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stealth heads

cwhubb

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Well after a lot of vacillating on the USA vs china theme I went to 440 source website, saw they had bare stealth heads available and pulled the trigger on a set. I would have had to replace the springs anyway so I'm doing a total USA valve train, I can once again hold my head high
 
sounds like they've made the effort to correct there issues. i'm sure you'll be fine. what's your combo that there going on?
 
Well after a lot of vacillating on the USA vs china theme I went to 440 source website, saw they had bare stealth heads available and pulled the trigger on a set. I would have had to replace the springs anyway so I'm doing a total USA valve train, I can once again hold my head high

Great Choice!
 
Well after a lot of vacillating on the USA vs china theme I went to 440 source website, saw they had bare stealth heads available and pulled the trigger on a set. I would have had to replace the springs anyway so I'm doing a total USA valve train, I can once again hold my head high

Nice work! You know I bought the Mopar performance heads (Edelbrock) and still ended up buying valve springs, keepers, etc. I think building up the head from bare is probably better anyway. You'll be doing some machining for valves, seats, etc. anyway, and the machinist will/would take care of anything that's not perfect anyway. I did Crower springs and keepers, Comp Super Magnum rockers, Smith Brothers pushrods. The only thing you'll have to buy that I didn't is the valves...

I say you have earned the right to paint them Mopar orange!
 
I think they are cast for the bigger diameter springs but I'm not 100% sure on that, they fixed the problem the stealths were having with the cheesey retainers and locks, they come with the guides installed for 11/32 valve stems. I already had a set of hughes engines 1106 double springs sitting on a shelf, I'm planning on running the MP solid cam 557 lift, I really don't trust the springs that come with the heads.
the combo I'm putting together is
440 10:5:1cr
242 @ 50, 557 lift 296 adv duration straight profile solid MP cam
crane ductile adjustable 1.5 rockers
rpm performer intake that's been port matched to an inch depth, with blended runner to plenum work
950hp holley
it's got a 727 b&m manual shift reverse valved tranny
4:10 dana
headers going into a full 3 inch exhaust with flowmaster big block 70 series mufflers
245/40/17 front tires
275/40/17 rears both 25.7 inch diameters
70 charger.
 
Are you sure on that duration for the MP .557 cam? Everything I've seen online has it anywhere from 252 to 256 @ .050. Anyway, sounds like a nice combo that will really rip.
 
I was off on the duration, it's 252

it should run like a beast when it's done
 
heads look great, they removed the flash/slag from casting add the valve train and it's good to go
 
thats cool! I ordered a set yesterday for my 505 i'm putting together. i'll be posting before and after picts of the port work.
 
I ordered a set 2 years ago and ported them and they worked out pretty good. I did replace everything except the valves.
 
@70rr I think you'll like them, I'd like to see the before and after, I'll have to wait till spring to port mine, one piece at a time for me.
Beep, what combo did you run with the heads and what did they flow at 600?
 
I got em...I like em...And the price was right. Stock out of the box too. I didn't do the 10 degree keepers and lock swap as I was well below the max lift they are rated for right OOTB. Right now, my 66 Ply Sat 383 is running really nicely but I may swap at a later date. It's all relative really when it comes to heads. Most stock heads can be reworked for a modest cost and improve the performance. The newer after market Aluminum heads are great in their own right. That being said, it all boils down to what one wants to spend on their builds. $900.00 for a brand new set is really likeable in this economy...My 2 Cents...cr8crshr/Tuck
 
Cr8 very nice, your cars sounds like a beauty, aluminum is cheaper to rework so if you want to tweak later on it's a win win,

did you have to use special bolts or gaskets? how about longer reach plugs?
 
CW...Yes on the plugs as I followed 440 Source's recommendation. I am running HP Exhaust Manifolds over Headers so there would have been interference with the plugs/manifolds in getting a plug wrench to them. As for gaskets, I was going to use the steel shim .022 thickness but opted for the standard blue Fel Pro from their kit. Compression ratio is 9.3 static/9.7 compressed so I am pleased with how the engine turned out. Got a couple of more blocks...383 and a 440 that will be built using the 440 Source heads at a later date...
 
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CW...Yes on the plugs as I followed 440 Source's recommendation. I am running HP Exhaust Manifolds over Headers so there would have been interference with the plugs/manifolds in getting a plug wrench to them. As for gaskets, I was going to use the steel shim .022 thickness but opted for the standard blue Fel Pro from their kit. Compression ratio is 9.3 static/9.3 compressed so I am pleased with how the engine turned out. Got a couple of more blocks...383 and a 440 that will be built using the 440 Source heads at a later date...

What are you going to put the extra 383 and 440 in crusher?
 
nice!, plugs are a bitch with headers, I have to use a box wrench on the plug socket on some, the ratchet is too thick, two on the passenger side are easier if I'm under the car. lol joys of a 440
 
I got em...I like em...And the price was right. Stock out of the box too. I didn't do the 10 degree keepers and lock swap as I was well below the max lift they are rated for right OOTB. Right now, my 66 Ply Sat 383 is running really nicely but I may swap at a later date. It's all relative really when it comes to heads. Most stock heads can be reworked for a modest cost and improve the performance. The newer after market Aluminum heads are great in their own right. That being said, it all boils down to what one wants to spend on their builds. $900.00 for a brand new set is really likeable in this economy...My 2 Cents...cr8crshr/Tuck

cr8crshr,
I used the same type analogy when I purchased my Stealth heads. I could have spent close to the number freshening up my cast iron heads or lose weight and gain flow almost the same cost. My 440/512 will breath a little better now.
 
What are you going to put the extra 383 and 440 in crusher?

The 383 was my first motor for my 66 Sat project that had an awful knocking sound when it first was running. I got a short block 383 and swapped out parts from the first to the second and now have a great running car. The first 383 is in good shape but right now my plans are to, 1. keep it and eventually make it into a stroker using 440 Source supplied parts, or 2. restore it back to its original state with extra parts I have. Block is 30 over and crank is .20/.20. I had a rod issue with it so I have a replacement set of rods and will swap out them with the old, Pistons are basically new with maybe 45 minutes run time. Just a project to play with mostly as I don't have another project and don't plan on another. The 440 was a freebie. Has a cast crank and I have a set of LY rods for it. It is at the machinist being checked out. The cylinder bores as well as the block are really rusted so right now I don't know if it is salvageable or not. Free is good but it is in rough condition. Should find out this Friday it it is a keeper or I scrap it....
 
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