Stock Radiator Fan or Electric Radiator Fans

[UncleAl]

I have a '69 Charger R/T with a 440 engine and the stock fan. There is currently no fan shroud and it has a 24 inch aftermarket aluminum radiator. This car will be for cruising around and going to and from shows. It originally had factory air, which is missing, but I intend to reinstall because being in my 70's and living in SC, I don't want to swelter in a car with a black vinyl top and black vinyl interior.
My question is, do I install the shroud on the factory radiator fan and keep the factory fan and deal with the loss in horsepower (HP), keeping in mind that I will be losing more HP when the AC is reinstalled, or lose the factory radiator fan and shroud and install electric radiator fans? By installing electric fans, I regain some of the HP I'll be losing from installing the AC, but can the cost of such a change be justified? Thoughts?

 

[dadsbee]

You don't think a highly loaded alternator, to run those fans, doesn't kill as much HP as running a factory water pump fan?

 

[ruffcut]

In is my theory that Ma Mopar had it figured out already, so why reinvent the wheel ie the cooling system. JMO

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Short answer is I do not know.
Long answer. My old 78 Chev did not overheat, even with a single core radiator. Hauling heavy loads, such as 110 bales of hay in the gooseneck trailer. Credit went to the shroud behind the radiator.
Fast forward. My 77 B200 camper van, is a bit under powered with the 318. It has a shroud for the fan, and a recently purchased old school radiator. I will be installing an electric powered fan and attaching it to the shroud. My thinking without getting scientific, is that most of the time, the fan will not be needed. I will turn it on when I see about 180F. What extra load the alternator may draw, is not being considered, as it is turning full time anyway, and supplying about 14.5 volts. Just in case, I will carry the original fan with me.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Shroud, good mechanical fan, thermal clutch drive unit, is as good as it gets, in my opinion.

 

[68-500]

Shroud and mechanical fan

 

[davek]

I dont understand why so many people want to change something that is not broke. Factory setup is the way to go. JMO

 

[eldubb440]

I dont understand why so many people want to change something that is not broke. Factory setup is the way to go. JMO

and why fret over a few un-noticeable horse power? .........

 

[davek]

and why fret over a few un-noticeable horse power? .........

Put headers on it and x pipe to cover the lost hp

 

[RJRENTON]

Short answer is I do not know.
Long answer. My old 78 Chev did not overheat, even with a single core radiator. Hauling heavy loads, such as 110 bales of hay in the gooseneck trailer. Credit went to the shroud behind the radiator.
Fast forward. My 77 B200 camper van, is a bit under powered with the 318. It has a shroud for the fan, and a recently purchased old school radiator. I will be installing an electric powered fan and attaching it to the shroud. My thinking without getting scientific, is that most of the time, the fan will not be needed. I will turn it on when I see about 180F. What extra load the alternator may draw, is not being considered, as it is turning full time anyway, and supplying about 14.5 volts. Just in case, I will carry the original fan with me.

The HP consumed by the alternator is dependent on the AMPERAGE produced not the voltage. Electric cooling fan(s) can consume, depending on brand, CFM ( cubic ft of air moved at a specific static pressure) 20 to 30 amps at 12 volts is not unreasonable.....then the alternator and wiring system will need upgraded. IMO.....Use a thermal drive clutch with a 7 blade fan and shroud, exactly what MOPAR intended when equipped with A/C......
BOB RENTON

 

[68BabyBlue]

I've had two completely stock GTXs with factory A/C. Worked perfectly on both with no maintenance issues. First one was still running on R12, never touched the system during seven years of ownership, never had an overheating problem. Current one converted to 134 when restored. Re-charged two years ago, nothing since. Initial overheating problem was solved when I had the original factory radiator re-cored. Original factory fan, clutch drive, and radiator shroud.

 

[Bird 426]

Don't let anyone talk you into electric fans.

 

[451Mopar]

I would at least try to stay with the factory mechanical fan with a radiator shroud. it is way simpler and less expensive.
Good quality electric cooling fans are expensive and pull a bunch of power which requires modification to the charging system.
Upgraded alternator and wiring, cooling fan relays and fuses, and a way to control the fan relays. A simple switch would work, but most people use sone type of thermostatically (or digitally) controlled switch. With EFI, the controller will control the fans and A/C clutch. A good stand alone fan controller is made by Dakota Digital: Dakota Digital PAC-2800BT Dakota Digital Electronic Fan Controllers with Bluetooth | Summit Racing

 

[davek]

Sometime I see that people get 1 fan then 2 fans then need a pusher fan. Just seems to be a PITA

 

[autoxcuda]

I dont understand why so many people want to change something that is not broke. Factory setup is the way to go. JMO

Cause those generic ill fitting aluminum radiators are cheap and look racey.

Original fan shrouds rarely fit and seal to these aftermarket radiators. So figure on from fabrication to get everything to seal. Including the radiator to the radiator support. Usually a big gap there too.