Stealth HEI

[Cheapsunglasses]

I tried messing with it, the Texas heat makes it hard to do anything, but I got the wires swapped, and I made sure the gap was correct. I’m pretty sure it’s just my timing waaay off, so if it cools down a bit this evening I’ll look into that.

Thanks everyone for your help, y’all are great, and for you @Geoff 2 ,

¡ⅎⅎoǝ⅁ sʞuɐɥꓕ

 

[Canadian1968]

I tired this last year. I kept having intermittent stalling problems. Always once the car was warmed up and it would start to miss fire and then stall. But would always fire right back up. It would run great until the misses started. Really weird. I tried 2 HEI modules and 2 coils ( I used summit brand ) but couldn't figure it . Ended up back with my orange ecu setup. Which works perfectly , the HEI was simply something to try out. It was the low cost and ease to switch between the two that caught my attention!

Good luck .

Ps. Do you have a ground running to the case of the ecu box ?

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I tired this last year. I kept having intermittent stalling problems. Always once the car was warmed up and it would start to miss fire and then stall. But would always fire right back up. It would run great until the misses started. Really weird. I tried 2 HEI modules and 2 coils ( I used summit brand ) but couldn't figure it . Ended up back with my orange ecu setup. Which works perfectly , the HEI was simply something to try out. It was the low cost and ease to switch between the two that caught my attention!

Good luck .

Ps. Do you have a ground running to the case of the ecu box ?

Thanks! Yes I do, I keep forgetting to take more pictures when I’m working on it.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I haven’t given an update on this thread because I’ve been battling issues. I’m not going to bash HEI, I’m not going to bash Chrysler Electronic ignition. I’m simply stating I couldn’t get it to work for me. I tested the HEI box on 2 different factory electronic ignition cars and it worked. So I installed it, no matter which way I wired the distributor leads it ran like garbage. No matter how many times I adjusted the timing it ran like garbage. Then I was getting a no spark at the coil issue. So I tried a different coil and a different distributor, and I tried an Oreillys electronic box, and I pulled a box off my other vehicle with electronic ignition, that I know for a fact works, nothing. I spent a lot of time on this forum looking up how things are suppose to work, and how many volts and ohms and where, and no matter what, it wouldn’t run, no spark. So I just dropped in my Mallory dual point I use as a back up in, as soon as I bumped the key, it fired up and idled. So for now I give up on it. Don’t let my failure discourage you, if you want a stealth HEI try this out, and I hope it works for you.

 

[Geoff 2]

Cheap,
???? Both HEI & Mopar ECUs are inherently reliable so the fact that both failed is puzzling.
You refer to the HEI 'box'? Which box? If we are talking about GM HEI, there are only modules, 4 pin, 5 pin & I think 8 pin. Don't give up!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Geoff, I’m sorry if I wasn’t clear, I’m using a 4 pin HEI, and I know it’s good, I can put it on my 78 Lil Red Express truck ( only vehicle I have with electronic ignition,) and it’ll work. I can also take the factory ignition box off the Lil red, and put it in place of the HEI on the GTX, and it doesn’t work, but works fine on the Lil Red.

I know my coil is good, because it’ll fire the points distributor. Based on everything I’ve found to check, my distributor checks out too.

I’m not totally giving up on it, I’m just putting it on hold for now. I haven’t had this car out since April, and I just want to blast my favorite 8 tracks, and go hang out at a hamburger stand.

 

[Don Frelier]

Cheap,
???? Both HEI & Mopar ECUs are inherently reliable so the fact that both failed is puzzling.
You refer to the HEI 'box'? Which box? If we are talking about GM HEI, there are only modules, 4 pin, 5 pin & I think 8 pin. Don't give up!

Well neither will work if they don't get a proper signal from the distributor. A good test is to place the coil wire 1/4" away from a good ground and with the distributor loose spin the shaft with your fingers in the start and run position. I disable the starter relay to do the start position check. Of course the normal starting battery voltage drop will not occur in this case but it is a good system check.

The spark should be blue/white and crisp. If it's yellow and lazy something is wrong.

Perhaps 1wildrt's comment about signal strength or amplitude is applicable here. But it should work with the Chrysler ECU. Did you check the reluctor gap?

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Well neither will work if they don't get a proper signal from the distributor. A good test is to place the coil wire 1/4" away from a good ground and with the distributor loose spin the shaft with your fingers in the start and run position. I disable the starter relay to do the start position check. Of course the normal starting battery voltage drop will not occur in this case but it is a good system check.

The spark should be blue/white and crisp. If it's yellow and lazy something is wrong.

Perhaps 1wildrt's comment about signal strength or amplitude is applicable here. But it should work with the Chrysler ECU. Did you check the reluctor gap?

Don, I’ve pulled the coil wire off and absolutely nothing happens. I’m using one of Rick Ehrenbergs “blueprinted” distributors. The reluctor gap is .008, which is what I believe to be correct, going off of the old Chrysler tech videos.

 

[Don Frelier]

Don, I’ve pulled the coil wire off and absolutely nothing happens. I’m using one of Rick Ehrenbergs “blueprinted” distributors. The reluctor gap is .008, which is what I believe to be correct, going off of the old Chrysler tech videos.

The pickup coil resistance is within spec? 350-550 ohms.

This webiste gives a thorough test procedure for the Chrysler setup:

Dave's Place - Chrysler Electronic Ignition System Test

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

The pickup coil resistance is within spec? 350-550 ohms.

This webiste gives a thorough test procedure for the Chrysler setup:

Dave's Place - Chrysler Electronic Ignition System Test

It has 480 ohms

Thanks for another website to read, maybe I’ll find my answers there .