Steering wheel 90 degrees off to the the left after centering all steering components

[kens71]

Thanks 1 Wild R/T.

We have been listening to everybody posts and checking their recommendations against what we have now. The concern is, in the current configuration turning the steering wheel 90 degrees to level it puts the gearbox shaft off its center. I've checked gear box master spline. It is at 12 o'clock with the coupler at 12 o'clock. The master spline for the steering wheel hub is 90 degrees to the left. In this configuration, the steering center gear slop mentioned is there. I also have 1 3/4 turns of the steering wheel both to left and to right from this center position. Car drives and tracks fine.

Contacted Norms Speed Shop in NC who refurbishes these shafts and he states the master spline in the coupler and the end of the steering shaft for the steering wheel hub are aligned to each other. The fact that I have a 90 degree offset is pointing to maybe an earlier years steering shaft where the coupler position, which is dictated by the hole in the shaft might not have had a master spline on the steering gear or in the earlier coupler.

I plan to pull the steering column in the next week or so to see what's in there.
We'll let you know what we find!!!

 

[dadsbee]

Ya.. would be a hard deal as it only has THREE teeth, but something is certainly together wrong since he's never had equal left to right.

I'm guessing a partial turn on the reciprocating ball when it was assembled, but been 8 years since I did mine so throw me out if I'm wrong.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Three, Five.. Something like that... It's been twenty five years since I did mine... I agree somethings not right...

 

[mopar jack]

I had a similar problem running a fast ratio pitman arm. The spines were off 1 notch and the steering wheel would be way off center.

 

[hunt2elk]

Contacted Norms Speed Shop in NC who refurbishes these shafts and he states the master spline in the coupler and the end of the steering shaft for the steering wheel hub are aligned to each other. The fact that I have a 90 degree offset is pointing to maybe an earlier years steering shaft where the coupler position, which is dictated by the hole in the shaft might not have had a master spline on the steering gear or in the earlier coupler.

I am leaning towards this being your issue. Just seems like if the steering box was put together with a tooth off, you would be having more problems than just being 90 degrees off at the steering wheel.

 

[toolmanmike]

Have a weird alignment issue with the 1971 GTX. When I bought it the steering wheel lock was 2 turns to the left and lock 1.5 turns to the right with uneven tie rod ends but the steering wheel was centered perfectly. This week I replaced all the front end components with Mancini and Moog parts. Pittman arm is keyed and is aligned parallel front to back with the frame. Steering column is keyed to the steering shaft so it only can go on one way. Steering wheel hub is keyed to the steering shaft so it only goes on one way. I get 1 3/4 turn from neutral center of the steering wheel lock to lock so I know we’re centered yet the steering wheel is sitting 90 degrees to the left. See pics. Can’t figure it out unless the steering box was rebuilt and not clocked correctly. Thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone

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@Scott Engelhardt What do you think?

 

[58belvedere]

Could the Pitman arm be off 90 degrees? Is there 4 master splines on the arm/steering box output shaft?

 

[YY1]

I had a very similar issue with my 70 Bee.
I bandaided it by bending the tang over on the tuff wheel can and rotating the wheel to the next holes.

About a year later, I decided to try moving the tie rod ends as @toolmanmike suggested way back on page one- turn the sleeves the same amount, the same way.

What do you know, it worked.

I'd try it, but watch to see if it's making one side of the exposed threads way longer than the other.
I thought sure that would happen to mine because the wheel was so far off, but it didn't.

 

[69_A12_6BBL]

If everything is safe and works fine, why not cut another slot in the steering wheel in a location that allows the wheel to be straight?
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That's what I'd do

 

[mrmolding]

With the wheel centered, you need to shorten one tie rod assembly and lengthen the other side. You will need to figure out which way to go by how the tires are pointed. Recheck the toe in when you are done. This is how the alignment shops center steering wheels.

I'm not an expert on any of this, but I do know how off tie rods can make your steering wheel with just a little incorrect adjustment. I went through this last year when a shop screwed up my toe in. I bought a cheapo toe in tool from Amazon, adjusted the rods and all well in 30 minutes. The correct setting did not wind up with equal length tie rods as I'd thought, but a few members here said that's fine. I actually got a rebuilt column from Norms as well.

