Starting woes

[egrand1508]

I can't find again where I read this, but I think in the limp mode (or as Chrysler called it "Limp-in" mode) the computer will just give around 10 degrees or so of advance and leave it there at all engine speeds. The Lean Burn distributors don't have any weights for centrifugal advance. 10 or so degrees is fine to start and idle, but is way to little for driving around, which causes bad performance.

I just found out that MyMopar.com has been putting the old Service Tech films on Youtube and here is a link to one on Lean Burn: http://youtu.be/So21Dn7jpWU If you watch this you'll see why most people give up on it.

If you do replace the Lean Burn, you might have to replace the carb too. The new distributor needs a vacuum port on the carb, and the Lean Burn carbs eliminated that port.

Good Luck!

 

[guitarguy]

Had this Chrysler computer crap, leaky old carb etc. on a 79 - put on a used Edelbrock 600 (a bit hairy getting the kickdown/pressure lever properly adjusted but that's just part of owning a Mopar), and a Jeg's MP-style elec. ignition conversion kit with distributor. Car ran like holy hell before on & off, all kinds of problems, very random. After? Drove it to Florida and back to TX, Kansas, driven weekly for 2 years. 20,000 trouble free miles. Just do it or you'll be chasing crap around and spending what you may be saving... in tow fees. We love these cars but remember they're late 70s Chrysler products, I try not to be blinded by my love for them. The parts of them that are crap are crap and can fail at any time with few quick fixes. That lean burn craps out, it's not a side of the road fix. S-can it, that's my vote.

Get a used cast iron 4bbl manifold, they're everywhere - dirt cheap - and the same height as the 2bbl (aftermarket aluminum ones I have are taller, messes with the linkages further). Eddy carbs are everywhere. Good luck, great car!

 

[deedohaw]

Okay... finally sorted! It was a fuel pump on its last legs. Put in a new one and car started right up and runs reasonably well. Just had it out for a 1/2 hour drive. Discovered the rear tires rub over bumps. Rear springs are pretty sagged. Looks like he'll be going for new springs (with an extra leaf?) next.... or smaller/narrower wheels and tires!
David

 

[1toolguy]

I had my springs re-arched for about half the cost of new ones.

 

[deedohaw]

I had my springs re-arched for about half the cost of new ones.

Good point. We had forgotten about that trick.
Thanx Toolguy!

 

[CarKnockerJim]

Okay... finally sorted! It was a fuel pump on its last legs. Put in a new one and car started right up and runs reasonably well. Just had it out for a 1/2 hour drive. Discovered the rear tires rub over bumps. Rear springs are pretty sagged. Looks like he'll be going for new springs (with an extra leaf?) next.... or smaller/narrower wheels and tires!
David

I would still get rid of the lean burn, if its not causing trouble now it will!!

 

[deedohaw]

Yes Michael does want to get rid of the Leanburn... he wants to get a 4 bbl setup with appropriate manifold, distributor etc. He'll be saving up and hopes to gather the pieces during the Winter so it can be properly ready for next year.
This year he just wants to be able to put a few miles on it as is.
His next handful of cash looks like it will have to go into stopping the rear tires from rubbing!
David

 

[egrand1508]

Another idea: I went with a set of Gabriel Load Carrier shocks in the rear. Those are the ones with the coil spring over the shock. It added about 1.5 inches in height and no rubbing.

 

[1toolguy]

The only problem with the load carrier shocks is the upper mount may not be able to handle the extra stress.

 

[egrand1508]

They sure seem beefy enough to me. I know they changed shock styles in 1977, so maybe they changed the mounts too. My 77 mounts right in the center of the rear cross member channel and the bolt goes through one side of the cross member, through a steel sleeve in the eye of the upper mount, and out the other side of the cross member. Gabriel specifically lists shock number 43138 for 77 and up B, R, M, and J body cars. Anyway, it all seems more solid than the leaf spring rear shackle mounts, which are a problem spot for these cars.

Besides, the Load Carrier shocks don't carry that much extra weight, maybe a couple hundred pounds. Just enough to let the leaves return to the normal shape.

 

[Jonnyuma]

If the crossmember isn't all rusted to hell it can easily handle the little bit of extra weight. All of the horror stories related to me about tearing the *** out of a Cordoba by using air shocks or similar devices have had the common thread of rust. If the x-member is solid and you don't drive it around with a ton or more of **** in the trunk it'll hold up just fine under regular usage. I use air shocks on mine...they only support the car for an inch or so before the leaves take over. I've considered beefing up the upper shock mounts but when I went underneath to plan out what I needed to do I saw that after several years of driving it as-is there was no need for any extra beef.

 

[deedohaw]

Almost had a pair of springs from a reasonably local car that sat too high to suit the owner. They would likely have worked with Michael's big Cragars. Unfortunately one of the mains was cracked at the knuckle. :icon_confused:
For now he is putting on a scruffy pair of Cordoba 300 rims and tires so at least he can drive it a bit this year!
David

 

[bigredbird]

Yes Michael does want to get rid of the Leanburn... he wants to get a 4 bbl setup with appropriate manifold, distributor etc.

I've got an Edelbrock 4bbl manifold for a 360 sitting on a shelf in my garage. PM me if you're interested and we can see how impossible it might be to get it across the Detroit River affordably. :eusa_whistle:

 

[deedohaw]

Bigredbird and I are working on getting that Edelbrock manifold and Michael's Cordoba together.
Now, a rebuilt 750 cfm Quadrajet carb has become available for a very good price... and it's only 5 minutes away! It was previously on a basically stock Chev 350.
I believe this carb should work on Michael's 360 with little or no mods.
Confirmation and comments welcome please.
Thanks, David

 

[ArtH]

If it was set up for a GM car, you will need to get a throttle and kick down kit. I think Edelbrock sells them or you can find them on Ebay. I had to do that for the Edelbrock Performer carb I ended up using.

 

[deedohaw]

Well Michael finally got some new rear springs for the car, but we likely won't get around to installing them 'til the Fall. He can drive it with the narrower 300 rims on it for now still.
David

 

[sherod]

As to the 2bbl OEM, Holley Custom shop in Bowling Green KY rebuilt mine to new specs. Didn't have to touch a thing, just bolted it on and drove away. No hesitation, no cough...Cost was $360 shipped to them and picked up in their shop. I doubted the lean burn, but no issues as of yet...