• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

STEEL MOTOR MOUNT INSTALL QUESTIONS ?

Mike Gaines

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:11 PM
Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Messages
2,101
Reaction score
4,339
Location
Ahwahnee, (Fresno) California
With a transbrake I am highly advised to change out my stock rubber insulated Motor Mounts to Moroso Solid Steel Motor Mounts. ( I do have a Mancini Torque Strap but I am told that is not enuf and that launching off the Trans Brake at 4000rpm could torque the motor enuf to blow the rubber mounts.)
Your Thoughts or experience Please... Thanks, Mike

Also I wonder if I would have enuf room to remove the stock rubber mounts and install the steel motor mounts merely by jacking up the motor until the trans hits the firewall and runs out of room to jack the motor any higher....I don't think there would enuf room to get the rubber ones out and replace them with the steel ones....any experience with this by any of our members....thanks again
 
I run a Moroso steel mount on the driver side and a stock rubber mount on the passenger. Been that way for years, street and strip driven, no problems. Obviously I'm not making as much steam as you Mike, but it's a pretty simple part that has worked well for me. With a brake, I'd probably also run a strap as not to put all the forces on the mount area.

IIRC, I swapped it in for the stock mount with the motor in the car as you describe. It's been a number of years now, but I don't remember any real issue with it. I'd be surprised if you run into problems with the motor in the car.

Good luck.
 
Mike the passenger side should be pretty easy to do. The drivers side is a little tighter as you have the oil pump and steering box there. It can be done but its not fun.
 
I run a Moroso steel mount on the driver side and a stock rubber mount on the passenger. Been that way for years, street and strip driven, no problems. Obviously I'm not making as much steam as you Mike, but it's a pretty simple part that has worked well for me. With a brake, I'd probably also run a strap as not to put all the forces on the mount area.

IIRC, I swapped it in for the stock mount with the motor in the car as you describe. It's been a number of years now, but I don't remember any real issue with it. I'd be surprised if you run into problems with the motor in the car.

Good luck.
I'm running the same thing, solid on the driver side only 10+ years now. If I recall I only jacked up the driver side to change it out. Not easy but doable.
 
It would be great if someone would chime in that has removed the rubber motor mounts and installed the steel motor mounts not that long ago so that they might remember FOR SURE that it can be done with the main motor mount bolts removed and the motor being jacked up as far as it will go until the trans hits the firewall.
Thanks, Mike
 
Sorry Mike haven't done it in the car, mine are going in with the motor. Can you drop the headers out of the car to get better access?
 
mounts/brackets can be changed by raising the engine; done it several times. i'd think that a solid on the driver side would be sufficent; it takes all the torque.
 
With a brake why not do both sides. I'm not sure why people are paranoid to run solid mounts. I run solid mounts on both sides of my runner (and dart) Not a big deal at all, and the runner is my driver. I don't feel any annoying vibrations in the least. Now if the motor was all out of balance it may be a different story.. lol

Pretty easy to change on the car, I just went through this when I adjusted mine. I Pulled the radiator, alt, and fan. Gave me room to cherry pick the motor up to pull the mounts.

IMG_0136.JPG
 
With a brake why not do both sides. I'm not sure why people are paranoid to run solid mounts. I run solid mounts on both sides of my runner (and dart) Not a big deal at all, and the runner is my driver. I don't feel any annoying vibrations in the least. Now if the motor was all out of balance it may be a different story.. lol

Pretty easy to change on the car, I just went through this when I adjusted mine. I Pulled the radiator, alt, and fan. Gave me room to cherry pick the motor up to pull the mounts.

View attachment 409251

I'm going to do the same. You still run a rubber trans mount?
 
Eventually you'll change to one of these. It's much better...

IMG_1940.JPG
 
it's my understanding that running all three mounts solid can break the trans tail housing.
 
it's my understanding that running all three mounts solid can break the trans tail housing.
I ran Moroso solid mounts and a poly trans mount for years with no breakage.
I did have issues with the Moroso mounts not keeping the engine properly aligned straight.
Put the motor plate in continued to use the poly mount and issue resolved.
New car had motor and mid plate. PITA to remove and install headers, starter but NOTHING moves around with that setup. Also poly trans mount with no issues.
 
Heard there is also some physics involved when you run motor and mid plates that helps the car 60 foot harder etc etc not sure could be ls wise tail
 
it's my understanding that running all three mounts solid can break the trans tail housing.

I recall that being the thinking in the mid '70's when I put steel mounts in my '65 Coronet & kept a new stock rubber trans mount. But my tube car had motor plate, mid plate & trans solid bolted to the trans X member. No broken tailshafts in the Coronet approximately 3000 runs or 1500 in the tube car. New motor & trans going in the Satellite with Moroso steel mounts w/ poly trans mount.
 
I ran the steel motor mounts on the street with some track. It was the only way to keep mounts in the car. Plus the car handled better.
 
Mike I also run a solid steel mount on the drivers side and the stock rubber mount on the pass side. I changed this drivers mount to the solid mount with the eng in the car. I just unhooked my back-up chain and then jacked the drivers side of the eng up with a jack and block of wood on the oil pan. It was no problem for me as the eng jacked up enough for me to sneak the old rubber mount out and put the solid one in. I have been running this solid mount for about 6 years. I had the chain on before I ran the solid mount so I left it on. I also run a standard rubber trans mount and this setup has worked good for the last 6 years for me. Course I dont run a trans brake like you and I only race once or twice a year. Ron

413061043.jpg


413061043.jpg
 
Last edited:
413061043.jpg
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top