 

[MOPLUM345]

Have a weird alignment issue with the 1971 GTX. When I bought it the steering wheel lock was 2 turns to the left and lock 1.5 turns to the right with uneven tie rod ends but the steering wheel was centered perfectly. This week I replaced all the front end components with Mancini and Moog parts. Pittman arm is keyed and is aligned parallel front to back with the frame. Steering column is keyed to the steering shaft so it only can go on one way. Steering wheel hub is keyed to the steering shaft so it only goes on one way. I get 1 3/4 turn from neutral center of the steering wheel lock to lock so I know we’re centered yet the steering wheel is sitting 90 degrees to the left. See pics. Can’t figure it out unless the steering box was rebuilt and not clocked correctly. Thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone

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You must center your steering wheel first, and lock in position with any means that will hold it there. By centering the wheel that also means the centering of the steering gear box. You can feel when it auto centers itself. The valveing in the box is spring loaded. Your wheel will be centered too if you have the splines correct on the shaft connector. It has a blank spline so you should not have it wrong. Once the gearbox is centered, steering wheel locked in place. Then you do your wheel alignment.

 

[Scott Engelhardt]

I have been reading through this thread. I see lots of great answers and ideas. It has been years since I have rebuilt a Mopar steering box. I do know if you get 1.75 turns in each directions and your pitman arm is straight with a centered steering wheel, I would guess it is assembled properly. Some one mentioned locking the steering wheel centered, then assemble the tie rods and center link. That is how I used to do it all the time as an alignment tech. I do not know if this was mentioned or not, but it only takes small adjustment at the tie rods to make big steering wheel changes. If you have everything centered and tie rods at equal lengths you can adjust your toe equally. If you are using a tape measure to set toe you need to scribe your tires that will give you accurate toe. You know I have done this fix 100 times or more, you would think I would be able to explain it better.

 

[pnora]

The camber and caster need to be in range before worrying about the toe. He said he just put it together with all new parts. I have seen guys get the toe in range and then put it on the rack and set the caster and camber only finding out the toe ends up being set back to where it was. Camber makes a big change on toe as well as caster.

 

[Jam72]

My first thought is that re-adjustments of the effective tie rod lengths will fix it.

 

[Scott Engelhardt]

Once his steering wheel is corrected any toe changes affected by caster and camber will be easily adjusted out.
One thing some people forget is that if toe is too far off you will never get the correct caster readings. Caster is measured by the amount of camber roll in a 20degree sweep, so if you have too much toe, too little toe, or if your toe out on turns is wrong, your caster angle will not be measured properly. It is always good to have the toe close before making any caster measurements.

 

[kens71]

I pulled the steering column shaft out today and marked it up and took pics. My understanding is that the locate spline for the steering wheel should align with the the locate spline in the coupler that attaches to the locate spline on the steering box. my shaft has the hole for the coupler components 90 degrees to the align mark on the steering column shaft. To make the coupler correct, the hole should be vertical to the locate spline mark. Don't know what we have here but it isn't right.

Should go on the shaft so the detent on the coupler aligns with the locate spline on the shaft

Should fit on the shaft like this but you can see the coupler internal parts don't line up to make it fit.

This is how it is sitting 90 degrees to the locate spline

In this configuration, the coupler can be assembled but its 90 degrees out.

 

[pnora]

I pulled the steering column shaft out today and marked it up and took pics. My understanding is that the locate spline for the steering wheel should align with the the locate spline in the coupler that attaches to the locate spline on the steering box. my shaft has the hole for the coupler components 90 degrees to the align mark on the steering column shaft. To make the coupler correct, the hole should be vertical to the locate spline mark. Don't know what we have here but it isn't right.

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Someone may of shortened that shaft and drilled it wrong is my guess. Going from manual to power gear box column mods are needed. Weld it up and redrill or replace the shaft.

 

[kens71]

Thanks pnora. Ordered a rebuilt shaft from Norms Speed Shop in NC. Good to work with. Will let everyone know the results when i get it installed.

 

[kens71]

Installed the steering column shaft from Norm's Speed Shop. Alignment of the steering wheel is spot on. 1 3/4 turn from center both left and right. Positions of the front end components all to spec. Thanks all for the help.