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Starter Removal with (Hooker?) headers

68Satellite440

68Satellite440

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Guys,
Anyone gotta tips or tricks to getting this starter out?
Im trapped in every direction I go.
Ive unbolted all the studs and from header extension, only bolt left is in front of cylinder 3 and it sprayed coolant everywhere. Should’ve known that was gonna happen.

I only have about a inch and half of play underneath before it hits torsion bar. On the top side I can’t pull it off studs because it hits steering column.
Any ideas?
Thanks! -Pat

CC6BA8BE-CE9D-4579-9540-2CE225EC60CC.jpeg
 
I am not familiar with every header design but in most cases, the header has to be removed from the head to allow it to wiggle around enough to get the starter out. Full length headers make the most power but due to the space limitations, the tubes block access to the starter when bolted in place.
I've often struggled over the years with the conditions where I don't know if it makes more sense to remove all obstacles or try to work around them. Removing and reinstalling stuff takes time but the work area is now wide open. Sometimes you can work around the obstacles if you're flexible and have smaller hands.
 
If you take the motor mount bolt on that side out and place a jack with a block of wood under the motor and jack it up the motor will tilt to the right giving you more room to possibly get the header off the studs. Just watch the fan and shroud for contact. Removing the shroud might be necessary.
 
Comps or Super Comps?

I remember I could get the starter out from my Super Comps by rotating it and angling it up, then past the tube and then down.

...after all the bolts were all undone and the header flopping around.

...but the header cold stay between the head and the column.
 
I have found easiest for my car is to remove the steering shaft and the starter will then tilt up and come out that hole by cylinder 5 and 7.
 
71 b body back in the day, i pulled the steering column back just enough to reach from the top --- I think i had hooker street headers on the 383

1971 super bee.jpg
 
68 B body, manual steeering- Eagle 1-3/4, Hooker Comp 1-7/8, Hooker 2”, to the best of my recollection the headers had to be disconnected enough to drop it down some with the starter.
That’s after you’ve got the drivers side of the engine jacked way up.
The 2” hookers were easiest as I recall.

Btw, those don’t look like any Hooker headers I’ve seen.
The drivers side at least looks like these summit headers:

IMG_3633.jpeg
 
Last edited:
PRHeads said:
68 B body, manual steeering- Eagle 1-3/4, Hooker Comp 1-7/8, Hooker 2”, to the best of my recollection the headers had to be disconnected enough to drop it down some with the starter.
That’s after you’ve got the drivers side of the engine jacked way up.
The 2” hookers were easiest as I recall.

Btw, those don’t look like any Hooker headers I’ve seen.
The drivers side at least looks like these summit headers:

View attachment 1691013
Click to expand...
Thats very possible! I didn’t buy these, previous owner did.
I couldn’t find a brand name on them.
I have power steering, and there was no room at all to remove it.
I finally decided to disassemble the starter inside the header.
I ordered a mini starter from 440 source to replace it.
Im gonna see if it can fit, if not ill drain some coolant and fully unbolt header and unbolt mount and lift the engine over.
 
I'll say that's not a Hooker. Unbolt the shroud. Unbolt the driver mount bolt. Raise the left side engine. Unbolt the header at the head and at the collector flange. Hopefully you have studs to slide the header back. Which should allow enough room to remove the starter. Engine and header configurations are different, I'd done quite a few many moons ago. Once you use the proper techniques to allow access, it's really not that difficult a job.
 
WileERobby said:
I'll say that's not a Hooker. Unbolt the shroud. Unbolt the driver mount bolt. Raise the left side engine. Unbolt the header at the head and at the collector flange. Hopefully you have studs to slide the header back. Which should allow enough room to remove the starter. Engine and header configurations are different, I'd done quite a few many moons ago. Once you use the proper techniques to allow access, it's really not that difficult a job.
Click to expand...
I have 5 studs and 1 bolt on cylinder 3 for some reason. I took it out to try to remove header, and spilled coolant everywhere.
Not sure why I'm missing a stud.
 
As has been stated.. Not Hookers... Don't know what they are but I know what they aren't... I've paid for enough Hookers to know....
 
Well for anyone that cares to know or is following along the post, the final results of these (Summit?) Headers, I could not remove the starter in one piece.
I disassembled it inside the header into 3 pieces.
I couldn’t install the new 440 Source mini starter either.
Tried from below, tried removing engine mount bolt and lifting.
Was trapped both times by the steering column and torsion bar.

So the next plan of attack, I knocked out the pin on drive shaft coupler and disconnected from power steering box. Unbolted steering column and pulled it back into drivers seat. With that out of the way, i was able to fit mini starter in between 1st and 4th tube. (See pic above for reference)
Hope this helps someone!
These headers are junk and are going to be replaced. They’re rusted and have been modified by a Neanderthal with a hammer.
Thanks for the suggestions, -Pat
 
Some headers make little or no provision for maintenance to the starter motor while the header is installed. On more than one occasion, we have had to remove or nearly remove a driver's side header to properly access the starter motor.

Once it becomes clear the header has to move out of the way, in order to remove the starter motor whole, save yourself some heartache and drop the header, already.
 
Rishi said:
Some headers make little or no provision for maintenance to the starter motor while the header is installed. On more than one occasion, we have had to remove or nearly remove a driver's side header to properly access the starter motor.

Once it becomes clear the header has to move out of the way, in order to remove the starter motor whole, save yourself some heartache and drop the header, already.
Click to expand...
I would have gladly removed the header to save me some time and headache.
I had already drained the coolant. But you see, thanks to the studs, not bolts, the header couldn’t be removed because the studs are so long that the header is trapped against the steering column upon attempted removal. I think the only way to remove these headers is either remove studs, or remove engine. I think these headers were placed in, then engine installed. Piss poor design.
 
radical rob said:
I have found easiest for my car is to remove the steering shaft and the starter will then tilt up and come out that hole by cylinder 5 and 7.
Click to expand...
I second this that’s exactly how I did it. I refused to unbolt the headers again so I dropped the column and pulled it back just enough to squeeze the starter between the pipes
 
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