357" lobe lift. The cam has about .529" valve lift with a 1.5 ratio rocker. The Stealth springs are only good for .510" valve lift so we will be using Hughes #1106 springs which is their recommended part for that cam. These are 150lbs @ 1.880" installed & 335# @ .550" lift. He is using Stealth heads which have spring cups installed.

We are trying to "keep costs down" which obviously is tough on any custom built engine but we have been contemplating using stock-style stamped steel rockers. On a relatively mild combo like this, would we be OK with stock rockers or should we really be looking at adjustable rocker arms?

Seems like we are close to the adjustable rocker range but I'm not sure what the overall benefit would be over the stock style in this situation. This is going to be an entirely street driven deal, probably won't see 5,000 rpm with any regularity.

I know rocker arms are not a place to skimp but I'm not sure it makes sense to spend the coin on Harland Sharps etc. Or, for that matter, does it make sense to even spend whatever extra money it takes over the cost of replacement stamped rockers to get a set of lower-end adjustable roller rockers?

Thanks for any input.

 

[beanhead]

Stamped rockers will suffice to get the engine running. Just realize that they are going to cost lift and you run the risk of a pushrod breaking through the rocker cup.. they're fairly rugged for a stock piece but they just weren't designed to run for any length of time in an engine like you're building.

 

[Sahara]

I’m in the same boat; building a 440 with a .529 lift juice cam.
Ehrenberg recommends stock stamped rockers for up to about .525 lift. I’m gonna talk to my engine builder but unless they can give me a real good reason not to run them I’m going for stock stamped.

 

[RemCharger]

I just put some on a .533 voodoo cam 440. Hasn't run yet, but after a conversation with a buddy that put some on a .560 cam, and that superbee ran 11.60s reliably, I felt pretty good with it. People do it more often than you think.

 

[4mulas]

I’m doing something similar to your build, except it’s a 400/451 and the next size up Hughes cam, the 32/36 duration one (about 10 thou more lift at 1.5 and more duration). I was contemplating stockers too, but in the end decided to get the adjustable. Comp magnum ones. Like the other poster said you loose lift with stockers, run the risk of punching a hole through them, and can’t set the exact lifter preload you want as well unless you want to measure and make 16 different length pushrods to accommodate the stockers..

Just get them, don’t scrimp now, he’ll be happy in the long run

 

[PRHeads]

30 years ago I was running low 11’s with a hyd cam, stock rockers, and adjustable pushrods.

I also poked a few holes in rocker arms.
And I had a slower rate cam and about 30lbs less on the seat.

If you go the stamped route, and plan on straying very far from home ....... carry a few spares, and whatever else you need to swap them out.

My “go to” rockers for hyd cam applications are the Mancini units.

 

[rmchrgr]

Thanks for the replies. If this were my build, I A) most likely would not have chosen a hydraulic flat tappet cam and B) would probably not even consider using stock stamped rockers.

That said, it's not my money to spend. To put it mildly, my friend is notoriously budget-minded (=cheap) and frankly knows less than me about building engines. For example, just yesterday, we were talking about what intake to choose for the stroker. I'm going on and on about Edelbrock Performer RPM and Holley Street Dominator intakes that might cost $250-350 and he looks at me like I'm crazy and says "Jeez, I have this perfectly good 1965 factory 383 iron intake just sitting in my basement, why can't we use that?"

So based on the replies here, I'm going to try and convince him to go the adjustable rocker route. Thinking Comp Pro Magnum would be good in this application. Another possibility could be a set of the old, iron non-roller Isky/Crane adjustable ones. I looked at stainless R.A.S. (now Rocker Arms Unlimited) which look awesome but they do not list a price. If it were me, I would probably go with the iron adjustables over a lower-end roller rocker.

Another option could be to source a set of iron adjustables and send them to R.A.U. to have them blueprinted but people seem to want a lot for those old rockers now. Not sure what the cost is to have those old rocker arms set up, might be cost prohibitive over just buying a set of Pro Magnums since he would still have to get shafts, hold downs, etc.

 

[beanhead]

Thanks for the replies. If this were my build, I A) most likely would not have chosen a hydraulic flat tappet cam and B) would probably not even consider using stock stamped rockers.

That said, it's not my money to spend. To put it mildly, my friend is notoriously budget-minded (=cheap) and frankly knows less than me about building engines. For example, just yesterday, we were talking about what intake to choose for the stroker. I'm going on and on about Edelbrock Performer RPM and Holley Street Dominator intakes that might cost $250-350 and he looks at me like I'm crazy and says "Jeez, I have this perfectly good 1965 factory 383 iron intake just sitting in my basement, why can't we use that?"

So based on the replies here, I'm going to try and convince him to go the adjustable rocker route. Thinking Comp Pro Magnum would be good in this application. Another possibility could be a set of the old, iron non-roller Isky/Crane adjustable ones. I looked at stainless R.A.S. (now Rocker Arms Unlimited) which look awesome but they do not list a price. If it were me, I would probably go with the iron adjustables over a lower-end roller rocker.

Another option could be to source a set of iron adjustables and send them to R.A.U. to have them blueprinted but people seem to want a lot for those old rockers now. Not sure what the cost is to have those old rocker arms set up, might be cost prohibitive over just buying a set of Pro Magnums since he would still have to get shafts, hold downs, etc.

Take a look at the Harland Sharp/Mancini rockers that PRH mentioned. The 1.5 will run around $500, and includes billet hold downs, hardware, and shafts. I've used the same set on two engines now, they've worked well. They're solid pieces, the only difference really between them and branded HS is they ride directly on the shafts... no needle bearings in there but some guys prefer that anyway.

 

[rmchrgr]

Take a look at the Harland Sharp/Mancini rockers that PRH mentioned. The 1.5 will run around $500, and includes billet hold downs, hardware, and shafts. I've used the same set on two engines now, they've worked well. They're solid pieces, the only difference really between them and branded HS is they ride directly on the shafts... no needle bearings in there but some guys prefer that anyway.

I wasn't sure which ones he was referring to since they offer a stock-style stamped kit with shafts for $279. I have seen the red ones that they sell, guess I did not realize they were maybe by H.S. but yes, those would be a good option for sure. I have the Hughes aluminum rockers on my small block Duster, those ride on the shafts.

 

[grtflred]

My 440 with stock rockers and a .509 punched several of them bent pushrods when that happened. On my 512 build I am using the Mancini rockers. Checked them at 1000 miles perfect. Remember that you will need custom pushrods another $200 or so. Stay away from the cheap rollers!!!!!