starter teeth sticking to flywheel

[young99]

I am working my way through a 727 to a833 swap and noticed an issue with my starter. I am guessing it is too close to the flywheel and getting stuck when trying to turn over. Not sure if anyone has ran into this before. I am thinking about making a shim to see if it would help if the starter went back a little bit. I don't see or can think of a good way to move the starter to the side for more clearance.

 

[young99]

I went round 2 with the starter today. I pulled the starter back from the flywheel and hit the key just to make sure it spun. Unfortunately it just clicked with no movement. I am thinking I have something wired wrong in the engine bay. I upgraded the distributor recently to a pertronix in hopes to bypass the resistor. I may have to go back to using the resister to see if that was the problem.

 

[D575]

I had similar symptoms a while back, turned out the knock off battery cable I bought on Ebay wasn't crimped well enough. Looked totally fine from the outside.. Of course I found that out after removing my starter..

 

[Don selleck]

I had similar symptoms a while back, turned out the knock off battery cable I bought on Ebay wasn't crimped well enough. Looked totally fine from the outside.. Of course I found that out after removing my starter..

I had same problem took me 2 hrs. to figure it out.

 

[young99]

I had similar symptoms a while back, turned out the knock off battery cable I bought on Ebay wasn't crimped well enough. Looked totally fine from the outside.. Of course I found that out after removing my starter..

I will definitely check this out today.

 

[young99]

I had similar symptoms a while back, turned out the knock off battery cable I bought on Ebay wasn't crimped well enough. Looked totally fine from the outside.. Of course I found that out after removing my starter..

I pulled my cables off the starter and checked them they looked fine and were holding tight. I created my own using welding wire and brass ends. I used a crimping tool which crimps them with a hammer.

I am going back through my wiring to see if something is wrong. I think the starter may just be bad even though it has never ran. I will be pulling it off today and will take it to have it bench tested. Unfortunatly I am working on this by myself so I cant hit the key and check the starter voltage at the same tim.

I am getting little over 12 volts at my starter relay. I tried jumping from the starter relay and does the same clicking.

The only thing really new was adding a pertronix billet distributor which is run black to negative coil and red to positive coil.

 

[Yatzee]

When I first got my car (383/727 combo) there was a shim between the engine housing for the starter and the starter. I can only suppose that it kept the drive on the starter from going a bit too deep. The starter was a beast and weighed about 15 lbs. I substituted a mini Bosch rebuild and left the shim out - no problems in 3 years. Not sure of your situation but either you have a starter alignment issue or a worn out/ poorly rebuilt unit. Either that or the teeth on your your ring gear are damaged so there is not enough room for the bendix drive to engage the ring gear. On the distributor issue there are two companies that make coils that do not require a ballast resistor present. Mallory is one and the other I believe is actually Pertronics or MSD. Back to the starter, Remove it and test it's operation on the shop floor or workbench.

 

[Cranky]

I went round 2 with the starter today. I pulled the starter back from the flywheel and hit the key just to make sure it spun. Unfortunately it just clicked with no movement. I am thinking I have something wired wrong in the engine bay. I upgraded the distributor recently to a pertronix in hopes to bypass the resistor. I may have to go back to using the resister to see if that was the problem.

Don't see anything with the ignition system that would affect the starter circuit. The job of the ballast is to reduce the voltage to the ignition system once the key is released to the on position when the starter is no longer needed. In the start position, the ballast allows full flow of voltage to the ignition system since the starter is robbing so much when it's running.

 

[D575]

I am working my way through a 727 to a833 swap and noticed an issue with my starter. I am guessing it is too close to the flywheel and getting stuck when trying to turn over. Not sure if anyone has ran into this before. I am thinking about making a shim to see if it would help if the starter went back a little bit. I don't see or can think of a good way to move the starter to the side for more clearance.

What was the problem ? We need an update

 

[TxDon]

I'd also like to hear how this came out because I'm having a similar problem on my car. It had been starting great then on morning I turned the key and nothing - no click, nothing at all. I first assumed it was an electrical issue, checked the battery, looked for loose wires, etc. - everything was ok. Then I remembered something like this on a car I had many years ago with a stick shift. I put the trans in gear and rocked the car back and forth a little - turned the key and it started like normal! My concern is now it has happened two more times so I don't know if the car will turn over or not. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so what did you do to fix it?

 

[young99]

Sorry for the delayed response. The issue I was having was a bad starter. Even though it was a new starter it had some type of electrical problem. It was even causing bad ground through the car.after reading on the forums I replaced it with a 90's Dakota starter. Fit just fine and after I got the starter teeth and flywheel lined up it started with no problems.